External Gate vacuum routing

[1turbo6]

whats the proper way to run the vacuum lines for and external gate(ATR I think) right now it is run from the compressor housing to the nipple on the base. I will try to attach a pic. is this correct? how do you adjust boost?

 

[jurassic five 7]

yes, The way you'd adjust boost, would be screw in the screw on top of the wastegate and turn it IN, to increase boost. it'd look like this if you ran a boost controller though, if you dont run a controller, the boost will only be as much as the spring inside the wastegate. Which i have no idea what lb spring is inside there.

-Adam

 

[1turbo6]

does it need to return to the top of the gate?

 

[jurassic five 7]

does it need to return to the top of the gate?

What??? Look at the picture, it's self explanatory.

-Adam

 

[1turbo6]

I understand the diagram, but this car has no boost gage yet and I dont want to add boost controller yet. when I got the car it was not hooked to the top so I am just trying to figure out what the last owner was thinking.

 

[BadAssGN]

No boost gauge.... thats nucking futs....



Get a boost gauge....

 

[RUQWKNF]

If it simply had one vacuum line going from the turbos' hose barb fitting to the side of the wastegate, then the previous owner was adjusting the boost by the spring inside the wastegate. That type of install is what is called Open Loop method. Meaning the only thing that controls the boost level is the actual spring pressure that the spring inside the wastegate has. Some external style wastegates have an adjustment screw on the top of them, some don't. You can see on your ATR wastegate that it has a set screw with a jam nut. Tightening in on that set screw (Clockwise) effectively increases the spring rate, which will raise the boost. Some like to do this, some don't. Without having a good boost gauge inside the car and relying on the iffy at best stock LED boost lights, is disaster waiting to happen. I've seen the factory LED lights off by as much as 5-6psi before.


Get a good aftermarket boost gauge, mount it where you can easily see it during spirited driving, then install the manual boost control valve like the drawing above. With the vacuum lines hooked up like the drawing, that method is what is called closed loop. The adjustable valve routes the pressure that would normally vent to atmosphere, back to the top of the wastegate. The more pressure you put to the top of the wastegate, the stronger the spring rate will become. Effectively raising the boost level. When the adjustable valve is completely closed, this setup reverts back to spring only controlling the boost level. With the closed loop method, it is best to have the adjustable valve completely closed, set your base boost level with the adjustment screw. Once the base level is set, then you slowly crack open the adjustable valve during a WOT blast until your desired boost level is reached.


Typically I would set the base at or around 17-18psi when the valve is closed, then adjust the valve accordingly for the desired boost level. Don't forget to tighten up the jam nut once you have your base boost level set screw set. Just pay attention to your driving when adjusting the knob as things happen very quickly and don't go overkill on cranking on the knob. It usually only takes a half to 3/4s of a turn on the knob to start raising the boost. With practice, you will get the feel of the valve and the tension that is required on the knob in order to raise the boost. There is a slight amount of slack in most of the bleeder valves like the one pictured in the drawing. You will feel this slack when turning the knob.


What I've found is that once you start to feel this slack tightening up, that is the base point of adjustment. Meaning that from completely closed until that base point, nothing happens to the boost level. However, every boost valve is different, you will need to experiment/test the valve you have. Just don't get crazy with twisting and twisting the knob. No sense is blowing a head gasket while setting your boost. If while setting the boost, the boost runs away, just lift. Check your connections and retest. It may be necessary to port the turbine housings' wastegate hole to the same ID of the tubing that feeds the wastegate. This is especially true with P-trim turbine wheel equipped turbos.
Hope some of this helps a little.

Patrick

 

[1turbo6]

excellent info thank you . one more question the car is showing a code 31. I think (wastegate pulse absent) is this due to the older chip. how do I get it go out? is there a trick I can use? does it just need vacuum signal to the solenoid?

 

[oldwirehead]

question

So nothing goes back to the stock boost solenoid, you just plug it?

 

[87WE4BOOSTED]

So nothing goes back to the stock boost solenoid, you just plug it?

That's correct. The solenoid is left empty but plugged up electronically to kill the mal code.

 

[oldwirehead]

That's correct. The solenoid is left empty but plugged up electronically to kill the mal code.

How do you do that?

 

[oldwirehead]

How to block stock boost solenoid

How do you block the stock boost solenoid when using an external wastegate.

How do you do this: solenoid is left empty but plugged up electronically to kill the mal code.

 

[kenny]

Plug the harness into the sensor and leave the vacuum lines off.

It's on the passenger side valve cover, connector is red.

 

[oldwirehead]

How to electronically to kill the mal code

How do you do this "solenoid is left empty but plugged up electronically to kill the mal code"?

 

[GNVenom]

How do you block the stock boost solenoid when using an external wastegate.

How do you do this: solenoid is left empty but plugged up electronically to kill the mal code.

Use this:

Wastegate Dead-End Connector

 

[oldwirehead]

Thanks

On order :biggrin: