ENGINE ON STAND,WHAT FIRST? NORTH CALIFORNA

[fastblackracing]

i pulled the crank and pistons out,the bearings on the pistons look like this.....the piston rings and cylinders look great,still crosshatch and no lip.the bearings all look like the pics,crank not as bad.what is this wear?should i have crank ground and new bearings and rings?or reuse rings and new bearings.

Can you pull one of the bearing inserts out of that rod and look for a date code and bearing#?

 

[greeneyegi]

Can you pull one of the bearing inserts out of that rod and look for a date code and bearing#?

on the back it says GMM4 18005282 9Y731 ON THE ROD BEARINGS

 

[fastblackracing]

on the back it says GMM4 18005282 9Y731 ON THE ROD BEARINGS

that bearing is worn enough that I would replace it. You need a micrometer that reads to 1/1000 of an inch to measure the crank to see where its at for wear, probably a light polish and it will be ok. Did you find out out where your cylinder pressure was going?

 

[greeneyegi]

that bearing is worn enough that I would replace it. You need a micrometer that reads to 1/1000 of an inch to measure the crank to see where its at for wear, probably a light polish and it will be ok. Did you find out out where your cylinder pressure was going?

after pulling it apart,their was no ovious way for the air leak.the rings looked real good.the springs are real light.i can push down with the palm of my hand and the valves opened.kinda think the springs were too loose and maybe the valves werent sealing all the way.
most all the rod bearings looked like those,i figured a polish and bearings and a light hone and call it good.do you think a hone and new rings?

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Pressure testing the heads will tell you which valve(s) are leaking.

 

[big reazon]

Yep what he said I did the same thing you did pulled down a perfectly fine motor because I didn't like the compression check numbers and it was the heads the whole time so I had Turbo Fabricator do a set for me. I think the reason most people were telling you not to pull the short block apart is because now where do you stop on the build. Do you know the recommended clearances for putting everything back together? Now I have snowballed into a several thousand dollar build.

 

[greeneyegi]

Yep what he said I did the same thing you did pulled down a perfectly fine motor because I didn't like the compression check numbers and it was the heads the whole time so I had Turbo Fabricator do a set for me. I think the reason most people were telling you not to pull the short block apart is because now where do you stop on the build. Do you know the recommended clearances for putting everything back together? Now I have snowballed into a several thousand dollar build.

yeah,thats right but,ill feel much better now knowing what im working with.some of the documentation i got with my ride didnt coincide with whats inside.i would have never thought the timing gear was near replacement,but by finding the big crack in it made everything im doing now worth every hour.definitely more money now but shes my baby .today i purchased my first set of drag radials.i got a barely used set of 275/50/17 m&h's,and a brand new set of eagle f1 245/45/17 for 300$.had em mounted/balanced and they fit perfect!so everything i do my 60' time will be better.i think my problem was my springs,i couldnt get my trap higher than 101.which was the same at 18# or 24# .
im lookin at the price on having my heads done or pickin up a done set.it looks like a used set of champions are about 7-800$.i cant get mine done for that.
now for the bottom end,should i put new rings or just use my 100k ones?the polish and bearings seem like a no brainer.

 

[fastblackracing]

do you still have the stock cam and timing chain in it?

 

[greeneyegi]

do you still have the stock cam and timing chain in it?

yes everything was stock,even the head gaskets i believe were original.the cam timing gear had a large crack in it and all the gears had tooth gouges inem.

 

[greeneyegi]

Yep what he said I did the same thing you did pulled down a perfectly fine motor because I didn't like the compression check numbers and it was the heads the whole time so I had Turbo Fabricator do a set for me. I think the reason most people were telling you not to pull the short block apart is because now where do you stop on the build. Do you know the recommended clearances for putting everything back together? Now I have snowballed into a several thousand dollar build.

no i dont know the the clearances

 

[fastblackracing]

ok--- you need a timing chain and gears, polish on the crank and new bearings and rear main seal, light hone on the block and new rings, I highly recomend a valve job also, new valve springs, new headbolts and a gasket set, clean it up good and paint all nice and pretty. Throw in any clean up port work that you want to do and call it a done. This is the minimum I feel you should do at this point. Eye ball your cam also make sure the lobes are all good and keep track of the lifter locations so that you can reinstall thm exactly were they came from.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

If it had of been my engine, I would have turned the engine over by hand to verify all the rockers were moving the same distance. If the cam/lifters checked out...then I would have pulled the heads and had them pressure checked. You would likely see that one of the valves in the offending cylinder were leaking. I would have had a valve job done...and bolted them back on with studs...with stock or Felpro headgaskets with new valve springs. I would have tossed on a new timing chain and cam gear on it and then gone out and flogged the crap out of it at my local track.

 

[greeneyegi]

ok--- you need a timing chain and gears, polish on the crank and new bearings and rear main seal, light hone on the block and new rings, I highly recomend a valve job also, new valve springs, new headbolts and a gasket set, clean it up good and paint all nice and pretty. Throw in any clean up port work that you want to do and call it a done. This is the minimum I feel you should do at this point. Eye ball your cam also make sure the lobes are all good and keep track of the lifter locations so that you can reinstall thm exactly were they came from.

exactly what i was thinking,any machine shop can do the polish?the cam looks great,ill buy a good micrometer to check the lobes,though,i was thinkin a new 206 cam and lifter setup.
how much should a light porting be?

 

[turbofabricator]

I would NOT buy used champion aluminum heads. Most of the early heads crack. Used iron heads from Champion would be a better move. No gain in aluminum heads unless you are making more than 700 HP. Use a roller cam if you can afford it. Sounds like a basic rebuild is in store for you and then add what ever performance upgrades you can afford. Good luck.