Engine backfired & now locked up...HELP!!

[The Darkside]

I was getting on the freeway & was about 3/4 throttle when the car backfired & then lost power...I rolled to the side of the road where I tried restarting it, but it wouldn't turn over. After about 10 minutes I tried again & it did turn over but very, very slowly & then nothing. I got it towed back to the house & got it up off the ground where I could see more.1st thing I noticed that when trying to start it, it acted like the battery was dead, but my scanmaster showed 11.9 volts & lights were nice & bright until trying to start then they would go out. Got under the car & noticed the starter was hung up in the flywheel, so knocked it back & tried again. Same thing, no start & starter hung in the flywheel. Thought the starter might be bad, bought another & got the same results. I also drained oil & saw no bearing material & no metal. Checked plugs & saw no wet plugs...all looked good. Collant was down a couple of inches, but could be due to a heater core leaking lightly. Tried to turn the motor by hand using a socket on the torque convertor bolts & could not budge it. I even removed the belts & the plugs & still couldn't get the motor to turn over. I believe it's locked up & now need some advice/suggestions as to what to look for or probable causes....

Want to add that the motor was rebuilt 15,000 miles ago & I was thinking timing chain, but I installed a brand new Cloyes double roller, so don't think that could be the problem..
Please help....The Darkside

 

[GNguy]

Did you look at the FPR? Is everything connected there? When I had a back fire the hose blew off the FPR just a suggestion. good luck.

 

[85HOT-T]

Rings? Maybe you blew a compression/ turbo ring out. Are the pistons newer? Was the tolerances checked on them. maybe thats why you have no material in the oil.

 

[CHANCE]

check valves might of droped one bent one

 

[Russ Merritt]

Broken crank. Take the pan off and look.

 

[HellOnWheels]

I don't believe 11.9 volts will turn an engine over or at least fast enough to start it, charge it up then try again. While battery is charging I would remove the cam sensor cap and see if everything is in place, and the sensor is not loosened up.

Good luck,
HOW

 

[pacecarta]

Want to add that the motor was rebuilt 15,000 miles ago & I was thinking timing chain, but I installed a brand new Cloyes double roller, so don't think that could be the problem..



it could be cloyes doubles as i recall are junk

or if the bolt that hold the top gear were overtightened or under tightened

pop the front cover off ,wouldnt suprise me if the gear and chain is laying on the crank sprocket

otherwise im with russ and a cracked crank

 

[Evaddave 87gn]

Before any

You need to see if the motor is locked. You need to turn it at the crank, not the flywheel. Check that before you go all over. If you can't turn it in any direction, its locked. But right now your guessing, and you don't know if its locked or not. If you are able to turn the motor over, at the crank, then look further.

Just my $.02's
DAve

 

[The Darkside]

Thanks for the suggestions you've given me so far...

I did notice my fuel pressure regulator is showing 42 lbs. of pressure even though I haven't started the car in 2 days...is that normal? It normally drops aovernight....Especially since that 42lbs is showing with the line on. My fuel pressure is set at 40 line off..never seen it that high before with line on

I'll pull off the valve covers tomorrow & take a look...

I'll also check the can sensor....could that really cause all this?

When you say check to see if I can turn the motor over at the crank, what method do you suggest to do that? I did try & turn it at the front of the motor too by trying to turn the fan, but couldn't get it to move in either direction...

 

[Evaddave 87gn]

Hmm

Well you need to take the intercooler fan off, if not running FMIC, behind that is the large bolt that holds the Dampner pulley on, turn from there. Attach a socket and trun clockwise, if plugs are out, sould turn with small amount of force.

Fuel at 42lbs.?
Well lets think about this for a min.
There is no restriction passed the regulator, its open all the way back to the tank, the injectors open with charge, although some will leak down. If your pressure gauge is reading at the end of rail, then pressure is preaent, only restrcition at rail is the regulator. If fuel can not get back to the tank, car WILL NOT RUN!! Soo easy check, give the fuel somewhere to go. Swap out the regulator, or use the braided hose from your fuel gauge as a return, (make sure hose is open, and no shrader valve,) place braid hose in buckret and start. (I;m thinking as I type, so bear w/me) OR easier check, simply remove line below regulator pressure drop? IF not then you know regulator is shot. But i could still be restricting if it just tricks out, if comes out with a blst then restrictin probly further down in line. I'd start there, fuel should not be that high after sitting for days.
DAve

 

[chevyII]

there is a reason the starter all of a sudden is locking up. your crank is in 2 pieces. Remove the belt just to make sure. Then pull the plugs and put a socket on the snout and turn it over if you can. But I would bet you have a broken crank whick would make the starter to bind

 

[Ormand]

The fuel pressure regulator will not pass fuel if the pressure drops below the setting, so if it is set at 42 or higher, then it will close off the fuel return line when pressure drops below that setting. There is a check valve which prevents fuel from returning through the pump, so that path will not allow pressure to leak down. The injectors are all closed when the power is off, so they won't provide a leak path, either. Usually, the injectors, the FRP, and the check valve will leak a little, so the pressure drops off gradually. Very unusual to have it hold up as long as two days, but that wouldn't affect the engine turning over. Sounds like time to drop the pan, and take a look.