Engine oils with Zinc.

Brer Rabbit

Pursuit Specialist
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
I know this topic has been covered but the search feature is not working, so can anyone tell me what oil has zinc already in it? I think Rotella has it but the bottle did not say.(Rotella synthetic didnt say either) I thought royal purple had zinc but again I did not find it on the bottle. Since Im about to start a fresh motor, I would like to use whats best right from the start. Suggestions anyone? Oh yeah--the zinc issue came from my builder who said that Harland Sharp told them they need to run that in the oil because of their rockers :confused: . I just want to do what they are sayin, dont want any problems.
 
Brer Rabbit said:
I know this topic has been covered but the search feature is not working, so can anyone tell me what oil has zinc already in it? I think Rotella has it but the bottle did not say.(Rotella synthetic didnt say either) I thought royal purple had zinc but again I did not find it on the bottle. Since Im about to start a fresh motor, I would like to use whats best right from the start. Suggestions anyone? Oh yeah--the zinc issue came from my builder who said that Harland Sharp told them they need to run that in the oil because of their rockers :confused: . I just want to do what they are sayin, dont want any problems.
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It won't say zinc on the label, it will use an acroynm which denotes a heavy duty package, like maybe high endurence or saomething.

http://www.turb*buick*.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49385&highlight=zinc
 
Either Rotella T 15w40 or best bet is to use GM EOS. (engine oil supplement) It is designed for break in, but some guys use it every oil change. You should be able to get it from your dealer, a better jobber parts house that deals with Delco, or even on the internet.
 
Valvoline Racing oil does. I'm just buying BG MOA(contains zinc alkydithiophosphate) on eBay for $7.00 a can(shipped). GM quit using zinc in the EOS(supposedly), because of environmental issues(and a lack of flat tappet cams in the newer cars). I think it's cause they couldn't spell, "alkydithiophosphate" ;). BG even has it spelled wrong on their can :rolleyes: !
 
good info rodman, I will have to look into that. Also, BG is made right here in town so I may have to look into that as well. ;)
 
Ya might get it cheaper as a walk in customer Squid. Mention the spelling(they put an extra "L" in "alkyd") to them, just to see what they say ;) !
 
just bought eos at gm 7.99 a bottle and got 15w40 rotella also was looking at oil supplements and STP OIL SUPPLEMENT SAYS ZINC RIGHT ON THE BOTTLE just getting ready to break my new $$$$$$$ motor :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
NAPA in Phoenix sells 10-30 or 20-50 Valvoline Conventional Racing Oil for $19 a 6 pack.
 
rodman99999 said:
Valvoline Racing oil does. I'm just buying BG MOA(contains zinc alkydithiophosphate) on eBay for $7.00 a can(shipped). GM quit using zinc in the EOS(supposedly), because of environmental issues(and a lack of flat tappet cams in the newer cars). I think it's cause they couldn't spell, "alkydithiophosphate" ;). BG even has it spelled wrong on their can :rolleyes: !
just bought some it says zinc on the bottle. and the government took it out of non diesel oils because of the envirement and newer cars are going roller cams " no break in"
 
Brer Rabbit said:
.......... I thought royal purple had zinc but again I did not find it on the bottle. Since Im about to start a fresh motor, I would like to use whats best right from the start............
Not sure if you want to use Royal Purple (Synthetic) on a brand new motor.
I used straight HD30 with a bottle of EOS. Fill the oil filter with halve the bottle of EOS and pour the rest in the crankcase. Be sure to prime till you see oil comming out of ALL the pushrods.

Edit:
During the engine priming process, I rotated the engine by hand about (90 deg) for a full 720 to make sure the lifters were bled. I also hand primed the lifters before install.
 
lpaulabbott said:
just bought some it says zinc on the bottle. and the government took it out of non diesel oils because of the envirement and newer cars are going roller cams " no break in"
Was it the GM EOS that said, "zinc" on the bottle? I had heard it was deleted. Maybe I got bad info, or else they had some old stock?
 
Royal purple isnt pure synthetic. Its a blend more or less with alot of additives that no one else throws in their oil. I used it religously for years and know alot of people that switched and never went back. Its really good stuff, and rumor is that its got moly in it. Mobil 1 used to drain out at 4000 miles looking like tar, and I could go 8000 with the RP and it would drain out looking almost new. People say "well thats cause it must not have any detergents in it. Detergents pick up all the bad stuff and make the oil look bad..thats a good thing". Thats BS. I dont want to circulate a bunch of burnt carbon and soot through my bearings and everywhere. I pulled my valve covers on my last car and everything looked extremely clean and like new. Its almost looks as if the Mobil 1 "burns", and the RP doesnt at all....and this is after 8000 miles with 600hp and 7500rpm shifts every day, driving to work and back every day.
 
Most all oils have some levels of zinc and Phosphorous in them it's the low levels of these additives i n modern oils that are effecting flat tappet cam shafts. The June issue of Hot Rod has an outstanding article about Flat-Tappet Cam shafts and what has led to the large number of failures over the past few years. They also talk about oil additives (Zinc & Phosphorous) and what oils have the highest amounts needed to help ensure your flat tappet will live. Some they recommended were Cosworth Racing, Shell Rotella T, Pennzoil 20W-50 Racing and Quaker Stae Q Racing. It is a very good article that everyone should read.
 
fram has a quart bottle of additive that has zinc in it says it right on the bottle
 
87geeinn said:
RX-6, Do you have a link to that article?
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Might have to do a search over on TBS.com, but there was a very good thread going on this very same subject, and it had a hot link to the article.
About 2.5 weeks old, maybe. HTH
 
The new oils, according to all the experts quoted in many magazine articles, say the new oils shouldn't be a problem on engines with roller tappets. However, on engines with flat tappets, hydraulic or mechanical, there have been failures, but almost exclusively at break-in or shortly thereafter. If your flat tappet engine has passed breakin then it's unlikely the cam will fail.

However, since my T/A has a flat tappet hydraulic cam, I wrote to Mobil and asked which oils have enough phosphorous and zinc to protect my 1970 engine. Here's their response:

"Mobil1 MX4T 10W40 and Mobil1 V-TWIN 20W50 motorcycle motor oils, Mobil1
15W50 Extended performance and Mobil1 5W40 diesel motor oils contains
the higher levels of zinc and phosphorous for your cams. The new energy
conserving motor oils do have reduced levels of zinc/phos however, they
typically do not have any adverse effects on cams unless you are
running
higher valve spring pressures. I would suggest you stick with the
product listed above if you are concerned about the phos/zinc issues."
 
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