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Engine rebuild parts

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TWISTER

Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2003
Messages
790
Im getting ready to rebuild my engine this fall and Im starting to gather parts. So far I am having the stock heads ported and polished and plan on a roller cam kit possibly the Full throttle 210/215 I plan on using the stock crank. Machine and head work will be minimal for cost as it is a favor but what about rockers? Do I need roller rockers for the roller cam? Someone said bent pushrods were a problem they had. What about the bottom end? I dont want a girdle but not sure what to do. My goals will be mid 10s maybe after a tubo and injector upgrade. Thanks for any advice.
 
When I bough parts for mine I was told that they aren't required but make getting the valvetrain geometry perfect easier.

And I found a new set of H&S on here on the cheap so I bought them.
 
Spend the money while you're already in there and do it right the first time. I used forged everything and used an RJC girdle. Seemed as sturdy if not less labor intensive than the billet mains...

Now, I know this is expensive, just ask my wallet:eek: However, if you take your time and build it with all the heavy duty stuff then you will have peace of mind and not have to worry about breaking stuff.

I'm pretty sure the engine I have can handle 10's. I'll probably never go that fast but it's nice to know I can if I want to... Kinda like driving a TR in the first place- I drive like an old lady (don't need the tickets) but it's nice to know I can open up a nice can of whoop a$$ if I need to...

Just my .02 (I only wanted to do this one time)
 
Make sure you modify the rocker stands on those heads before you install them on the engine. They edges must be ground down too accept the roller rockers.
 
Make sure you modify the rocker stands on those heads before you install them on the engine. They edges must be ground down too accept the roller rockers.

We learned that on the last car. Oops. Rockers loosened up. I plan on using the stock rockers but as for the girdle I have not seen one that didnt leak. Still up in the air on that but was leaning towards main caps.
 
I have never used a girdle on 10.50 and slower, I do however use the the 3 billet mains.

Roller rockers are not needed but you will need to measure and purchase the correct length push rod. Roller rockers are nice, not needed but will make setting up the valve train a little easier and controllable.

Stock crank will be fine as will a good set of stock rods. I even purchased new ones from Wber with SPS hardware for a very affordable price.

SPS hardware will function fine but if you are intent on using the ARP you will need the rods cleaned up for the ARP hardware.

Pistons go with a a good forging, I use the Diamond for a couple of years now and have had zero issues.

other items you will need are gaskets, bearings main, rod and cam.

machine work

You might consider purchasing a Weber short block where all this is already done. I am thinnking they are around 2500 bucks. Just something to think about.
 
weber

You might consider purchasing a Weber short block where all this is already done. I am thinnking they are around 2500 bucks. Just something to think about.
x2:biggrin:
 
Thanks for all the help here. So far this is what I am doing with the mains and pistons but the machine work will be none to minimal in dollars. I am howerever looking into the stroker kit but cant justify it. My plan so far is as follows:
210/215 roller kit
diamond forged pistons
double roller timing set
stock heads ported and polished w/ bigger exhaust valves
3 main caps
arp bolts
stock crank
I will still run the TE 44 with the PTE .85 housing aith 009s until funds become available for a turbo and injector upgrade. Hoping for low 11s with this the 10s with the turbo upgrade. If Im out of line here please chime in. I just want the best way to go about this and do it once. I dont plan on a cage so we will have to see what happens.
 
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