FAQ for a Newbie

[NHRA Super Gas]

Hi All,

I've looked around the site and haven't seen exactly what I'm looking for. Can you outline for me exactly which mods should be done and in what order to get to say a low 12 second 1/4 mile? I'd also like to know how much farther you have to go to get low 11's. Does the engine have to come out to get to each of these points? Do you have to install a laptop? I'm very new to the turbo thing but am relatively proficient at going fast as the username would suggest.

Lastly, how much do each of these mods cost?

I'm curious if a relatively stock GN and $1K and a winter in my garage gets me a fast street car that can be driven 300 miles on vacation if necessary.

Thanks,

EW

 

[sholdwick]

Speed Recipes

Check out www.gnttype.org Go under Resources and then under technical articles you will find performance recipes. There are some very good recipes based on what goal you have in mind. There are also many other articles about these cars. Great place to find info. If you are not familar with these cars you will be suprised how well they respond to bolt-ons. 12's are very easily attainable. And alot of people get into the 11's with out opening the motor.

 

[Lee_Burough]

Welcome!

The link inthe post above is a very good link for a lot of great information. Search on 'free mods' too.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

The key to these car is keep the detonation down.
Low grade octane, too much timing, carbon buildup, or insufficient fuel supply are the greatest factors leading to knock retard.

Here is the list for 1000.00 that is a must need upgrade

Pump and hotwire kit 99.99 and 29.99 good for around 600HP, and everyone uses them from daily drivers to all out racecars...

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/items~Cc~BUFP~iTpStatus~0~Tp~~Bc~.htm


Fuel pressure regulator 99.99

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/items~Cc~BUFPREGFTS~iTpStatus~0~Tp~~Bc~.htm

160° thermostat 10.00

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/items~Cc~BUCOOL~iTpStatus~0~Tp~~Bc~.htm

Scantool

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/items~Cc~SCAN~iTpStatus~0~Tp~~Bc~.htm

Or do a search for direct scan / directscan... that allows you to use a laptop, and the price is about the same.

New down pipe 439.00 good for running low 10s, maybe even faster.

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/items~Cc~BUDWN~iTpStatus~0~Tp~~Bc~.htm

You can purchase a used downpipe, ask for a THDP thats terry houston down pipe, or a ATR, You should run any 3" downpipe that deletes the factory turbo elbow, and is STAINLESS... mild steel will rot out.

Thats 929.00 but you also need...

And a summit hok-16980?? 299.99 Hooker cat back exhaust system or

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/items~Cc~BUCAT~iTpStatus~0~Tp~~Bc~.htm

and you will have to purchase some mufflers.

A eric marshall chip 70.00
Razors meth kit to match erics chip 500.00

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/items~Cc~BUALKY~iTpStatus~0~Tp~~Bc~.htm

Looks like we blew the budget at 1799.00 but now you have a solid 12 second car all the time and can drive it all day everyday!
BW

 

[NHRA Super Gas]

The key to these car is keep the detonation down.
Low grade octane, too much timing, carbon buildup, or insufficient fuel supply are the greatest factors leading to knock retard.

Here is the list for 1000.00 that is a must need upgrade

Pump and hotwire kit 99.99 and 29.99 good for around 600HP, and everyone uses them from daily drivers to all out racecars...

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/items~Cc~BUFP~iTpStatus~0~Tp~~Bc~.htm


Fuel pressure regulator 99.99

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/items~Cc~BUFPREGFTS~iTpStatus~0~Tp~~Bc~.htm

160° thermostat 10.00

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/items~Cc~BUCOOL~iTpStatus~0~Tp~~Bc~.htm

Scantool

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/items~Cc~SCAN~iTpStatus~0~Tp~~Bc~.htm

Or do a search for direct scan / directscan... that allows you to use a laptop, and the price is about the same.

New down pipe 439.00 good for running low 10s, maybe even faster.

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/items~Cc~BUDWN~iTpStatus~0~Tp~~Bc~.htm

You can purchase a used downpipe, ask for a THDP thats terry houston down pipe, or a ATR, You should run any 3" downpipe that deletes the factory turbo elbow, and is STAINLESS... mild steel will rot out.

Thats 929.00 but you also need...

And a summit hok-16980?? 299.99 Hooker cat back exhaust system or

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/items~Cc~BUCAT~iTpStatus~0~Tp~~Bc~.htm

and you will have to purchase some mufflers.

A eric marshall chip 70.00
Razors meth kit to match erics chip 500.00

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/items~Cc~BUALKY~iTpStatus~0~Tp~~Bc~.htm

Looks like we blew the budget at 1799.00 but now you have a solid 12 second car all the time and can drive it all day everyday!
BW

Thanks everyone for the replys. I did read through the gnttype site, good stuff. Here are some more questions:

Do you recommend in tank or external fuel pumps?

Any thoughts on Scantool vs. Laptop?

Dual exhaust vs. Single? My guess is single makes more torque?

At what point do you need alcohol injection?

Do most of the 11 second cars run rollers? These were flat tappet from the factory? From reading the ttype site I wouldn't think the roller necessary...

Is the boost controller a street/strip type of feature? If you're all one or all the other are they advised/necessary?

You're probably all laughing because these come up weekly....

Thanks again,

EW

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Intank pumps are great and a direct replacement. Buy one pump now till your running mid 10s on racegas, then add a second intank pump just to make sure you have enough supply during the pass.

Scanmaster is as small as a regular radar detector and only records highest knock at a certain MPH, and lowest 02 at certain mph... it also shows other info from the computer, but non are recorded. Direct scan records passes and can take up to 18 frames per second. Its a much better tuning tool, but can you really make a pass down the track stairing at your laptop sitting in the pass seat?
Both would be nice, scanmaster is good enough to get the car dialed in, i sold my directscan because i didnt use it for 2 years..

Dual exhaust becuase its quieter, single if you can stand the noise.

My daily driver has the hooker cat back dual exhaust, quiet at idle and seems to make plenty of torque.... was running low low 11s full exhaust with a te44 turbo.

Everyone should have methanol injection, the worst part about these cars is.....
Fill the car up with racegas and run a low 12, run it low on 110octane and have to fill it up, now you cant race it because you dont have enough octane and would easily blow a head gasket with pump gas on a race chip..

Put the street chip back in and have a mid 13 second car on radials
This is if the car is pretty much stock...

Now enter meth injection, your car will now run low 12s all day, every day, and still be able to hit the gas station and top the tank off with 92 octane, never worry about purchasing racegas again.
Meth is 2.00 per gallon, my 1 gallon tank will last the entire week, and i get into it 3-5 times a day.

Run rollers? cams or rockers?
If its not broke dont fix it.
Lots of guys in the 10s with stock cams.

Boost controllers kick butt, just depends on your setup, i have a in car electric boost and in car meth adjustments and can change my settings while making a pass.
It becomes a real pain in the butt trying to raise or lower the boost with a under the hood style bleeder, the boost level is never the same on any given day.
It really does depend on your setup and what you are trying to achieve.
BW

 

[Lee_Burough]

This is a good reference site too

If you're going to use scanmaster or Turbolink, you should get an audible knock detector to warn you of knock, so you can close the throttle before you damage your engine