Engine tapping very loud after 10 minute warmup and getting worse!,

[Tim Cucci]

I've always had a loud roller valvetrain and even swapped CC lifters for Morrells and pushrods with loose and tight preloads trying to quiet down the noise. Now I'm thinking it may be a wrist pin or something else. It seems to be louder at the front of the engine and getting worse. I've tried to point it out with a stethoscope but can't be sure. Very quiet until warmup. Anybody got ideas before I tear into this thing. Stock , standard short block with Revolution Roller cam and Morrell lifters with custom sized pushrods and preload on each lifter. Ported and polished stock iron heads with custom SS Ferra Valves.
I'm getting ready to take it apart. Any ideas??

 

[TURBOELKY]

What's your oil pressure doing?

 

[Tim Cucci]

Oil pressure is upward around 60 psi cold start and 15 psi or better depending on oil type at hot idle. I just put 5 w 20 in it just to try pumping any sticky lifters. 15 psi with 5 w 20 at hot idle. Pressure rises well with rpm also. This engine has been built for around 6 years now but has less than 2000 miles on it. It's always had what I thought was lifter noise and it did sound a lot better when I replaced the CC 853s a couple of years ago with Morrells from Weber. But now after a few hammer runs it's getting worse. I'm thinking piston slap or something else. Can this be a cam walk or chain noise? I do have the roller button on the cam.

 

[Nigel]

Is the short block stock? Never been disassembled? Are you using stock style rockers and if so did you measure for pushrods, i.e. use a length checker during assembly? Last point, the cam censor can rattle and cause noise.

 

[Tim Cucci]

Short block is stock / standard with exception of the crank being replaced with another Turbo stock 10/10 crank.
No bore done. Block was checked and line bored only. Stock rockers. Preload has been set with a pushrods tool and preload has been set from 020 to 060 a couple of times using custom pushrods from Trend. Pushrod adjustments and checker have been done with a micrometer. One thing I do have is a set of PP stock heads that have been reworked wit the beehive springs that came with the kit. They really look very tight on coil clearance.

 

[Tim Cucci]

Cam sensor has been replaced also. No noticeable metal in oil when changed.

 

[dank GN]

What ever it is I wouldn't run it till I inspected the valve train / main bearings

 

[BMR]

My experience with piston slap is it gets quieter as the engine warm up and everything expands.

I would pull the pan and check the rod bearings if it were mine. Those usually start out quiet and get louder with heat.

 

[TURBOTIMMER]

Did you have the rotating assembly rebalanced when you replaced the crank? Years ago, I did the same thing. Swapped in a standard turbo crank when I found out my thrust was wiped out. After a couple thousand miles, I tore it down and found my main bearings wiped out.

 

[Nigel]

Agree with the guys above, probably wise to take some time checking things out.

 

[Tim Cucci]

I did have the crank and rotating assembly balanced. My first crank had the thrust face and bearing wiped so I am familiar with that situation . I think it would be just as easy to go ahead and pull the engine and start looking. To me it just about as easy to take the engine out tear it down and be sure. I do actually have another 10/10 crank and .020 fresh 109 block. Need some rods and pistons.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

B4 U tear it down, check the crank end play...

 

[BMR]

Did you figure out what caused the thrust problem the first time?

 

[Tim Cucci]

Did you figure out what caused the thrust problem the first time?

I was told foot braking with boost is what causes the thrust face to wear excessively. I do foot brake a lot.

 

[No disintegrations]

Make a video so we can hear it.

 

[TURBOTIMMER]

I was told foot braking with boost is what causes the thrust face to wear excessively. I do foot brake a lot.

Yup. Same here. Stock converter ballooned. 10-15psi launches on slicks.

 

[PSID6]

Cut the oil filter open. Everyone should own a filter cutting tool and open up your filter every oil change.

 

[Tim Cucci]

Will do video tomorrow. Checked endplay on crank and got .005" movement total endplay. It was tight when assembled. Seems like I remember .004 at assembly.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Foot brake or trans brake.... Both load the converter. Both force the converter to the flex plate.
Check the pressure..

 

[Tim Cucci]

Update! Trying to get my video file on here but no success yet ! But I did get under the car after it warmed up for about 10 minutes and put the stethescope on the oil pan and block bottom end. Sounds like somebody has a hammer in there!! I have great oil pressure though??? I do remember having around .015 on some of the rod side clearances and now I'm thinking that may be what I'm hearing?? Regardless I'm pulling the engine very soon like next day or two. Looking for good parts now. I think the crank is turned 10/10 now and the block is standard with stock pistons. The rods have been refurbished twice. I'll need some parts. Crank, rods and pistons. I'll start a new thread on parts and rebuild now.