Feedback on powerlogger file

[SCOOBY DOO]

Just to be clear When i say same power I mean in that range on a stock motor basically till the stocker runs out.

For me personally, the jury is out till he picks the correct MAF in the Translator and compare the new PL file. I haven't seen this before as a comparison so it'll be good info. These cars still intrigue me.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Just had a coffee and brought up his PL file again comparing MAF vs RPM. Reason being that I posted back on reply 38 that his MAF was maxed at 2.1 TPS. So at an idle of 851 his MAF is 11.0. Let's see what happens when he picks the correct MAF in the Translator. Should be about 6 warmed up at idle in Park.

To the OP. I want you set your TPS at .42. Read up on why, and follow Steves instructions. Steve can explain it in better detail than I can. Looking at your file it looks to be at .46 which is a little to close for my liking.

Basics

 

[Pronto]

Yes, the combination of both being off will mess with the fueling for sure.

 

[crvogt]

Went out and attempted to make a run, but it's tourist weekend so I was a little stuck for opening it up. From what I saw, it does seem to be leaner, but still dipping into the low 10s/9s. In case anyone is curious, I've attached the log file but will try to open it up a bit more tomorrow.

Changes made:
set MAF base to 3
set TPS to 0.40 with car off

WB was acting up and wouldn't give a reading (bad voltage) so rewired and recalibrated.

New denso O2 sensor came in, but haven't installed it yet, trying not to make too many changes at once..

EDIT: Also looks like BLMs improved. I'm curious if chip learning time could also come into play. Ie., next time I take it out the chip will have "adjusted" some? Also, I don't think I got it over 10psi. (I know, still need to wire in the boost). Checked the last frames, MAF at ~6, just like Scooby said.

 

[XracerX]

You didn't mention. Did you reset the power to the ECM behind the battery? This has to be done for the chip to reset and learn new

 

[XracerX]

What is your fuel pressure set to vacuum off?

 

[Mr.Spool]

For me personally, the jury is out till he picks the correct MAF in the Translator and compare the new PL file. I haven't seen this before as a comparison so it'll be good info. These cars still intrigue me.

Ohh he should make sure his translator setup is on point
I have had to adjust a few of them o. Different setting before.
But......
15psi on a stock motor is 15psi the motor doesnt know what turbo is on the car
Looking at fuel usage on a more advanced computer system actual tells you how much horsepower you have made.
Looking at fuel usage is a great Indicator as well.
Or coarse running the car on a draggy,dragstrip,or a stopwatch by distance will show all that is needed

 

[crvogt]

What is your fuel pressure set to vacuum off?

It's set to 43, line off

 

[crvogt]

You didn't mention. Did you reset the power to the ECM behind the battery? This has to be done for the chip to reset and learn new

I only reset it with the new chip installed. I haven't reset it since adjusting the MAF translator. Certainly doesn't seem like it'd hurt!

 

[Pronto]

Once you reset the ecm, drive it for a while, don't just go out and hammer it. Once it fully warm try a 3rd gear pull. If you don't see improvement, I would be looking at that WB especially after you say it went haywire.

 

[Dan SS2471]

AEM Wideband? I didn't catch that if it's been posted. Or does Denso O2 imply that....

 

[crvogt]

AEM Wideband? I didn't catch that if it's been posted. Or does Denso O2 imply that....

It's an Innovate WB, which after yesterday I've read are finicky.

 

[Pronto]

IMHO they stink!

 

[crvogt]

IMHO they stink!

The Innovate sensors? I'm beginning to agree. I didn't think there'd be much of a disparity in WB quality. I've read AEM is pretty hassle free, but open to recommendations. Possible that the WB is putting out a bad signal? It's practically brand new...

 

[Dan SS2471]

Did you do a 'heated calibration' before connecting the new sensor to the Wideband? If not, pull the sensor out of the bung, disconnect it from the LC-1 and following these steps.

3.1 Heater Calibration 1. Remove the sensor from the exhaust, the sensor needs to be in free air for this procedure. 2. Disconnected the sensor from the LC-1’s sensor connector. 3. Switch 12V supply to the LC-1 ON. The LED will flash a two blink sequence with a 2 second pause during this time. Leave the unit powered ON for 20 seconds. 4. Switch the 12V supply off after 20 seconds. 5. Connect the sensor to the LC-1’s sensor interface connector but do not put the sensor in the exhaust. The sensor must be removed from the exhaust and exposed to free air for this calibration. 6. Switch the 12V supply to the LC-1 ON. The LED will first blink steady about 2 times/second: indicating that the sensor is warming up. The LED will then start a faster blinking sequence about 4 times/second indicating a Heater calibration. When the Heater Calibration is done the LED will light up and remain solid. 7. While the sensor is still removed from the exhaust perform a free air calibration.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Go back and take a look at the screen shot Pronto put up. NB 815 and WB 10.8...they appear to be agreeing. Don't go and piss money away on something you may not need. Set the Translator MAF knob correctly...engine up to temperature...and check your MAF number in Park. One thing at a time. It's at 11...it should be around 6-8 in Park fully warmed up. I need a drink...

 

[Dan SS2471]

The AEM I plan to get to replace my LC-1 is 30-0310. Can be found a few different places. Prices are pretty consistent at $179.00. Jeg's and Summit are out of stock - FYI.

 

[crvogt]

Did you do a 'heated calibration' before connecting the new sensor to the Wideband? If not, pull the sensor out of the bung, disconnect it from the LC-1 and following these steps.

3.1 Heater Calibration 1. Remove the sensor from the exhaust, the sensor needs to be in free air for this procedure. 2. Disconnected the sensor from the LC-1’s sensor connector. 3. Switch 12V supply to the LC-1 ON. The LED will flash a two blink sequence with a 2 second pause during this time. Leave the unit powered ON for 20 seconds. 4. Switch the 12V supply off after 20 seconds. 5. Connect the sensor to the LC-1’s sensor interface connector but do not put the sensor in the exhaust. The sensor must be removed from the exhaust and exposed to free air for this calibration. 6. Switch the 12V supply to the LC-1 ON. The LED will first blink steady about 2 times/second: indicating that the sensor is warming up. The LED will then start a faster blinking sequence about 4 times/second indicating a Heater calibration. When the Heater Calibration is done the LED will light up and remain solid. 7. While the sensor is still removed from the exhaust perform a free air calibration.

Thanks, I have done a heated calibration, but using the LC2 instructions and gauge https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/wp/content/uploads/2022/05/LC-2_Manual.pdf

 

[crvogt]

The AEM I plan to get to replace my LC-1 is 30-0310. Can be found a few different places. Prices are pretty consistent at $179.00. Jeg's and Summit are out of stock - FYI.

Thank you, that's good to know.

 

[crvogt]

Go back and take a look at the screen shot Pronto put up. NB 815 and WB 10.8...they appear to be agreeing. Don't go and piss money away on something you may not need. Set the Translator MAF knob correctly...engine up to temperature...and check your MAF number in Park. One thing at a time. It's at 11...it should be around 6-8 in Park fully warmed up. I need a drink...

I posted new data in post #64 and MAF in park was ~6, warmed up.