Either my turbo went out, or...

[lyonsd]

...there's a boost leak.

Whatever the case, I'm only getting about 2-3 psi of boost max. And when it "maxes", it starts jerking. Sounds like a hose came loose.

I looked and felt the hoses. They all feel nice and secure. I'll loosen them all tomorrow and re-seat and tighten them.

But if it is the turbo, what is a good turbo that is a direct stock replacement, but significantly better? I was checking the turbos out on Cotton's page. I've got Champion ported iron heads and a slightly bigger than stock cam, and the other "usual" mods (chip, injectors, fuel pump, air filter, Precision upper intake plenum and throttle body, AFPR, ...).

 

[pontiac69fb]

You sure there isn't another issue such as fuel or maf going bad?

 

[TurboDave]

Heavy jerking when you get into boost is also a possible sign of a bad ignition module/coil pack.

 

[Slow91z]

Is it possible your boost line split?? And depending on where you hooked the boost line could be losing boost signal to critical areas?? Just something to check.

 

[gidyuppp]

Mine did the same. What turbodave said with the module/coil pack plus my crank sensor and problem solved. good luck

 

[lyonsd]

But wouldn't the boost still come on quickly if it was a bad coil pack?

What happens now is the boost SLOWLY builds. I put my foot to the floor, the revs build, but boost is reading 0. Eventually, it creeps up to 1 psi, 2 psi, 3 psi and starts jerking. By this time I'm doing 50-60 mph.

 

[lyonsd]

I didn't get a chance to play with the intercooler hoses today. The scanmaster is showing only codes 24 and 44, but I've had them for a while.

 

[GullsGN]

If your turbo took a dump, you would KNOW it. It wouldn't show itself by not boosting or running well. Best case scenario would be the seals go and it would smoke the joint out. If a wheel went you might be replacing the engine. You probably have other problems. It doesn't sound like the turbo is toast. Pull of the big hose on the turbo and check the wheel. If it doesn't have any side to side or in and out movement and is spinning freely and not hitting the housing you are good to go.

 

[GullsGN]

You do have at least a Scan Master, right. First guess would be maf going out. Give it a whack with a screwdriver while idling and see if it stumbles. Check vac lines to turbo, check coil pack and ign module. What are your scan master numbers?

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

You could pull the inlet hose off the turbo and check for in/out and side to side play.

 

[TurboTnZ06]

Of all the parts on a TR to break, I'd say the turbo would be the last thing to break if it had oil. I'd suspect electrical or connection problems first via scanmaster.

 

[brisbon]

if it wont get up to 10mph then its a boost hose. if faster than ign modual and or coil pack. which im selling have two each used with a month on each on my parts for sale thread.

...there's a boost leak.

Whatever the case, I'm only getting about 2-3 psi of boost max. And when it "maxes", it starts jerking. Sounds like a hose came loose.

I looked and felt the hoses. They all feel nice and secure. I'll loosen them all tomorrow and re-seat and tighten them.

But if it is the turbo, what is a good turbo that is a direct stock replacement, but significantly better? I was checking the turbos out on Cotton's page. I've got Champion ported iron heads and a slightly bigger than stock cam, and the other "usual" mods (chip, injectors, fuel pump, air filter, Precision upper intake plenum and throttle body, AFPR, ...).

 

[lyonsd]

if it wont get up to 10mph then its a boost hose. if faster than ign modual and or coil pack. which im selling have two each used with a month on each on my parts for sale thread.

It'll get to 10mph. It'll go 100 mph. Just with 0-2 psi of boost.

 

[Razor]

Sounds like unsecured hose on IC or Turbo.

If all your hoses are secured properly.. then it could very well be turbo. Inspect the wheels on it. If metal went through it could take out the wheels.

Every Buick I have been in that cannot make boost has had loose IC hose connection.

 

[meanchicken]

If the turbo wheels received significant enough damage, it would create a vibration and the turbo would not sound normal. Mine sounded like a super charger when I damaged a fin on the turbine wheel.

If the IC hose blew loose, then you'd never get more than a few mph built up before it started bucking on you. Been there, done that too.:biggrin:

If youi blew a small hole in a hose....then you might be able to build a little boost befopre the hose started to leak and then the leak would cause the bucking to begin.

Inspect all your hoses for leaks.

 

[jhanson1750]

the next time you pop the hood take a look at the wastegate rod connection at the downpipe or elbow. Good luck, Jon Hanson

 

[lyonsd]

the next time you pop the hood take a look at the wastegate rod connection at the downpipe or elbow. Good luck, Jon Hanson

Thanks.

My adjustable wastegate rod fell off.

I can see how this would not allow the turbo to make more than a couple psi. But I'm confused how it would result in jerking when it gets to about 3 psi, assuming the intercooler hoses are secured.

I've got a new part coming. We'll see when I get it installed.

Thanks again, to all who replied.

 

[Slow91z]

Thanks.

My adjustable wastegate rod fell off.

I can see how this would not allow the turbo to make more than a couple psi. But I'm confused how it would result in jerking when it gets to about 3 psi, assuming the intercooler hoses are secured.

I've got a new part coming. We'll see when I get it installed.

Thanks again, to all who replied.

It's because the computer has no idea how much boost you are running, so when you would go full throttle it is dumping a crap load of fuel even though you are forcing much air into the motor making it rich as hell.

 

[meanchicken]

Another case of check the simple stuff first...solved.