Fan Problems?need advice
- Thread starter V6-Sauce
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turbo87adam
Active Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2012
Have you checked to see if you have 12v coming from the fusible link? It feeds all three fan related relays for the fan load side of the relay? If you check the high speed relay you will need to see if you have 12v on terminal 1 as indicated by the wiring diagram provided by turbo89.
V6-Sauce
Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2008
I have 12V at the high fan delay relay plug. Question does any of the A/C sensors effect the fan operation. My A/C doesn't work. Why doesn't fan turn on from the ac pressure switch plug when I put a wire on the pins & the other end to ground?. what fuse's control the ac pressure switch plug?here's pics of the fan wires
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V6-Sauce
Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2008
I Fixed my Fan problem, I think it was the FAN CONNECTORS after a very long thread....Reading Vortexbuick troubleshooting, The info testing does help and narrow it down.
-Checked all fuses under the steering wheel/with a test light for power.
-Checked all relay connectors for power/ with a test light or 12 volts with ignition on.
-Fan runs when connected straight to the battery or power directly.
-Disconnected the fan delay relay plugs from the relay and leave it there.
-Replaced old Fan plug & wires with Caspers harness(CONNECTED ALL WIRES TOGETHER, DELETED THE RESISTOR COMPLETELY FROM THE FAN).
-Replaced old Engine Fan harness plug with Caspers
-Reset the chip or disconnect the battery.
After sitting in the driveway at idle when temp rises, fans turned on at high speed at 167*, like its suppose to by the TT chip or (ECM). I'm very glad I figured out this fan issue, after awhile.
-Checked all fuses under the steering wheel/with a test light for power.
-Checked all relay connectors for power/ with a test light or 12 volts with ignition on.
-Fan runs when connected straight to the battery or power directly.
-Disconnected the fan delay relay plugs from the relay and leave it there.
-Replaced old Fan plug & wires with Caspers harness(CONNECTED ALL WIRES TOGETHER, DELETED THE RESISTOR COMPLETELY FROM THE FAN).
-Replaced old Engine Fan harness plug with Caspers
-Reset the chip or disconnect the battery.
After sitting in the driveway at idle when temp rises, fans turned on at high speed at 167*, like its suppose to by the TT chip or (ECM). I'm very glad I figured out this fan issue, after awhile.
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- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Finally? After 50 posts? LOL! 
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
In the "FWIW" dept...
The 58K rad, in my 87 was NASTY. I think the hillbilly that abused it, used branch water for coolant.
I used a sawzall, to cut the tanks off the core. The first 8+ rows of tubes were plugged solid.
Do you think it could've been cleaned out at a radiator shop
Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk
Oh, hell no. You can't clean a clogged up flue like that. It would succeed it cleaning out all the holes that were clogged by debris and some solder joints though.
Sorta the same story we've all seen and heard about buying a used car, doing a fresh coolant swap, then the floorboard filling up with coolant because the heater core is now a fountain.
Sorta the same story we've all seen and heard about buying a used car, doing a fresh coolant swap, then the floorboard filling up with coolant because the heater core is now a fountain.
This picture was taken over 11 years ago and the car had 76K on the clock.
The radiator is upside down, so this is the top 1/3 AKA 'the cleanest part''.
The car read over 235* in April running 50 or 60... I touched the cap to see if it was a false reading do to steam or if the cap was actually that hot....
This was the answer...
The entire neck came off, cap and all.
This was 11 years ago when the radiator was 'only' 19 years old.
On the up side that spot on my bicep was a 1/2 filled water blister the size of a dollar coin. It looked and felt like a big googly eye. I hated when it popped.
Moral of the story, go buy a radiator for an '89 IROC tree fiddy and be done with it. Band aids just don't work in this instance.
The radiator is upside down, so this is the top 1/3 AKA 'the cleanest part''.
The car read over 235* in April running 50 or 60... I touched the cap to see if it was a false reading do to steam or if the cap was actually that hot....
This was the answer...
The entire neck came off, cap and all.
This was 11 years ago when the radiator was 'only' 19 years old.
On the up side that spot on my bicep was a 1/2 filled water blister the size of a dollar coin. It looked and felt like a big googly eye.
I hated when it popped.Moral of the story, go buy a radiator for an '89 IROC tree fiddy and be done with it. Band aids just don't work in this instance.
Last edited:
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Another cause of reduced cooling capacity.. After 1000's of heat/ cool cycles, vibration, rough roads, etc, the integrity of the core solder joints becomes suspect. Corrosion of the external surfaces doesn't help, either.
Even tho there may not be leaks, the heat transfer to the fins is compromised.
Even tho there may not be leaks, the heat transfer to the fins is compromised.
RmvBfrFlght
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2007
No, only the trans cooler, which has the fittings on the backside where the stock rad has the engine oil cooler fittings.
Using distilled water eliminates the clogged flues in the radiator. Never use tap water. I get the distilled water from the shop dehumidifier. Even at the grocery store it is only 89 cents a gallon.
Be sure to use a rust preventive: anti-freeze if required, or RMI-25 if in a warm climate.
RemoveBeforeFlight
