dual feed ?

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Lee Thompson

New Member
Joined
May 24, 2001
Messages
3,184
Going to try dual feeding direct for the first time.
Leave lip seal out of direct drum
Plug center support bolt hole next to linkage
Remove center sealing ring on center support
Open feed hole in seperator plate
What about check balls in the case and VB? Do all these go back in? Thanks
 
Lee Thompson said:
That's what I'll be doing this afternoon.
BTW, you are up early.
never a dull moment. trying to get some stuff done before it gets to be 150 dec. outside!
 
Open feed hole in seperator plate [/QUOTE said:
If you're refering to the orifice next to the check ball for the third gear accumilator,you need to understand that this orifice is not there to slow down the oil going to the accumilator during a 2-3 shift. It's there to slow down the oil leaving the accumilator during a 3-2 down-shift. If you drill this hole too big,it will allow the band to grab the drum before the third clutch oil can exhaust. This will cause a bind during a 3-2 down-shift. The only way to help the servo kick the band off faster is to use a stronger servo return spring. I don't know where you would get one stronger than the stock Grand National spring. The only real way to solve the bind-up that dual feeding causes is to slow down the oil going to the third clutches with an orifice in the third-reverse passage between the center suport bolts. It will be the hole on the drivers side. I made an orifice from a 5/16 by 18 bolt. I then ran the tap up in that hole to make threads to accept the orifice.Start out at .120 and increase as needed.
 
Ttype6 said:
If you're refering to the orifice next to the check ball for the third gear accumilator,you need to understand that this orifice is not there to slow down the oil going to the accumilator during a 2-3 shift. It's there to slow down the oil leaving the accumilator during a 3-2 down-shift. If you drill this hole too big,it will allow the band to grab the drum before the third clutch oil can exhaust. This will cause a bind during a 3-2 down-shift. The only way to help the servo kick the band off faster is to use a stronger servo return spring. I don't know where you would get one stronger than the stock Grand National spring. The only real way to solve the bind-up that dual feeding causes is to slow down the oil going to the third clutches with an orifice in the third-reverse passage between the center suport bolts. It will be the hole on the drivers side. I made an orifice from a 5/16 by 18 bolt. I then ran the tap up in that hole to make threads to accept the orifice.Start out at .120 and increase as needed.
i would like to see a photo of that! did slowing the apply oil cause a flair?
 
LV GN said:
i would like to see a photo of that! did slowing the apply oil cause a flair?
Yes it did,and I was pleased. Once you create a flair ,you have two ways to fix it, You can use a weaker servo return spring and you can drill the orifice bigger. Having two ways of solving the flair allows you to sneek up on the right combo better.
 
lee how do you like the dual feed?im testing anew third gear set up that removes all of those dead passages in the valve body on the way to knocking off the band and it looks very promising.the 3/2 control valve is a problem causer when there is not enough governor oil to hold it open at low output shaft rpms.
 
Which Seal?

"Leave the lip seal of the direct drum" I guess I missed this! Is it the middle seal? NOT one of the piston seals. What negative effect would it have if this seal were not removed?

Thanks
9sec.
 
Imo

It would have no ill effect if left in. Yes, it is the seal down in the drum --not one of the piston seals. My understanding is that the seal we are talking about divides the piston into 2 apply areas--1 area for reverse--1 for 3rd. Seal not needed now that you are using ALL of the back side of piston area (dual feeding).
 
I'm also experimenting with different return springs in the direct clutch to get rid of the binding problem and the flair caused by using an orifice.
 
look here i have a new plate and clutch pack that does not require any orifice mods.this is what works .i have spent 3 weeks testing it and removed the vboddy 18 times till i got it right .the clutch pack also enhances the performance.new modded plate,center support bolt and clutch pack $89.00.its that simple,weve done the work for you.leaving out the seal on the drum slows down clutch exhaust time.
 
look here i have a new plate and clutch pack that does not require any orifice mods.this is what works .i have spent 3 weeks testing it and removed the vboddy 18 times till i got it right .the clutch pack also enhances the performance.new modded plate,center support bolt and clutch pack $89.00.its that simple,weve done the work for you.leaving out the seal on the drum slows down clutch exhaust time.

That is way cool....

I assume haveing the billet shafted forward drum is still manditory?

Are there any other options to direct feed on more of a budget? Is a hardened one available in lieu of the billet one?
 
look here i have a new plate and clutch pack that does not require any orifice mods.this is what works .i have spent 3 weeks testing it and removed the vboddy 18 times till i got it right .the clutch pack also enhances the performance.new modded plate,center support bolt and clutch pack $89.00.its that simple,weve done the work for you.leaving out the seal on the drum slows down clutch exhaust time.

Chris did you get my emails? I am in need of a few things. Ill need one of these setups also.
 
no please get in touch and ill set you up.ive been going home at 4 everyday my wifes brother is very ill and i have to babysit as we are not allowed to bring the kids into the hospital as they fear he has tb.what a situation,its one thing after another around here.
 
Check your spam folder. I sent you 3 in the last week.
 
I have used a hardened forward drum from Art Carr with good luck in Melissa's low 10 street car :eek:

Any part numbers? I looked on their site....I see an intermediate drum.... but no forward drum....
 
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