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Educate me on TE45A...

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Sweet6 by TC, do you mean converter? I am changing that this winter. Boostjunkie is going to do my tranny and set me up with a converter.I believe a 3200 or so.

Cruzn57, at what boost are you getting 11 flat?

Thanks
Coach
 
Sweet6 by TC, do you mean converter? I am changing that this winter. Boostjunkie is going to do my tranny and set me up with a converter.I believe a 3200 or so.

Cruzn57, at what boost are you getting 11 flat?

Thanks
Coach

Yes, I meant torque converter. I thought the 0 pump Vigilante is about right for a 63/TE45. I think it may be a little tight for a 45A. But if you have a built motor maybe not. I am just going by what my car is like. Stock motor with a 0 pump Vigilante.
 
boost levels

was running 28 lbs,
have run 30lbs, always with alky !!
it likes a lot of boost!!!
your not going to believe how hard it pulls, IT WILL SCARE YOU!
 
The cars I'm talking about only run a "0"-pump multidisc. Not even close to needing a 4k stall. And yes... They are 100% street cars.

Let me know when a car with the 6765 outperforms the Te45a. I haven't seen it yet, and from the looks at all the posts people are making with questions about the performance of the 6765, no one else has either. Again, lets not base the information from what a vendor lists to help sell the item.


K.

Im not. The 0 pump multidisec would spool a Q trim 45 like a turd on the street. It would be ok at the strip on the line especially with a t-brake. Then after that the 0 pump slips a lot and requires LU at WOT or it is giving up a lot of potential. it The old standby 6776 has been to 139-140:eek: . More than any 76 trim 45.
 
The 0 pump multidisec would spool a Q trim 45 like a turd on the street.

Would? I've run this turbo/converter on more than one car, and none of them had/have any issues spooling. We all foot-brake our cars, and yes we lock them @ wot.

I like the Te45a w/ a Q-trim so well, I'd never get it with a P-trim, but maybe that's just from my own experience.


K.
 
NCTurbo's, I'm the guy that posted the only known Dyno slip of the BB62/65 in comparison to the GT35R and GT37R ( the 67mm turbo ) in one of the threads. It clearly showed how it layed to waste the 67 turbo, the link is somewhere in this section and probably under the Cal Hartline thread on the new turbo.

The problem with the GN crowd is no one really dyno's stuff like the import crowd so when new turbo's come out we all feel like it's just vendor hype, the new 62/65 is not hype.
 
Would? I've run this turbo/converter on more than one car, and none of them had/have any issues spooling. We all foot-brake our cars, and yes we lock them @ wot.

I like the Te45a w/ a Q-trim so well, I'd never get it with a P-trim, but maybe that's just from my own experience.


K.

I didnt say it woudlnt spool. It will just not be optimal for street use. Ive been in cars with an 0 pump and q-trim. They are lazy especially with the compression under 9:1. They work great when launched at 12-15 psi and locked in 3rd. You have to have a lot of engine to pull through the locked converter though.
 
NCTurbo's, I'm the guy that posted the only known Dyno slip of the BB62/65 in comparison to the GT35R and GT37R ( the 67mm turbo ) in one of the threads. It clearly showed how it layed to waste the 67 turbo, the link is somewhere in this section and probably under the Cal Hartline thread on the new turbo.

The problem with the GN crowd is no one really dyno's stuff like the import crowd so when new turbo's come out we all feel like it's just vendor hype, the new 62/65 is not hype.

Ok... So you're close to making me find one of these turbos to try on one of the cars here. That way I'll have some hands-on experience with it, and can really compare it to the others.

Other than dyno time... Any track time yet? IMHO, the dyno can be too easily manipulated.


K.
 
NCTurbo's, I'm the guy that posted the only known Dyno slip of the BB62/65 in comparison to the GT35R and GT37R ( the 67mm turbo ) in one of the threads. It clearly showed how it layed to waste the 67 turbo, the link is somewhere in this section and probably under the Cal Hartline thread on the new turbo.

The problem with the GN crowd is no one really dyno's stuff like the import crowd so when new turbo's come out we all feel like it's just vendor hype, the new 62/65 is not hype.

It also shows that most of the gain is on the exhaust side. Dynoing doesnt tell us as much as one would think either. Its good for extracting power on one car but shouldnt be used to compare potential of one car to another. Most of the imports run manual transmissions and its easier to calculate the potential vs another car in those instances. A looser converter will make a dyno run on an auto car look like crap. But in the real world it could be a bullet. Tuning to a/f and boost/timing and comparing actual dragstrip performance is a better indicator imo. Ive seen a lot of dyno queens that lay down nearly 1000 hp but are a mess to drive on the street or strip.
 
Well considering most of us either lock up 3rd for 100% or are using PTC converters that are around 5% it's pretty much a GAIN for us since the dyno graph was from an AWD car which is generally 22% drivetrain loss vs our 15% if the converter is 100%.

I agree that the dyno is only one aspect and then that a different motor can change how the turbo reacts but if a 2.0L can gain 120hp around 5k vs a similar turbo, the gain isn't just the exhaust side as that turbo spooled up quicker to make all that extra power sooner and both were BB but only one was Billet Comp.

It's for real and I'd guess that our cars will make the mid range power go nuts vs that 2.0L.
 
I paid $550 for a water cooled 45a, used. If $$ isn't an issue get the baddest of everything...if it is... a good used 45a is hard to beat for the money. Alot of guys are spooling slow because they don't know how to tune. I ran the times in my sig at 27 psi. The turbo doesn't even wake up good there. Call Dusty and let him spec out a TC for you. I promise if everything else on the car is ok...you won't be disappointed with this turbo. Watch out for knock....as always.
 
I have the T64E, same turbo made by PTE, and it definitely needs a good converter. It likes high boost. It's capable of making a ton of power if you're brave enough to reach the limits of your boost gauge. ;)
 
How would it run on the street at 24-25 pounds? I want to tune it back for street use, then go racing and have 4-5 pounds left to play with. I want 11 flat street, mid 10 track. Am I on the right track? I found a real nice one, but have to wait on some funds...just put ALKY and new drag radials on.
 
How would it run on the street at 24-25 pounds? I want to tune it back for street use, then go racing and have 4-5 pounds left to play with. I want 11 flat street, mid 10 track. Am I on the right track? I found a real nice one, but have to wait on some funds...just put ALKY and new drag radials on.

Ive seen it go 10.80's at 23-24psi but it needs a good tune and a good torque converter. Id suggest a PTC 9.5" 17 blade stator.
 
Thanks Bob. I am hearing everything I wanted to hear. I really think I will start with this unit, and then after, I may spend for the BB unit a few years down the road.
Thanks
Coach
 
TE45a.60 a/r here. I bought it new in 2004. Street car. 3000 stall PTS 9/11. 210/210 billet hyd roller cam, ported irons, V4 IC, 60# inj, Race gas, JayC chips. I exceeded my 25 psi indicator on my boost gauge. Not exactly sure how much boost over 25, guessing 27 ish.

595 rwhp, 695 rwtq.

In my 87 T, 10.921 @ 126.95 first time at Bradenton, FL in 2006. Broke an axle on next pass, still have yet to return since it is a street car with no cage.

It's all in the tune...
 
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