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The way I figure, Forged is going to be as strong and light as possible. Along with the diamond pistons I think I'm set on, I will have nothing to worry about.

I've already picked up an RJC girdle.

I don't plan on racing but I would like to make the engine as strong as possible within my limited budget. If I go with stock parts I'll always have that little feeling in the back of my mind that maybe I should have spent the extra $$- for me it's peace of mind.
 
The way I figure, Forged is going to be as strong and light as possible. Along with the diamond pistons I think I'm set on, I will have nothing to worry about.

I've already picked up an RJC girdle.

I don't plan on racing but I would like to make the engine as strong as possible within my limited budget. If I go with stock parts I'll always have that little feeling in the back of my mind that maybe I should have spent the extra $$- for me it's peace of mind.

I think you are fooling yourself when you keep on saying "limited" budget....;)

There is nothing budget about that bottom end you are developing. Sounds good though....hey it will definitely be strong though.

On another note I just visited Flatlander racing's site, I did see the 206 roller advertised on there. Might want to check again....also did some interesting reading on the lifters that come with the roller cams. Might want to check up on that as well.

Good luck and keep us posted again....
Steve Chambers
 
I know I keep saying limited budget and for the most part I intend to stand by that - or die trying:biggrin: :biggrin:

My thinking is that if I spend money on the big stuff, I can skimp a little on the smaller stuff that, if it were to break or need changing later down the line I would not have to break the bank replacing them.

Again, I could be wrong. We'll see:)
 
I know I keep saying limited budget and for the most part I intend to stand by that - or die trying:biggrin: :biggrin:

My thinking is that if I spend money on the big stuff, I can skimp a little on the smaller stuff that, if it were to break or need changing later down the line I would not have to break the bank replacing them.

Again, I could be wrong. We'll see:)

"Skimping" "Not breaking the bank?"

Yeah right let me know how that turns out for you....
 
i got some parts for sell call my and i can help you out if you dont want to spend alot of money
 
Why are considering a rebuild at 160k? Is there a problem or do you just want to freshen/beef up the bottom end?

The reason I ask is depending upon the condition the engine should still be in good shape with 160k. I had a car with over that and it ran really good. Also my uncles car had over that and saw the track a good bit. That car currently has over 300k on it, yeah it could use a rebuild but still runs great!

AGREED

This is a copy and paste from the very last post I made:

I must ask why you want to go in?

If you must rebuild I would go with a stroker kit and then steel caps/girdle, either or both. Then you will be ready for some serious action. If you are not wanting to crank it up hard then rebuild only if something is wrong/broken.
 
I'm not sure what all is involved as far as parts are concerned so I cannot say for sure what all the parts will cost me. The labor will be next to nothing. I know this is a rich mans game so I know that I'll need to spend some money. I just want to get the best bang for the buck while building a solid bototm end.

As for the reason for the rebuild, it's simple- I bought the car as a basket case because I hate to see TR's get parted or crushed. So, on my mission to save this car, I figured it might need a small amount of work. Unfortunately it needs more than I anticipated. I initially planned to only have the engine freshened up a bit and reinstall it and call it a day. However, now that I've discovered that the crank and some of the rods are trashed, I figure why not upgrade and build a super strong botom end? I don't race and I really don't need a super strong bottom end but on the other hand if I did want to race I would feel hesitant if I didn't have a heavy duty bottom end.

I have another GN that is very healthy and pulls hard any time I need it to but I always worry that since the guts are stock, they might go out when I least expect it- or can afford it. I've seen some of the carnage (ie: block windows) and would hate to damage my block because I did not spend a few hundred dollars more to beef it up while I was already in there.

As always, I thank everyone for their input on this thread. It really helps me to decide on certain things and has given me some useful information I might otherwise not have had.

As I progress, I will keep everyone posted.

Sidenote: Just went to the machine shop today and saw a set of GN1 heads sitting on the counter (early christmas?;) ). I thought it was odd since I do not know of any TR's in my immediate area. Well, it just so happened the owner of the heads came in and I had a chance to meet him. He runs a 10 second GN in the next county over from me. Small world! :cool:
 
Minor update. I haven't posted in a while because I have been scouring the world wide web searching for parts - for various projects...

Thanks to a fellow TR guy, I have picked up a Forged Eagle Crank, Forged Diamond Pistons attached to Oliver rods, along with my RJC girdle- I think this is going to be a healthy engine...

Now on to the Cam selection... Engine builder says to go roller...

Having a hard time swallowing the $800+ price tag. Are there any deals going on that I have not yet seen??

Please post up...
 
Here is my build sheet mid to high 9's:

Part Description Cost


Stroker Crankshaft CAT231A 3.625 $450.00
10 over JE Pistons 8:5:1 Compression $480.00
JE H.Duty Wrist Pins $100.00
3.810 Ring Set $100.00
RJC Girdle
RJC Underdrive Pulley
70 MM Accufab $500.00
Buick 6.350x.927 K1 Rods $490.00
V6 Buick Main Bearings
Federal-Mogul Wide Journal Rod Bearings
BHJ Internal Balancer w/Trigger Wheel ENGBHJ-int or ATI $405.00
JW Flywheel (SFI Certified) JW93007 $200.00
Champion GN-1 14 Bolt Aluminum Heads HE100-14 $1,600.00
Push Rods Guides $150.00
ARP Head Studs $150.00
Scorpion Roller Rocker Set Up $300.00
Head Porting $500.00
Billet Roller Comp Cam (If Needed) 234/234 580 lift $350.00
Comp Push Rods $85.00
H&R Motor Mounts $200.00
LT1 Starter $135.00
DLS External oil system $550.00
CSR Trans Sheild $280.00
SX Fuel Pump $500.00
SX Regulator $144.00
SX Fuel Filter $80.00
Fuel Cell $250.00
Lines and Fittings $500.00
Champion Alt Bracket $250.00
RJC Underdrive Racing Pulley $149.00
MSD Voltage Booster $305.00
Aluminum Oil Pan $625.00
Meizere Water Pump, Inlet, and Relay $438.00
TA Stainless HEADERS $1,025.00
Header Ceramic Coating - NitroPlate $200.00
Champion Fuel Rails for Stock Intake $249.00
Cometic Head Gaskets $150.00
Limit Engineering GTQ-70S TURBO .85AR $1,450.00
4 Inch Cold Air Kit Polished $285.00
Fast Fuel System With extras $2,355.00
GN Performance Radiator $450.00
Build Labor for Engine $1,200.00
Coolant Tank $35.00
Vacuum Block $42.00
200 AMP Alenator $450.00
HR Sway Bar $550.00
Moroso Front Lowering Springs
Adjustable Drag Shocks
Mosler Axles, Welded Spool
Ultimate Diff Cover with Supports
Stock Ring Gear 3.42
3.5 inch Down Pipe and Coating - $585

Cost $19,292.00

All purchased through Kip Asplund, Cotton's, DLS, and Hartline. Jegs for all the fittings and non buick specific stuff.

Billet caps - Kip can get you some. Kip on the board

Holy crap that's a ton of dough! :eek: Now I know why people stick to building Chevy engines.
 
No one else has any input on the roller cam?

I am being told that it is better for durability and reliability as well as power. I've seen full throttle's kit but I also noticed "spoolfool's" rant on clicky lifters and his quest to find something better. I wonder if I can mix and match?:confused:
 
No one else has any input on the roller cam?

I am being told that it is better for durability and reliability as well as power. I've seen full throttle's kit but I also noticed "spoolfool's" rant on clicky lifters and his quest to find something better. I wonder if I can mix and match?:confused:

You can mix and match....

Order some Morel lifters from TA Performance I believe they are running a sale on them right now...SUPPOSED to be much more quiet than the Comp Cam lifters everyone has been complaining about....

K-Motion valve spring locks and keepers from Full Throttle...Pushrods also from Full Throttle...Cam Button..from.....you guessed it.....Full Throttle...

There...A Mix but yet a Match...;) Good luck and keep us posted...
Steve Chambers
 
The Morell lifters are Part# TA_V1412 -$290.00

I need to look up the other stuff. From what I read Mike was happy with these and I know he's picky about his car...
 
800$ for a roller cam???? I'm looking at my build sheet and mine didn't cost that much unless I add the cost of the lifters with it. Now bare with me I don't know how to change the oil on a car..:D I just pay for what I need.
 
800$ for a roller cam???? I'm looking at my build sheet and mine didn't cost that much unless I add the cost of the lifters with it. Now bare with me I don't know how to change the oil on a car..:D I just pay for what I need.
Well i will pray for you, and you best look long and hard for someone trust worthy!
 
what is an average labor hours to remove the engine, do an engine refresh, install cam, lifters, new seals, etc, reinstall engine. im trying to get a ball park for cost, i know its only approximate
thanks
 
Labor costs or labor and parts? Some of the parts you will need will nickel and dime you to death. Average rebuild is usually quoted around $5k or so. Not sure if it includes removal and reinstallation.
 
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