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I purchased this car with 160k on the clock not running. Previous owner said it had a slight knock and then he parked it. He neglected to tell me that it was parked for 4 years until after I drove 6 hours from SE KY to E. VA to trailer it home.

When I got it home all of the vacuum lines were dry rotted and the car looked like it needed to be gone through before starting. I decided to pulle the engine to have it cleaned up a bit and then discovered that the TC bolts were loose (supposedly the source of knock)- I figured I'd just have the engine refreshed. I took it to the machine shop and they tore it down. The crank was way out of spec even at it's best point. There were grooves in the crank and the rods. They're going to tank and magnaflux the block and heads this week and then we'll go from there. (I have printed and taken the specs of the engine to them).

I wanted to take the engine to a "buick expert" but 1. there aren't any that I know of very close (my guy is ten minutes away and across the street from my office) 2. The "experts" I have talked to all want $5k for an engine rebuild and I'm not ready to spend that much money on an engine for a car I rarely drive 3. I understand that the "experts" ensure that the job is done right but I just cannot fathom a machine shop being in business for 20-30 years or more without being able to do some basic machine work. I know there is stuff that is not basic but I figure if I can read up enough and ask all the right questions and use the best possble components in my build, I should be able to accomplish a build on a more reasonable budget.

I do not race my cars so I suppose I don't really need to go overboard with Forged stuff but I figure it's better to build it right the first time. Besides, I'm in no rush... I just want to take my time and learn all I can so that I can make sure the job is done properly and within a reasonable budget.

Good attitude and perfect outlook....I agree totally.....

I would prefer to have my car look at by someone who knows these engines....but that's not to say there are persons who are as just as capable if not just as qualified....

Simply put.....it all boils down to following directions.....

Good luck...let us know how it turns out:)
 
I have been doing some reading and have spoken with some engine builders. It seems to me that the majority of people delude themselves into thinking that they don't want too much out of their engine rebuild. Personally, I don't care about racing. I just want to be fast enough to wipe that stupid smirk off the face of a Z06 owner who thinks their brand new $70+K car is all that. I like to humble people like that who think they are big and bad because they have a big checkbook. In fact, nothing pleases me more than doing so in a 20 year old "brick".:biggrin:

Anyway, I plan to build a car that is capable of mid 10's and dial it back for regular street driving. My idea is that it is better to overbuild and not need it than to underbuild and blow up the engine or end up wishing there was more...

I'll see how it goes and keep everyone posted.
 
Block has been tanked and magnafluxed. It's ready to go.

Is there anywhere I can order a rotating assembly or do I have to do this piece by piece?

Keep in mind I want to do forged everything...
 
You doing roller or hydraulic camshaft?

There was a guy selling a forged crank on here a few weeks don't know if he ever moved it or not may want to do a search...

If you go roller check out the roller camshafts from Full Throttle....come in a full kit...
 
not sure. First time rebuilding an engine. What's the benefit of one over the other?
 
not sure. First time rebuilding an engine. What's the benefit of one over the other?

As I understand it and bear with me here......hydraulic camshafts are almost stock like in their operation...Of course you can go from small to large in their duration.....they make good power..have lengthy power bands and so on and so forth......

Roller camshafts can take a beating. They can be used with regular oils without the addition of an additive (like ZDDP) and offer quicker power at the drop of a hat, or the press of an accelerator...Roller camshafts are the way to go in my opinion especially with a build like the one you are considering....the only drawback is of course the price. Full Throttle sells a nice kit for about 800-900 bucks.....but if you consider the price of a hydraulic camshaft which is about 150-175 as you can see the difference is huge. But the gains of a roller over a hydraulic are many. Also if you do go hydraulic you ALWAYS need to use an additive ZDDP once again..

However if you are doing budget.....I like the 206-206 camshaft from Weber or Comp Cams, Erson, Isky,,,etc or even a split 204-214 duration cam from Speed Pro are excellent and good choices. Lots of guys have used them and with good results.

Rollers are more about dependability, chances of wiping a cam lobe are slim next to none if possible...power is quicker on tap also......and they don't need an additive unless you are like me and anal and cautious....and use one anyway......

I know I repeated myself in this thread and I hope others will chime in with their experiences, but alot comes down to your choice what do you want?

Budget?

Power?

Answer that and you will make your camshaft selection........
 
Just to clarify some terminology....

Hydraulic flat tappet- it's what came stock and is prone to wiping out. But it's cheap $$.

Hydraulic roller- it's what most people (including myself) use and recommend for daily drivers or street/strip use.

Solid roller- usually used for high rpm race applications.

Hyd roller is the way to go. It's a bit pricey but this is one of those things I'd recommend saving money for. You can make good power with any of the 3 styles of camshafts. But if it's a daily driver then even better to have a hyd roller just for durability's sake alone.
 
Good info. Thnaks. I'll have to see what the wallet will be able to handle. I'm working on a few too many projects right now.;)
 
Roller cams are around $1000. Hyd.cams are a $200 and will work for your application. Hyd. cams wear out at first start up during break in. Its not normal for them to go out after break in, think what you want. I have 308,000 miles on my 94 GMC pick-up and the hyd. cam is not wore out. If the cam failed it could of been from other issues.
 
Billet center main caps are $179.00 for two. They have to be cut to fit the block though, Make sure they are fit right also.
 
I was just checking out Full Throttle and they sell Hydrolic Roller Cams by RevolutionX for as low as $179.99 (206/212)

The complete kit is $844.

I don't know anything about this stuff so I will need to read some more. If you guys have more input please don't hesitate.

I just checked out RJC's recipie book and the cam he used for the 9 and 10 second cars was a Comp cams flat tappet roller 218/218. Any input on this cam?
 
I was just checking out Full Throttle and they sell Hydrolic Roller Cams by RevolutionX for as low as $179.99 (206/212)

The complete kit is $844.

I don't know anything about this stuff so I will need to read some more. If you guys have more input please don't hesitate.

I just checked out RJC's recipie book and the cam he used for the 9 and 10 second cars was a Comp cams flat tappet roller 218/218. Any input on this cam?

A 218/218 cam might be too big for a street car....if you were doing track runs on a regular basis it would work great...some guys run them on the street though....personally I would stay with a small grind like a 206/206 roller...
 
Correct me if I'm wrong. I went to flatlander and they have a Comp Cam kit 212/212 with everything else $245. IS the 212/212 better suited to what I need? Didn't see the 206/206 in regular hyrdolic flat tappet only in roller $779 for everything...
 
I would believe a 212/212 might be great for your car. It would provide enough cam that's for sure.....but that 218/218 is a bit of a stretch....
 
If you can find a forged crank good luck....do a search on them...some guys have gotten lucky with them, some haven't....

I am going to do a stock turbo crank but I am going to have it cryoed
 
I've found a few forged cranks but damn they're expensive!:eek: :eek:

I'll find something. I always do. Just gotta be persistent.;)
 
Get a stocker....unless you are absolutely set on having a forged one..

Can't see spending that much money on a crank that dependent upon which company made them, you still have to invest more money into machining it to fit the block.

Why forged anyway? You being cautious?
 
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