You can type here any text you want

Engine lifting strap

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

chrisgarrett

Registered Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2004
Messages
2,007
I'm looking for suggestions on the best way to remove an engine. Each time I have removed/installed an engine, I'm not happy with the way the I end up attaching the chains. I want to remove and install an engine without removing the top end stuff. I like the idea of a lifting strap, but I don't see where you slide it under the intake manifold. Do you have to remove anything? The only space I see in the intake seems too far back and looks like it would cause the engine to pitch forward. I also don't have any lifting hooks on the intake.
Any suggestions on the best place to attach a strap or chains to the engine.
 
I always use a chain located at the drivers side head in back and passenger side head in front where the negative cable goes. Has always worked for me.
 
When I swung an engine from one car into another I used the bolt hole on the passenger side rear head and the top bolt of the alternator bracket.
I used nylon webbing with D rings I placed a loop in the webbing just above the dog house and the motor lifted quite well and level.
I like webbing over chain alot more since you can put lifting loops and adjust lengths quite easily.
I didnt remove any assecories, intercooler etc on this swap since I didnt have A/C it was much easier.
 
I have used the chain in the front ps head and the back of the ds head, but when I get the engine in the bolt gets hung up on the firewall and I can't get it out. What am I doing wrong? :confused:
 
Maybe need to rock the engine forward before lifting that way the back clears the firewall better
 
Maybe need to rock the engine forward before lifting that way the back clears the firewall better

The problem arises putting the engine back in. When I tilt the engine back to mate it with the trans the back bolt on the ds head gets wedged.
 
The problem arises putting the engine back in. When I tilt the engine back to mate it with the trans the back bolt on the ds head gets wedged.

Ahh. When replacing the engine I sat the engine down on the mounts, bolt them in and the pull the engine forward to remove that back pesky bolt, then allow the engine to settle backwards on the trans.
 
I have used the chain in the front ps head and the back of the ds head, but when I get the engine in the bolt gets hung up on the firewall and I can't get it out. What am I doing wrong? :confused:

It may work better using the front passenger side intake bolt hole and the rear drivers side intake bolt hole, using longer bolts to go thru the chain link and bolt into the intake/head in those locations.
 
I used a carb mounted lifting plate redrilled to bolt on in place of the doghouse, worked great! pretty well balanced as well...
 
It may work better using the front passenger side intake bolt hole and the rear drivers side intake bolt hole, using longer bolts to go thru the chain link and bolt into the intake/head in those locations.

This sounds like a plan. I've thought about doing this, but I was hesitant about removing and later reinstalling intake bolts if I'm not removing the intake. I've had so many problems in the past with oil leaking out of intakes that I didn't like the idea of removing any bolts. The last time I had the intake off, I used one of those fancy bolt kits to reinstall and now I have no studs or hooks.
 
I used a carb mounted lifting plate redrilled to bolt on in place of the doghouse, worked great! pretty well balanced as well...

A few years ago I used one of those upper intake mounted plates and ended up stripping two bolt holes. Putting that much weight on aluminum bolt holes was not a good idea.
 
I'm looking for suggestions on the best way to remove an engine. Each time I have removed/installed an engine, I'm not happy with the way the I end up attaching the chains. I want to remove and install an engine without removing the top end stuff. I like the idea of a lifting strap, but I don't see where you slide it under the intake manifold. Do you have to remove anything? The only space I see in the intake seems too far back and looks like it would cause the engine to pitch forward. I also don't have any lifting hooks on the intake.
Any suggestions on the best place to attach a strap or chains to the engine.
For $10 shipped I will send you a special strap I made for lifting engines in/out without having to use bolts! It simply slide's under the runners on the intake and hooks to your hoist and it won't scratch nothing..

PM me if your intrested..

Scot W.
 
For $10 shipped I will send you a special strap I made for lifting engines in/out without having to use bolts! It simply slide's under the runners on the intake and hooks to your hoist and it won't scratch nothing..

PM me if your intrested..

Scot W.

Doesn't running the strap under the intake make the engine pitch forward? It looks like the opening where the strap would go through is too far back.
 
Just get a load leveler from harbor freight and put it on your cherry picker. It make pulling and installing engine WAY easier. You can get a good one from harbor freight for like 40$ even if you only use it once a year it's worth it. There is no better way to hook up to an engine than these.
 
Just get a load leveler from harbor freight and put it on your cherry picker. It make pulling and installing engine WAY easier. You can get a good one from harbor freight for like 40$ even if you only use it once a year it's worth it. There is no better way to hook up to an engine than these.

Not familiar with these. Does it just go in place of the doghouse?
 
engine lift strap

Nope! works just fine!

Scot w got it right...take him up on his offer/the strap!! I used mine and put the engine and trans in together:cool: That was also a completely assembled motor...it really is the ticket! HTH.
 
Just get a load leveler from harbor freight and put it on your cherry picker. It make pulling and installing engine WAY easier. You can get a good one from harbor freight for like 40$ even if you only use it once a year it's worth it. There is no better way to hook up to an engine than these.

+ 1 on the load leveler, had one for years. It goes on the hoist hook and the load can be cranked with a long screw to shift front or back, let's you get that angle perfect to bolt the tranny up.

Chuck
 
Back
Top