Engine Questions

[54Rich]

OK, so I got tired of always being greasy every time I touch the engine. So today, it got yanked OK, NBD.

So now that it's out, to get new gaskets, rear seal, what else should attack? I have some gauges that are going in and I grabbed a plastic vacuum line and it broke in half? Really don't have major funds, but could scrape a few dollars. I have a new water pump. No idea how many miles are on the engine, 105K + on the car, so who knows? It runs very well and pulled the plugs and they look perfect (only about 1500 miles or so on them). How can I tell if the valve springs are original? I’ll try to shoot a couple of pictures tomorrow.

Transmission is getting a 2800 stall, it is a used original that works fine, but should I at least put a shift kit in it?

When I put it back in, it will have ALKY, 42lb injectors, boost controller and Eric’s chip. All the gauges, oil, coolant, vacuum/boost, knock gauge, and of course a Scan master. I noticed across the top into the manifold is what looks like 3 temp senders? (Again, I’ll try to take a couple pictures) . Anyhow, I can’t seem to ID them or what they are. 86-87 Turbo 3.8 Liter Engine Sensors only shows one coolant temp?

Putting it back together, I’d like to get rid of the EGR valve, the boost control valve, what do you do with the wiring? Leave it hooked up, won’t it throw a code if disconnected? When I got rid of the powermaster, I just tucked the wiring behind the new vacuum assit. I guess what I’m asking is what can I get rid of, what has to stay, where can I put my oil and coolant sensors, and since it’s out what money would you spend?

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[54Rich]

Pictures

Here are some pictures.

1) Valve springs, can you tell if they are original?

2) EGR stuff, can it just be removed? What about the wire connector?

3) Front of engine sensors? What are they for? On top of the manifold and two in the front, one on the right side, one on the left.

Thanks!

 

[Just a Six??]

Funny the sensors arent listed there?? Anyways the one on the lower left is where I run my Temp Guage as its for the dash temp lite & the one on the right is for the fans (or is it the one on top?) but keep those ones.
As for EGR Erics chips dont flash a code for EGR so tuck the wires away & mention to him you dont use it. Valve springs look stock to me do to the cups still being on them. get some fresh ones in there.
Now Clean that sucker!!

 

[Blown&Injected]

If the rear main looks rough, I would replace all the bearings. Definitely all the vacuum lines. Just hide the plug for the EGR if you block it off. It is not cheap but a roller and behive springs

 

[SloGN]

here ya go !

 

[54Rich]

Thnaks! I just fond this post aas well. I knew it was here somewhere.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/244257-cooling-issue.html

I sure it's discussed and I'll find it someday, what valve springs should I use? No money for the roller and since it runs well (or did before I pulled it) I'm not going to to the level of the cam. (Too many projects requiring money)

I replaced the rear seal last year with the engine in the car, bearings looked good, however, I did somthing wrong with the seal, darn thing still leaked.

Thanks,

 

[scot w.]

Thnaks! I just fond this post aas well. I knew it was here somewhere.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/244257-cooling-issue.html

I sure it's discussed and I'll find it someday, what valve springs should I use? No money for the roller and since it runs well (or did before I pulled it) I'm not going to to the level of the cam. (Too many projects requiring money)

I replaced the rear seal last year with the engine in the car, bearings looked good, however, I did somthing wrong with the seal, darn thing still leaked.

Thanks,

Rich this time around with the rear seal. Take some good o2 sensor safe silicone and fill each of those slots where the rubber & Steel pin go. Then insert the rubber correctly and install your main cap back on and tourque to specs. You can also put the steel pins in if you like but the silicone is what stops the leaks in the future.

Scot W.

 

[54Rich]

Are these what I want:

COMP Cams 980-12 - COMP Cams Valve Springs

 

[charlief1]

Check your timing chain and then do EarlBrowns timing cover mods for oil pressure.

 

[54Rich]

Yea, I will pull it apart tomorrow, I was planing on a new chain while I was in there.

These mods?:

http://www.buickperformance.com/OilingMods.htm

 

[Just a Six??]

Yea, I will pull it apart tomorrow, I was planing on a new chain while I was in there.

These mods?:

http://www.buickperformance.com/OilingMods.htm

Never seen that one before? here is the Earl Brown writeup.
How to build a front cover/oil pump - TurboBuicks.com

 

[54Rich]

Well, I've managed to reduce the engine to a bunch of stuff laid out on the floor. When I pulled the timing cover, there was so much extra RTV I'd say the chaing has been replaced, but with a nylon gear, seems sloppy as well. Anyhow, removed the manifold and noticed that there were two different head gaskets, one thicker than the other I think someone popped one and only replaced that one. So since I was that far apart, might as well pull the heads.

So I need the following parts, is there a perfered brand?

Comp 980 springs
head gaskets
timing chain and gear set
maniflod gasket

I have a couple sets of the other gaskets that I'll need.

Going to replace the water pump, cause I have a new one.

It's down to the block, cam, crank. The rotating assy looks very good, cam looks great and no issues with the cyc boars. I'd guess it was rebuilt at some time? Can't find a SN anywhere on the block

Since it's down this far, would it be wise to put in new rings? Again, I have no idea what, when, why, or who touched this last. I will be somewhat stock as decribed and some day the natural mods of bigger turbo, etc.

Advise on parts to buy and who to get them from.

Thanks,

 

[54Rich]

Well, I've managed to reduce the engine to a bunch of stuff laid out on the floor. When I pulled the timing cover, there was so much extra RTV I'd say the chain has been replaced, but with a nylon gear, seems sloppy as well. Anyhow, removed the manifold and noticed that there were two different head gaskets, one thicker than the other I think someone popped one and only replaced that one. So since it was that far apart, might as well pull the heads. What I noticed is that each head has two ports in the middle, for coolant and two below. These were covered with a gasket and just a small hole, in the gasket, allows coolant to flow? Is this right?

So I need the following parts, is there a perfered brand?

Comp 980 springs
head gaskets
timing chain and gear set
manifold gasket

I have a couple sets of the other gaskets that I'll need.

Going to replace the water pump, cause I have a new one.

It's down to the block, cam, crank. The rotating assy looks very good, cam looks great and no issues with the cyc boars. I'd guess it was rebuilt at some time? Can't find a SN anywhere on the block

Since it's down this far, would it be wise to put in new rings? Again, I have no idea what, when, why, or who touched this last. I will be somewhat stock as decribed and some day the natural mods of bigger turbo, etc.

Advise on parts to buy and who to get them from.

Thanks,

 

[54Rich]

No idea why it posted twice and my spelling SUCKS

I found the SN number and it matches the car

 

[turbofabricator]

Use factory replacement head gaskets from Fel-Pro. #9441pt. Use any brand intake gasket, but might as well be Fel-Pro, too. Use a cork oil pan gasket from RJC, Fullthrottle, Cottons, ect. or buy one from ROL, Corteco, or Detroit brand gaskets. Use silicone on both sides of the pan gasket, but a light film. Ditch the rubber side seals all together on the rear main, and use a tube of Ultra-Black silicone in a caulking gun (available at most parts stores). Smear a light film of seal on the main cap parting line aft of the bolt holes, but all the way across. Then install a lightly oiled neoprene seal, and clock the parting lines about .150" out of the block on one side and out of the cap on the other, so the parting lines do not match the block/cap's. (make sure the lip is facing the inside of the engine) Then lube the bearing with 30wt. and torque the bolts to 100ft. lbs with oil on the threads and under the heads. Then pump (with the caulking gun) the Ultra-Black into the side seal passages. You will be able to see sealant ooze out of the sides of the block, both into and out of it. Make SURE the cap and block are VERY clean and dry, first. Use brake clean, and then use more. Use lint free rags to wipe it all down. Same with the oil pan and pan rail. NO oil residue allowed!
Buy a set of ARP head bolts, too. Do not re-use the stock head bolts. Use teflon pipe sealant on the bolt threads, after you run a thread chaser through the bolt holes. Use the supplied ARP grease on both sides of the included washers, and be SURE the beveled side of the washer is facing up (under the bolt head)
With the heads and manifold off, do a little port work, too. It can be done by yourself. Then have a valve job and have the springs installed at the same time. I have posted alot of info about head porting, if you want to give it a whirl. You probably can't hurt power, unless you grind too far into water. Even a drill motor can work. (it'll prolly kill the bearings in it, though. ) Good luck.

 

[54Rich]

Use factory replacement head gaskets from Fel-Pro. #9441pt. Use any brand intake gasket, but might as well be Fel-Pro, too. Use a cork oil pan gasket from RJC, Fullthrottle, Cottons, ect. or buy one from ROL, Corteco, or Detroit brand gaskets. Use silicone on both sides of the pan gasket, but a light film. Ditch the rubber side seals all together on the rear main, and use a tube of Ultra-Black silicone in a caulking gun (available at most parts stores). Smear a light film of seal on the main cap parting line aft of the bolt holes, but all the way across. Then install a lightly oiled neoprene seal, and clock the parting lines about .150" out of the block on one side and out of the cap on the other, so the parting lines do not match the block/cap's. (make sure the lip is facing the inside of the engine) Then lube the bearing with 30wt. and torque the bolts to 100ft. lbs with oil on the threads and under the heads. Then pump (with the caulking gun) the Ultra-Black into the side seal passages. You will be able to see sealant ooze out of the sides of the block, both into and out of it. Make SURE the cap and block are VERY clean and dry, first. Use brake clean, and then use more. Use lint free rags to wipe it all down. Same with the oil pan and pan rail. NO oil residue allowed!
Buy a set of ARP head bolts, too. Do not re-use the stock head bolts. Use teflon pipe sealant on the bolt threads, after you run a thread chaser through the bolt holes. Use the supplied ARP grease on both sides of the included washers, and be SURE the beveled side of the washer is facing up (under the bolt head)
With the heads and manifold off, do a little port work, too. It can be done by yourself. Then have a valve job and have the springs installed at the same time. I have posted alot of info about head porting, if you want to give it a whirl. You probably can't hurt power, unless you grind too far into water. Even a drill motor can work. (it'll prolly kill the bearings in it, though. ) Good luck.

Thank you