Drive Shaft

[Nasty 6]

Looking to upgrade my stock drive shaft with something stronger. Interested in:

• Denny's Drive Shaft
• Dynotech 3.5" Aluminum
• or something comparable

 

[Boost231]

I have a Denny's in one car and a inland Empire in the other both work just fine

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[et10sec]

i broke 2 aluminum driveshafts, went with denny steel .

 

[Nasty 6]

i broke 2 aluminum driveshafts, went with denny steel .

I've heard that before and have been leaning towards going with one of their driveshafts but damn if they aren't expensive. I was thinking about trying out a dynotech 3.5" aluminum and see how it does will 3 lbs launches from the 2 step. But I fear the joints won't handle it.

 

[et10sec]

broken driveshafts = broken transmissions, i know!! go with the steel,

 

[Turbo Keith]

So what ya'll are saying is stick with the stock drive shaft or is there any steel ones out there that weigh less than the stock ? Sorry OP to jump on your thread

 

[Nasty 6]

The stock drive shaft certainly isn't going to take hard launches which is the reason I'm seeking to upgrade. I'm leaning more into investing towards a Denny's drive shaft to be on the safe side. - Do it right the first time.

 

[Turbo Keith]

I do believe in doing it right the first time , I probably will never never be in the 10s so I'm probably safe with my stock one

 

[Boost231]

My inland empire 3.5 alum is rated at 1000hp if I recall right

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[Chuck Leeper]

We use PST,for all our drive shafts.
GREAT service, and decent prices.
Have a steel in my turbo LS car. Have run them in many street rods, & other Buicks.
HP is only part of the equation. A proper shaft choice also includes: application, max rpm, length, space available, transmission, etc. These factors enter into the choice of matls, diameter, wall thickness, etc.

 

[Nasty 6]

My inland empire 3.5 alum is rated at 1000hp if I recall right

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Are you running with aftermarket 1350 u-joints? Is your car running in the 10's? How many pounds of boost do you launch with? I'd be interested in this driveshaft but I'm a little concerned about the quality of the u-joints and yoke ends. The driveshaft may support 1000 horses but I'm not too sure about the ends. Please let me know your thoughts based off your car's horsepower, hard launches, etc.

 

[Boost231]

Are you running with aftermarket 1350 u-joints? Is your car running in the 10's? How many pounds of boost do you launch with? I'd be interested in this driveshaft but I'm a little concerned about the quality of the u-joints and yoke ends. The driveshaft may support 1000 horses but I'm not too sure about the ends. Please let me know your thoughts based off your car's horsepower, hard launches, etc.

Running 1350 u-joints.. car runs 9s.. 1.3* 60s not trying to hard. I had to switch out the slip yoke as it was twisting the splines. Went with a strange chromoly yoke and it's good now.

Car makes depending on boost setting right now 700 - 900ish

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[Nasty 6]

@Boost231 - Thanks for the response. I had a feeling you changed out the ends. Looks like I'll do the same by going with the 1350 u-joints.

 

[Eticket]

I may be selling my strange 3.5" chromoly. Make an offer? It's 51" on 1350 joints center to center.. was used in my car with 2004r and 8.5" rear with steel yoke in rear end. I have a steel slip yoke for 2004r trans also.

Has less than 100 mile and 10 1/4 mile passes on it... its SFI rated too with a sticker from strange.
Make offer?

 

[Nasty 6]

I may be selling my strange 3.5" chromoly. Make an offer? It's 51" on 1350 joints center to center.. was used in my car with 2004r and 8.5" rear with steel yoke in rear end. I have a steel slip yoke for 2004r trans also.

Has less than 100 mile and 10 1/4 mile passes on it... its SFI rated too with a sticker from strange.
Make offer?

Yes, I would be interested in your Strange Driveshaft. Do have any photos of it? Do you have the matching 1350 series transmission & rear end yoke? What's the reason why you removed it from your car?