EGR removal?

[kmtwig]

While I have the intake and heads off of my GN, I'm going to remove the EGR chamber that is in the plenam and intake, and refinish the insides. My question is, what about the EGR valve and all of the apparatus that is connected to it? Should I remove it and plug any open vacume lines and just let the electrical connector hang? Or should I leave it all in place? Thanks, kmtwig

 

["Turbo-T"]

Remove it all....the valve, the solenoid, and remove the check valve from the rubber line....then use the open line to run an aftermarket boost gauge or an alky kit. My 2 cents. Just ensure your chip is burned to ignore the EGR solenoid not being there.

 

[jlat]

hello; I know most aftermarket chips don't use the EGR so removing it is just for looks? By removing it will the engine be happier?
IBBY
PS happy 4th

 

[Nick Micale]

Remove it all....the valve, the solenoid, and remove the check valve from the rubber line....then use the open line to run an aftermarket boost gauge or an alky kit............

If you plan to use your AC, the check valve and vac line needs to stay connected at the firewall. You can remove the split lines for the EGR, and replace them with a new straight piece.

A basically stock engine does not care if the EGR is there or not.

 

["Turbo-T"]

If you plan to use your AC, the check valve and vac line needs to stay connected at the firewall. You can remove the split lines for the EGR, and replace them with a new straight piece.

A basically stock engine does not care if the EGR is there or not.

Nick, not sure what you're getting at....on my car (unless mine was done differently) there's a short piece of hose over the front of the driver side valve cover, just behind the alternator, with a T fitting on the end of it. One end of the T fitting used to go to the charcoal canister, and the other end of the T fitting went to the EGR solenoid. When I removed the EGR solenoid and canister line, I capped off one side of the T fitting, then hooked a rubber line to the other end to run my boost gauge.

There is a second line (with check valve) that feeds to under the HVAC blower box, and back out again to the valve on the heater core inlet, if this is what you are referring to.

 

[Nick Micale]

Sounds like your car has been changed from the stock configuration?

The charcoal canister is fed from a metal line off the vac block directly, there is no tee in that vac line, but there is a check valve.

The EGR and AC vac is from a metal line with a 90 deg. bend under the throttle body back to the firewall, and this line has a tee and check valve which has one leg that connects to the AC controls and vac reservoir.

These old-school vacuum operated items are a real PIA, especially when the car is 25 years old.

In the newer cars, solenoids and stepping motors control function like this, especially the AC controls which are a nightmare on our cars.