Entry Level tuners
- Thread starter RED LS1
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RED LS1
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It is first on my list.
But just for reference I took KidGlocks 2.0 program and it worked in my car with my 1.3. IT didn't work well but I think thats because it's looking for the differences in his car.
I am going to try to get that 2.0 in today. In the mean time can you tell if my timing on the botom end was on the low side? I can feel the extra timing boost in Kidglock's tune and I need to get mine there.
But just for reference I took KidGlocks 2.0 program and it worked in my car with my 1.3. IT didn't work well but I think thats because it's looking for the differences in his car.
I am going to try to get that 2.0 in today. In the mean time can you tell if my timing on the botom end was on the low side? I can feel the extra timing boost in Kidglock's tune and I need to get mine there.
I put together a new timing map for you , but watch for knock use 93 at least. You will have you use the paste from file to install it, under the file menu tab top left, and cick ok to overwrite. save your program under a new name or you will lose your old timing map.
RED LS1
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Awesome. Can't wait to check it out.
RED LS1
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And thanks!!
On another note. I opened up my dump and boost increased from 18 psi to 23!!!
I'm guessing you guys run different tunes for closed and open dump driving?
On another note. I opened up my dump and boost increased from 18 psi to 23!!!
I'm guessing you guys run different tunes for closed and open dump driving?
RED LS1
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Speaking of O2 corrections. What kind of corrections should be taking place while driving around and cruising? I'm seeing some numbers that have a negitive symbol in front of it. I first noticed them when I tried Kidglock's tune so I reverted back to mine until I can verify it's normal. When I got back to my tune I noticed that mine makes negitive corrections as well.
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Yeah that's why you need the software upgrade. There should not be any negative numbers in your fuel map.
A word on using the alky. Your combo is not much different than mine. Set the alky at 8 psi, that will be the point at which it starts to activate. Don't worry it's progressive. Turn the gain knob to 6 and let it do it's thing. Remember this when trying to tune with alky, you will end up trimming the fuel map to compensate for the alky being sprayed into the motor. Meaning your VE numbers will decrease under more boost. Shoot for an AF ratio of 11 to 1 to make power, above 13 psi or so. Keep the timing conservative and get the fuel map right first, you can increase timing later.
When you add methanol fuel you end up reducing the amount of gasoline being injected by 15% or so on the VE table. Methanol cools the intake charge which keeps detonation away has an octane rating of 106 which means more boost and timing.
Set up your data logger with just the parameters you need. KPA is a must, PSIG, rpm, Fuel correction. You can name the dash and then select it to data log with. You can select different sensors to trigger the datalog. Personally F8, and then the space bar works for me. Then I make my run.
Once you see where you are at you can reduce or trim the VE table to get to the desired AF ratios and get the WB corrections within 1 to 2 %. Overlay your datalog over the VE table it will show exactly which cells to adjust. Look at the correction percentages to guide your changes. If you are 10% rich in certain cells reduce the VE numbers in that cell by 10%
A note about your VE map as a whole, if you make drastic changes in certain cells and the surrounding cells are way higher or lower the motor may surge or buck. A smooth fuel map makes for a smooth running motor. I'm talking about big changes, the FAST unit can handle a lot so don't be afraid to make changes. Read up on percentage trim (positive or negative) and interpolation. It's in the HELP files.
Alky and pump gas work really well but it took me a long time to figure it out. You can too.
A word on using the alky. Your combo is not much different than mine. Set the alky at 8 psi, that will be the point at which it starts to activate. Don't worry it's progressive. Turn the gain knob to 6 and let it do it's thing. Remember this when trying to tune with alky, you will end up trimming the fuel map to compensate for the alky being sprayed into the motor. Meaning your VE numbers will decrease under more boost. Shoot for an AF ratio of 11 to 1 to make power, above 13 psi or so. Keep the timing conservative and get the fuel map right first, you can increase timing later.
When you add methanol fuel you end up reducing the amount of gasoline being injected by 15% or so on the VE table. Methanol cools the intake charge which keeps detonation away has an octane rating of 106 which means more boost and timing.
Set up your data logger with just the parameters you need. KPA is a must, PSIG, rpm, Fuel correction. You can name the dash and then select it to data log with. You can select different sensors to trigger the datalog. Personally F8, and then the space bar works for me. Then I make my run.
Once you see where you are at you can reduce or trim the VE table to get to the desired AF ratios and get the WB corrections within 1 to 2 %. Overlay your datalog over the VE table it will show exactly which cells to adjust. Look at the correction percentages to guide your changes. If you are 10% rich in certain cells reduce the VE numbers in that cell by 10%
A note about your VE map as a whole, if you make drastic changes in certain cells and the surrounding cells are way higher or lower the motor may surge or buck. A smooth fuel map makes for a smooth running motor. I'm talking about big changes, the FAST unit can handle a lot so don't be afraid to make changes. Read up on percentage trim (positive or negative) and interpolation. It's in the HELP files.
Alky and pump gas work really well but it took me a long time to figure it out. You can too.
RED LS1
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Thanks! I really appreciate your input everyone. I am finished with my timing map and learning for now. I want to move on to the AE map so I need all the info I can get.
Thanks again! I'll be reading for a while
Thanks again! I'll be reading for a while
Negative correction isn't any worse than positive correction. Just try to get the table as close to zero as you can.
I'm pretty sure he was talking about negative O2 correction, which is perfectly fine.
No need to move to the AE maps unless your VE map is perfect. Your going to get negative correction on decel and postive correction depending on the what gear your in, sometimes driving around the cells will over lap depending on tps angle and what gear your in., so you will never get it perfect. I have a tendency to limit the correction to 10-15 % amount so eliminate huge swings at low speeds.
RED LS1
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I understand. So the car has point where it's going to be making corrections depending on the driving style or situation.
I meant the VE table. I don't even know what an AE table is, lol. I want to learn how to adjust the VE table. I'm going to start by reading the index. I did read some of it and the information was a bit conflicting. They have a lanscape graph but than provide contradicting information to support it.
Norbs, I checked out the timing map you provided. When I layed my log over top of it I was showing peak boost landing in the 24* timing area. Kind of scary.
I meant the VE table. I don't even know what an AE table is, lol. I want to learn how to adjust the VE table. I'm going to start by reading the index. I did read some of it and the information was a bit conflicting. They have a lanscape graph but than provide contradicting information to support it.
Norbs, I checked out the timing map you provided. When I layed my log over top of it I was showing peak boost landing in the 24* timing area. Kind of scary.
RED LS1
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Things to do.
1. upgrade to 2.0 (I already have it too)
2. Change plugs (been screwing with alot of changes)
3. Change knock sensor ( It's showing 0 knock 100% of the time)
4. Learn how to clean up my VE table.......
Stay tuned!!!
1. upgrade to 2.0 (I already have it too)
2. Change plugs (been screwing with alot of changes)
3. Change knock sensor ( It's showing 0 knock 100% of the time)
4. Learn how to clean up my VE table.......
Stay tuned!!!
RED LS1
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- Dec 31, 2001
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My car is running 17-18 PSI. With that being said if I ran that timing map it would have hit full boost at 24* timing.
I'm gonna try out the bottom end and adjust the top for the amount of boost i'm running.
I'm gonna try out the bottom end and adjust the top for the amount of boost i'm running.
RED LS1
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After thinking about it I wonder how the KPA numbers on the left colomn are listed. Sometimes there spread out in a weird way and they arn't showing the numbers that correspond with what i'm running. I'll have to check again later.
RED LS1
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Whats the trick to flashing this darn thing. No blue wire? I'm using a caspers harness. it does have a white wire?
Do I really have to take the radio out as thats the only thing I have found in a looong search.
Do I really have to take the radio out as thats the only thing I have found in a looong search.
If there is no wire you need to take PIN A21 and connect it to ground to flash...............no taking out the radio ?????????? From the manual.......
First start by going to our website, http://www.fuelairspark.com, and check for the latest update. It will look like “flash_update_1A.xfi”. Save the flash update file to C:\CComWP XFI. NOTE - If a message pops up stating that the file already exists and asking if you’d like to replace the existing file, you can click on Cancel since you already have the latest flash update file. You are now done downloading the Flash update.
To “flash” the update file into your XFI™ ECU, please follow these simple steps:
26.2 Downloading a Flash update
First start by going to our website, http://www.fuelairspark.com, and check for the latest update. It will look like “flash_update_1A.xfi”. Save the flash update file to C:\CComWP XFI. NOTE - If a message pops up stating that the file already exists and asking if you’d like to replace the existing file, you can click on Cancel since you already have the latest flash update file. You are now done downloading the Flash update.
26.3 Flashing the update into your ECU
To “flash” the update file into your XFI™ ECU, please follow these simple steps:
- Connect your computer to the ECU with the supplied Communication cable
- With the ignition switch in the off position, ground the blue wire found in pin A of the DIAG connector in your XFI harness or pin A21 of the ECU main connector.
- Turn the ignition switch to on but do not start the engine. The CRANK LED on the face of your ECU should start flashing.
- In the C-Com WP XFI™ software, click on FILE/Flash XFI ECU…
- In the lower left hand corner you will see a message stating “Flashing ECU” and the progress bar in the right hand corner will show that it’s loading also. This will usually happen very quickly so you may not have time to see them.
- You will then see a “Verifying Flash” message in the same place in the lower left hand corner along with the progress bar in the right hand corner as in step 5.
- You will now see a message asking you to “Restart the ECU”.
- Turn the ignition switch to off.
- Unground the blue wire from step number 2.
- The ECU can now be restarted. You are now done updating the ECU.
