DIY-WB help (ain't working?)

[AnArKey]

The instructions on the website are a little confusing. They say I shouldn't have the car running unless the heater is warmed up. This correct? Other places say that if the sensor is too far down the exhaust stream, the sensor may not be able to stay heated. To me that says the sensor cannot reach full temp unless it is in the exhaust and the car running.

I am trying to test it off the car. When powered up I get 2.5V output and the sensor gets hot. BUT, the LED doesn't come on even after 5 minutes and the 2.5V never changes.

Something wrong or the heater just not getting the sensor hot enough? Should I just mount it in the downpipe and see if it warms up?

With the sensor disconnected shouldn't the LED come on after just 5-6 seconds of power on?

What about the CalR outs (J9,J10). In the picture of the assembled circuit, they are not used. This correct? Other places in the instructions give me the impression they should have wires that run to the sensor plug.

 

[terryk]

Yes, keep it heated or take it out. I know one guy is running it just ahead of the cat. On the bench during testing mine got extraordinarily hot so they exhaust heat shouldn't be needed.

If the power supply voltage isn't at least 13.8V or so, the LED won't come on. There is a slight hysterisis between the circuit going active and the LED coming on. I saw the same thing. Powered from the car, the LED comes on.

With the sensor disconnected, the LED won't come on since there is no current flowing in the heater circuit.

Sounds like it's working.

 

[turbodave231]

You can decrease sensor warmup time by adding resistors across R4, (I am going from memory here). If you are bench testing, put your battery charger on a spare battery to power the battery up to 13.8-14.0V.

take a butane lighter across the sensor and watch the output change!!

I put a bung in my THDP right after the turbo. I haven't tried the sensor in the car yet. Too many other things to do lately.

DR