Engine start question
- Thread starter eagleguy
- Start date
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When you first turn the ignition key, does your fuel pump start & run for about 2 seconds?
If you still have the door chime working, you may not be able to hear the pump run. If the pump is not starting, you probably need to replace the fuel pump relay located on the passenger side fender-well.
There is a back-up fuel pump circuit that will start the pump after the oil pressure exceeds 4 psi.
If you still have the door chime working, you may not be able to hear the pump run. If the pump is not starting, you probably need to replace the fuel pump relay located on the passenger side fender-well.
There is a back-up fuel pump circuit that will start the pump after the oil pressure exceeds 4 psi.
Yes it does.
Hmmm... Well, so much for the easy fix.
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge that you can connect to the fuel injector rail & see from inside the car? If you don't have one, you should buy one. Try to find one with about a 4' long hose on it so you can run it from the injector rail to the windshield. You need a gauge with a scale that reads 43 lbs. plus an extra pound of pressure per pound of boost that you plan to run. I have an inexpensive 0-100 lb. gauge that I think I picked up from Autozone.
Find out what your base fuel pressure is with the vacuum line removed from the fuel pressure regulator.
Another useful tool is an inline spark testing light.
If you have the correct fuel pressure & spark at the correct time, it should start within a few revolutions.
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge that you can connect to the fuel injector rail & see from inside the car? If you don't have one, you should buy one. Try to find one with about a 4' long hose on it so you can run it from the injector rail to the windshield. You need a gauge with a scale that reads 43 lbs. plus an extra pound of pressure per pound of boost that you plan to run. I have an inexpensive 0-100 lb. gauge that I think I picked up from Autozone.
Find out what your base fuel pressure is with the vacuum line removed from the fuel pressure regulator.
Another useful tool is an inline spark testing light.
If you have the correct fuel pressure & spark at the correct time, it should start within a few revolutions.
Bought the car with 26K back in January with the listed mods. Since then I replaced the plugs, wires, hoses, antifreeze and belts. Used same Autolite plugs and gap as already in the car and as recommended on this forum. Overall it runs fine but it just seems to take too long to crank over.
I believe so.
I don't think so. Maybe if there was something wrong with either the chip or the injectors, but that is doubtful.
Do you have a Scanmaster on the car?
I don't know what to look for without more information. Check out this site & see if that helps: http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/troubshootgeneral.htm
My car took longer to start than usual a day or two before the MAF failed.
How long has this condition been going on? Ever since you owned the car or after doing any work on it? we need info the more the better.
From the beginning
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- May 26, 2001
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My suggestion will not cost you a dime! 
Take a marker and draw a line on the cam sensor to the timing cover as a baseline index.
Loosen the cam sensor and move it slightly. You may have to do this a few times in each direction to determine where the engine is "happy".
I know these are "electric" cars, but first and foremost they are mechanical.
Parts wear and things change like the timing chain, which can and will affect performance.
This may or may not help, but it is simple and rather cheap, which is the route I try to take when trouble shooting.
Take a marker and draw a line on the cam sensor to the timing cover as a baseline index.
Loosen the cam sensor and move it slightly. You may have to do this a few times in each direction to determine where the engine is "happy".
I know these are "electric" cars, but first and foremost they are mechanical.
Parts wear and things change like the timing chain, which can and will affect performance.
This may or may not help, but it is simple and rather cheap, which is the route I try to take when trouble shooting.
Gave your idea a try but all seems to be spot on. Thanks for the suggestion.My suggestion will not cost you a dime!
Take a marker and draw a line on the cam sensor to the timing cover as a baseline index.
Loosen the cam sensor and move it slightly. You may have to do this a few times in each direction to determine where the engine is "happy".
I know these are "electric" cars, but first and foremost they are mechanical.
Parts wear and things change like the timing chain, which can and will affect performance.
This may or may not help, but it is simple and rather cheap, which is the route I try to take when trouble shooting.
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