FAST classic and windows 10

[outatime86]

Anyone running FAST classic B2B on a windows 10 laptop? If so what usb to serial cable are you running?

I fired my car for the first time in 16 years, started in 2 revolutions! Started quick and sounded strong....But wouldn't stay running. Runs for 2-3 seconds then dies. My old usb to serial cable even with updated drivers can't be recognized by windows 10 verfied by the error symbol via the device manager.....so I couldn't connect to the FAST software, getting "comm open failed" error message. Did a search on the forum and saw it might be a cable issue. Found a link for a newer cable that seemed to work for others from the forum, here it is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDSM6BW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hoping this solves the connection issue so I can go into my FAST and see why the car is dying. Also have a fuel pressure gauge ordered to verify exact fuel pressure. I have a capped shredder valve on the fuel rail and after I primed fuel pump I opened the valve and plenty of fuel came out so assuming there is pressure @ the rail. Also I am assuming its not the cam sensor because the car starts.

Thoughts??

 

[Chuck Leeper]

A couple things.
1. Have you worked/changed any of the wiring?
If so, are you sure the ign stays hot after you release the key?
2. Will it stay running with the FAST unplugged?
It's been a long time since I worked on an early FAST. However, I do remember that the link cables were an issue and had to be specific.
Did the same cable work on an earlier lt, such as XP, Win8, etc?

 

[RichieRocket]

I just had the same issue, I will get you the part# shortly,

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I thot I still had mine.... No luck.

 

[RichieRocket]

I had the same issue also, the original connector only intermittently allowing the connect to the original XFI box. As soon as I replaced the serial to USB adapter, poof, problem solved. This one even has an indicator light on the USB end that tells you it is being powered by the FAST box. You will have to assign a comm port if it doesn’t automatically find the connection, mine ultimately is set up on comm 5 but yours will vary.. Rich

 

[RichieRocket]

Here is the deal I got and you can get it by tomorrow.

 

[outatime86]

A couple things.
1. Have you worked/changed any of the wiring?
If so, are you sure the ign stays hot after you release the key?
2. Will it stay running with the FAST unplugged?
It's been a long time since I worked on an early FAST. However, I do remember that the link cables were an issue and had to be specific.
Did the same cable work on an earlier lt, such as XP, Win8, etc?

1. haven't changed the wiring at all, car ran fine years ago with old windows XP and FAST
2. I'll have to give that a try

 

[outatime86]

I had the same issue also, the original connector only intermittently allowing the connect to the original XFI box. As soon as I replaced the serial to USB adapter, poof, problem solved. This one even has an indicator light on the USB end that tells you it is being powered by the FAST box. You will have to assign a comm port if it doesn’t automatically find the connection, mine ultimately is set up on comm 5 but yours will vary.. Rich

That is the cable I bought from amazon, should be here today and hope it works!

The only other thing I can think of is I have a Pink/Black wire close to the firewall on the passenger side that I added 3 feet-ish of red wire and its been taped off at the end. Once I get the cable I'll check first if it works and I can connect to FAST. Then I'll start the car and see if it stays running once connect to FAST. If not I'll add that Pink/Black wire to the positive side of the battery and see if that keeps the engine running.

Crossing fingers.

Watching an old FAST tuning DVD I found tonight and taking some notes.

Thanks for the replies!!

 

[outatime86]

Richie was right, glad I bought the right cable before I saw the post. This solved my connectivity issues 100%. This new cable came with a CD including the driver, installed and switched com port to 1, plugged in the FAST ECU and with the key in AUX position was able to connect. After connecting I was able to save the program file from which the car ran on a long time ago. Car still won't stay running so I'll start the check list for this next.

Anyone think that injectors could be clogged? Sat in a garage for 15+ years, in southern california.

Any suggestions on where to start checking for possible issues? My best guess is that something isn't getting power but not sure where to start. Car has fuel pressure verified with a gauge at the rail 45psi, and oil pressure comes up to just over 40ish while cranking.

Here is a link to the cable

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Prolific-Chipset-CB-DB9P/dp/B00IDSM6BW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=19BRL6ZWEGKP6&keywords=sabrent+usb+to+serial&qid=1649975724&sprefix=sabrent+usb+to+serial%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-3

 

[Chuck Leeper]

"Anyone think that injectors could be clogged? Sat in a garage for 15+ years, in southern california."
NO DOUBT!
I would think a complete spring cleaning, fuel system flush, plugs, oil, fuel filter, etc, is/has been done. Y/N??

 

[outatime86]

"Anyone think that injectors could be clogged? Sat in a garage for 15+ years, in southern california."
NO DOUBT!
I would think a complete spring cleaning, fuel system flush, plugs, oil, fuel filter, etc, is/has been done. Y/N??

Was able to download my FAST program file, also was able to data log the attempt at starting. Sent it off to the expert Norbs. He noticed right away that the MAP sensor doesn't seem to be working. Should be reading 97-100 kpa with key "on" not even running, and mine is not. He said the car won't even run without the MAP sensor working. Maybe thats it and I get lucky.

For fuel, I pulled that tank, dumped old fuel, there wasn't hardly ANY debris in the tank. Pump inspection looked good, sock looked new! Reinstalled, refilled with 10 gallons of 91 chevron. Next primed the fuel pump into a bucket, at least a gallons worth, same as tank hardly any debris came out. Verified fuel pressure at 45psi on the rail. I have NOT done new plugs, oil or fuel filter. Was told as long as there is oil, I shouldn't do a change until the car runs and gets hot at least.

Any recommendations on which plugs to get, also what gap to run? I can pickup a MAP sensor, plugs, fuel filter no problem. I just bought some oil VR1 10-30. BTW the oil is ON SALE from NAPPA at $5.99 a qt vs $9.99 a qt, along with a nappa gold filter #1258. Looks like ACDelco fuel filter #25171792 I can pick up (running stock lines). Links below.

Fuel filter

NEW GM ACDELCO GF652 FUEL FILTER 25171792 B80 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for NEW GM ACDELCO GF652 FUEL FILTER 25171792 B80 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

3 Map Bar Sensor

https://www.amazon.com/Sensor-Various-Models-Connector-Pigtail/dp/B07TJG9F6L

Thanks Chuck for checking in!

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Sounds like you have it covered!
Before you lean on it, I'd clean the injs and do a set of plugs.
I used the AC plugs 2 ranges colder and ran them at .028.

 

[RichieRocket]

If it sat for 15 years, you should change the baskets in the fuel injectors. I you know how to remove the old baskets, take one out and send me the measurements in mm. My guess is 3x6x12. I have multiple size baskets and I can ship 6 to you if you pay the shipping. You should also measure the top and bottom o-rings. An outer diameter will suffice. I will send you the o-rings and baskets to rebuild them. Don’t go stomping around on it until you rebuild the injectors. 15 years of sitting injectors is a recipe for a blown engine. After you have the baskets out make sure you clean the pencils out with some injector cleaner from both ends of the injectors. If you want to make sure they operate, just hook alligator clips to each prong and touch the other ends to a 12 volt battery, you will here it click if it is engaging. They make an inexpensive injector pulsing tool that you can hook up to them wile spraying the cleaner thru them. Do a bit of looking on Amazon and you will find several. Hit me up if you want to FaceTime while going through the process and I will walk you through it. Good luck. Rich

 

[TType85]

I would be wary of the cheap MAP sensor. It's not one you want to cheap out on.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

^^^ This.
I've had 2 aftermkt sensors come apart where the 2 parts are glued.
If you are going to use them, I suggest some superglue around the joint.

 

[RichieRocket]

Just in case I lose a MAP for some reason at the GS Nationals, I ordered this one. You don’t need as 4 bar unless your going to make over 30# of boost but this is about as cheap as I would go on a MAP. The folks ^^^^^ there have a very valid point.

 

[outatime86]

If it sat for 15 years, you should change the baskets in the fuel injectors. I you know how to remove the old baskets, take one out and send me the measurements in mm. My guess is 3x6x12. I have multiple size baskets and I can ship 6 to you if you pay the shipping. You should also measure the top and bottom o-rings. An outer diameter will suffice. I will send you the o-rings and baskets to rebuild them. Don’t go stomping around on it until you rebuild the injectors. 15 years of sitting injectors is a recipe for a blown engine. After you have the baskets out make sure you clean the pencils out with some injector cleaner from both ends of the injectors. If you want to make sure they operate, just hook alligator clips to each prong and touch the other ends to a 12 volt battery, you will here it click if it is engaging. They make an inexpensive injector pulsing tool that you can hook up to them wile spraying the cleaner thru them. Do a bit of looking on Amazon and you will find several. Hit me up if you want to FaceTime while going through the process and I will walk you through it. Good luck. Rich

I appreciate the advice and the offer!! I have always wondered when it would be my turn to have my injectors cleaned. I read GM EFI article about Injector Experts Injector Experts Rebuild Wicked6’s OEM Injectors and like the idea of having a professional using proper tools bench test and flowmatch each injector after repairing my baskets and filters. So next I'm just going to take out the injectors and send them to Keith @ Injector Experts. I already have an upgraded low imp injector harness with hotwire, so this is the perfect time to install that.

Also thinking about getting the 3 Map Bar sensor from Racetronix, it's $60 vs $115 from FAST itself. Will avoid the cheap $20 one though I am tempted! I will get the ACDelco fuel filter from amazon, just because that is a Delco part not worried.

Once new map bar sensor installed, cleaned injectors installed, new injector harness, new fuel filter, and a new program from Norbs (Your the Man Norbs!) I will try firing again. Not really a point to attempting to fire again until these jobs are done.

 

[outatime86]

I would be wary of the cheap MAP sensor. It's not one you want to cheap out on.

I agree, think I'm going with Racetronix @ $60 vs the Holley or FAST for $115

Thank you for convincing me to avoid the cheap stuff, I was tempted.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Pretty much what a volt/pressure chart should look like.
I'd guess it wouldn't take a lot of effort to scale one and do a compare for possible offset.

 

[RichieRocket]

Good move. If your injectors are high Z then setting up for low Z is going to be an issue. Do some research on that.