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False Knock

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MCH86GN

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2008
Messages
1,473
I recently replaced my alternator and serpentine belt - 63.5". I have ~69k miles on the car. First I took my car for a cruise, primarily to check and make sure alternator was regulating correctly. So my Scanmaster was displaying BVatt the entire time. I then took my car out again and with Scanmaster on the default setting and I noticed spark retard when doing normal driving. Finally I put the car in park and I was still able to induce knock. There is also engine noise that has gotten worse over time, I can't audibly locate it. Here are the things I have checked so far.
1. So I double check the alternator and make sure it is bolted down.
2. Removed the serpentine belt and checked tensioner pulley, and the other pulleys and they all appeared to in working order.
3. I've double checked all the bolts I could get to.
4. I've replaced my ECM with a known good one
5. I've replaced ESC module with a known good one
6. I've removed the "trans shield" and I took at look at the converter and flywheel, while the car was running and in and out of drive and I didn't see anything or hear any noise. I checked to see if there were any loose bolts and didn't see any.

I'm sure that I've checked other things, but nothing seems to be making a difference. As I mentioned, there is noise from the engine that has gotten progressively worse, you have to rev the engine to hear it, and I believe that is what the knock sensor is detecting.
I have owned the car for about a year and half now and I did manage to blow a head gasket in oct of 08 at about 68k miles. I took it in to Aggressive Performance and had the Champion Heads and intake ported along with new cometic gaskets and ARP studs put in. Prior to blowing the gasket, there was never an issue with excessive engine noise or anything else. Car ran like a dream. After the head gasket blew, it has been all down hill.

I don't have too much experience with working on cars, especially not engines, so I'm still learning. So I also ask for patiences.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Also, does anyone know of good engine person for these cars here in Southeast Michigan?

Thanks,
Charles
 
Chasing knock is not fun, but you have called it false and you should make sure it is false. I would believe the KR reading on the scanmaster and you can always back off your timing and boost and put the best gas you can in there until you know for sure. Cool weather (like now) with race gas will eliminate the two biggest causes of knock that I have had to deal with.

Other more knowlegable people will chime in if you respond with more info. I wonder if you know if the knock sensor was compromised during the recent head work, etc?
 
Chasing knock is not fun, but you have called it false and you should make sure it is false. I would believe the KR reading on the scanmaster and you can always back off your timing and boost and put the best gas you can in there until you know for sure. Cool weather (like now) with race gas will eliminate the two biggest causes of knock that I have had to deal with.

Other more knowlegable people will chime in if you respond with more info. I wonder if you know if the knock sensor was compromised during the recent head work, etc?

Problem is, I see while in park or neutral with no load on the engine. I see it during normal driving. It's not a couple of degrees either, it is 10 to 12 degrees of retard in some instances. Since it has started, I have yet to boost the car at all.

Just to see if it would make a difference I backed off the spark advance the max, 9 degree and max out the fuel at 20% above nominal. Still there, under normal driving conditions.

It really started after I changed my serpentine belt, I no longer have the old belt or I would put it back on to see if that remedied the issue. I have checked there tensioner pulley at it appears to be fine, no bottoming out.

No fun chasing it, that is for sure.
 
Problem is, I see while in park or neutral with no load on the engine. I see it during normal driving. It's not a couple of degrees either, it is 10 to 12 degrees of retard in some instances. Since it has started, I have yet to boost the car at all.

Just to see if it would make a difference I backed off the spark advance the max, 9 degree and max out the fuel at 20% above nominal. Still there, under normal driving conditions.

It really started after I changed my serpentine belt, I no longer have the old belt or I would put it back on to see if that remedied the issue. I have checked there tensioner pulley at it appears to be fine, no bottoming out.

No fun chasing it, that is for sure.
Too bad you don’t have a recording scantool to post a log. That would be able to tell us something.

Can you remove the belt and drive the car around the block to see if you still have the KR issue?
Is the valve train noisy?
 
Too bad you don’t have a recording scantool to post a log. That would be able to tell us something.

Can you remove the belt and drive the car around the block to see if you still have the KR issue?
Is the valve train noisy?

Actually I do have a scantool, WINALDL, which is a free windows based scantool. All I had to do was build an interface cable for it. Just connect the interface cable up and works great. The bad is, I live in Michigan and I'm not able to get my car out right now and drive it and I didn't get any data traces when I had the chance.

There is some noise, I just can't audibly locate it.
 
Actually I do have a scantool, WINALDL, which is a free windows based scantool. All I had to do was build an interface cable for it. Just connect the interface cable up and works great. The bad is, I live in Michigan and I'm not able to get my car out right now and drive it and I didn't get any data traces when I had the chance.

There is some noise, I just can't audibly locate it.

OK, I missed that on the scantool.
Looks like you got it under control.
Good luck!
 
OK, I missed that on the scantool.
Looks like you got it under control.
Good luck!

Luck was not on my side. I had a chance to get my car out Sat. and as I was approaching a stop sign, I heard a clunk and my car died and would not start. Luckily I was close to my house and I was able to push it home. I noticed some oil leaking and I put it up on some jack stands to take a closer look, didn't really see anything. I drained the oil and I was draining I seen some shrapnel coming out. Got the oil pan dropped, not completely off, I don't have the clearance and it look likes I have a rod broken. So engine rebuild is on the way:mad:

Thanks all for your input.
 
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