Do we even need bottle warmers?

[Turbo__Tim]

A quick E-Mail to www.importpoweronline and the response I got back was that they were not needed as their kits work fine down to 80 PSI.

Is it true that the output of the system depends on the regulator, and not the regulator? I guess so that's prolly why they call it a regulator...

When I tried this system out last summer it ewas in 95* heat and it worked fine. Now I see people that want bottle warmers. Is this because nitrous bottles need this? Maybe we don't.

I can't wait 'till I an take my G/N back out this year. I had just gotten the 2 stage alchy hooked up, and tried the propane system one day and the computer freaked on me and sent the timing to 28* and wouldn't budge. I backed off the translator timing to make up for it (sorta worked) and went out to test the propane some more and..BAM! a little old lady ran a light, taking out the entire pasengers side.

By the time the car was back from the shop, and the timing issue resolved, winter was upon us here in New Jersey.

Anyway I had the IPO kit up to 23# psi, and it worked fine. Apparently Chris now has a low pressure warning light for $75 that can tell you when the pressure in the bottle is lower than the limits that you set.

I am going to E-Mail this thread to IPO. Perhaps he can prove to us, once and for all that the warmer isn't needed. I'm sure that he could provide links to his board that show this.

At this time I don't see the need for one. Maybe our cars with the larger displacement engine need something extra.

We shall see in a month or so, when the G/N is on the road.

I'll be integrating the 2 stage alchy system as well. From what I see here, and particularly on other boards, the 2 can work in tandem. Just use less alchy, maybe?

Hey IPO, show us the thread and picture where you made an adapter to use the small propane bottles. How many runs can you get out of a couple of these?

 

[import power on]

Hey Tim!

We have run our system in 115F+ in AZ and in 30F and lower in MD. Our systems run great at 80psi set on the regulator. Once in your car and the inside temp raises a bit even the small 5# tanks will still maintain 80PSI.

Other systems that run hogher PSI would be different. In colder temps the tank won't budge above 80-90psi. If you tuned the system in the summer for say 200psi you are now going to be pushing MUCH less propane with the tank pressure dropping to 80psi but the system tuned for 200psi.

Therefore for Year round Tune it and forget it it is best to tune for a tank pressure that you can acheive year round. That would be 80PSI. NO heaters needed.

I have had our VR4 out in 20F and it may have dropped to 70psi tank pressure. It was tuned in 115F temps and 80PSI tank pressure and needed no tuning for 20F. 30F I still see 80psi.

See our site for the new Dual Disposable Tank setup. http://www.importpoweronline.com/ Due to the lower sustainable pressure when open you have to inject it pre turbo so you lose a little of the cooling benefits. Although most benefits are from the octane not the temp drop.

The Low pressure warning light is pretty cool. It places a bright rel light on the dash and will light up when the tank drops below a user set PSI. Comes preset at 60psi since most use the system at 80psi. Much better than finding out you ran low by hearing the detonation you were trying to supress!

 

[EclipseTurbo]

I could not get my tank to keep the pressure at 80 PSI, after repeated runs the tank got colder than ambient and the pressure drops to 70 PSI. This is where I think a warmer would be really nice if you need to drive it hard.

 

[import power on]

What size tank? We run for an hour hitting propane and never get the tank cold enough to drop the pressure. I have even seen frost on the tank.

 

[EclipseTurbo]

Manchester 5# tank.
If your car had been sitting in the sun for a while, on a hot day you may be ok.

As you use the propane the pressure at the inlet drops, I do not consider a inlet of 85 PSI and outlet of 80 PSI enough pressure, there just isn't enough "room" to work with, and the logs confirm that.

Oh I installed a warmer today (I control it manually for now). Went out on a cold night with no fear of running low pressure. Running 110 inlet, 90 outlet. Best accessories so far, only cost $60. Before I was never able to get this kind of propane volume on a cold night like this.

 

[Two Lane]

Basic Qs

What are considered "ideal" inlet-outlet pressures?

What is the "acceptable" range for inlet-outlet pressures?

What is the smallest LP bottle/tank/cylinder (and its source) that can still maintain pressure sufficient for post-turbo injection, and can also be used with the Warning system and with available bottle warmers?

TIA!!

 

[Two Lane]

TTT

 

[EclipseTurbo]

Seems the general consensus is to start with 80 PSI outlet for most cars.

The inlet should be as high as possible so that when the outlet opens, you won't have a pressure drop. For example, 80 PSI outlet and 120 inlet will give very consistent injection. On a chilly day say 50F outside, you will not be able to get 120 inlet. You are most likely need the aid of a warmer.

This is why having a 2 gauge regulator is so nice because you can tell how much above 80 PSI is the inlet. With just the outlet reading you can't tell if it is 80/80 or 80/120. In the case of 80/80? The PSI can drop during a 5-6 second pull and causing a fuel delivery problem.

P.S. I have been running a nitrous warmer from DynoTune.org and it works great. It heats up in about 10 seconds, and will get your bottle up to pressure about 120 PSI in a few minutes. I left it on for 15 minutes and it was about 170 PSI. Of course I have a blow down tube that exits the car incase of OPD valve activation.

 

[Two Lane]

Thanks, Eclipse!!

Info very much appreciated!

 

[Two Lane]

TOUGH QUESTION

What is the smallest LP bottle/tank/cylinder (and its source) that can still maintain pressure sufficient for post-turbo injection, and can also be used with the Warning system and with available bottle warmers?

TIA!!

 

[import power on]

Re: TOUGH QUESTION

Originally posted by Two Lane
What is the smallest LP bottle/tank/cylinder (and its source) that can still maintain pressure sufficient for post-turbo injection, and can also be used with the Warning system and with available bottle warmers?

TIA!!

5#

We have a new Dual Disposable Tank setup but it needs to be injected pre turbo because it just don't have the balls to fight the high pressure of post turbo. Works great, just preturbo.

We maintian an 80PSI outlet down to 40F with no problem in a 5# tank. Have all winter. Once to 30F and below it starts to drop though. But hell, the air is so cold that in itself helps with detonation so running at 65psi propane is not a problem.

 

[Two Lane]

Info Very Appreciated!

Thanks IPO!