Electric FP gauge - bad or good?

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

87-WE2

Back in business!!
Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
1,132
Finally taking some steps to do a few of the things I've been needing & wanting to do for a while. I'm looking at boost & FP gauges to mount in the A-pillar. Obviously the FP gauge will need to be electric. I've always heard that electric pressure gauges pretty much suck. Is an electric FP gauge a complete waste of $$ and time?

I'm looking at AutoMeter Ultra Lite II's.

I'm just not a fan of the mechanical on the hood, but if it's more reliable - I'm game to mount one PLUS the electric inside.

If the electrics are worth a darn, where would the best place for the sending unit be? I was thinking under the FP reg. on the way back to the tank or maybe on the end of the rail.

Any thoughts or am I completely in left field?
 
I have both. The electric inside of the car, and in case that stops working, i also have a mechanical under the hood coming off the rail
 
Been using an Autometer Z series electric for 7 years with no issues. And its dead accurate. And if you have a Powerlogger you can easily tie in the sender so you can log fuel pressure.

My sender is mounted directly at the end of the fuel rail. Some like to run a braided line off the fuel rail and mount the sender elsewhere on the fender or firewall.
 
I run the autometer phantom 100psi elec. I verify it from time to time with a temp mechanical rail gauge. From then on I just run the elec, plus I can log it to the powerlogger.
 
I've always heard that electric pressure gauges pretty much suck. Is an electric FP gauge a complete waste of $$ and time?

Not sure what gave you the impression electric gauges suck. Hopefully not a bad experience. I went with all electric (Autometer ES) gauges and love them. Get a good gauge and you won't be disappointed.
 
Thanks for all the input, guys. I bought the AutoMeters today - Mechanical Boost and Electric FP. Now I gotta call Brian to get the gauge pod sent. Can't wait to get all my new stuff put on now.
 
I have a mechanical on the rail,and recently purchased an electric for the dash.It will be interesting to see how close the two are,when both are working.
 
I'm using the Autometer transducer on the 55 system, to data log the FP.[EFILIVE] I checked the accuracy, vs the mech gauge I have. [Verified on the inj bench.] It is "dead-on". I also tested an Autometer gauge and transducer for a customer. That combo indicated it was a constant 5psi low. The customer sent them back to Auto tech dept.
Bottom line: They may be accurate, may not. When in doubt, VERIFY!;)
 
regardless of the actual number its telling you, as long as they rise 1-1 consistently its still an indicatior of the pump working properly, not necessarily the exact amount of fuel pressure at the time.
 
thanks for all the further input. I have the electric gauge (got it damned quick!!!!) and boost. Waiting on the a-pillar pod to come from gbody. Cant with to get it.

I do plan on getting a rail-mount gauge also and just verify it every now & again. Tha\nks for the advice, guys.
 
regardless of the actual number its telling you, as long as they rise 1-1 consistently its still an indicatior of the pump working properly, not necessarily the exact amount of fuel pressure at the time.

What makes this an issue is, knowing the Fp is rising 1:1, is of little value, if the tune is based on a particular base psi, and the driver doesn't know if it's actually there, or not.
If one wants to actually test the gauge, record the variations, and work from that, that's a different story. [Exactly why I test every gauge].
 
Chuck you just beat me to it . I had a mechanical gauge on the rail that was reading 9 psi low :eek:, it raised 1 : 1 and it cost me a headgasket. My base pressure was way off and appeared to run ok until WOT . I checked that gauge against 2 other mechanical & newly hooked up Autometer Pro Comp electrical at the same time and all 3 were dead on except the rail mount. I would run a line from the rail to a inner fender or firewall mounted transducer to minimize vibration. The vibration is what kills the transducers. Sam
 
Back
Top