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Final roller cam decision..

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Adrian87 said:
My T&D's are 1.55, so should I spec the higher lift or leave it at .496?

Weber Racing also offers a 206/206 "high lift" version that has .520 lift with 1.55 rockers. This is the camshaft I had in "SlowGray" with 1.60 rocker which equals .537 lift. See times below...

My "BlueCar" had the 206/206 .496 lift version and went mid-10's @ 129+mph.

Both are excellent "street" cams that can help a good combination make plenty of power!!


K.
 
Be sure to check your clearance between the bottom of the retainer and the top of the valve guide - with and without seals. Around 0.500" lift is where you start checking things...
 
Hello Adrian

I know this stuff is keeping you from sleeping at night. That 212 / 212 seems to be working great for many. I am going to suggest it to you, not just to confuse you. Based on the conversation we had in St.Louis, I think if you go smaller you're only going to end up buying a bigger cam in the future.

Remeber this is a roller cam, so the valves are going to stay open longer than they would if it were a flat tappet cam.

Don't forget to investigate your valve train geometry when running those big lift cams. Big lifts are awesome but, springs can bind up, locks fall out, valves drop, it ruins your hole day. I know some people that should have known better, but still over looked their valve train geometry and clearance.

212 / 212 is my 2 cents worth, but I have to admit I am curious what that:
206 / 206
.539 / .521
112lsa
would do.

That ought to confuse you real good, but the bottom line is: You know a guy that is going to help you tune your car, and he is running a 212 /212, and you also know how fast he is going.

Also remeber however fast you make your car go this summer, you are going to want it to go faster next summer. (how many cams do you want to buy?)

Good luck Adrian
 
Sam,
You are right, I have been losing sleep over it. I appreciate all your input. It seems if cam specs were that important one these cars there would be more threads on them. It doesn't seem that smallish cams limit these cars too much, after reading about 130mph traps with the 206/206, so that's what I went with. I'll have this thing buttoned up soon and I'll be sure to let you know how it goes. Thanks again to everyone for their input. If the te45a turns out to be more turbo than I need I'm sure I can sell it easily.
 
What rocker ratio is .539 / .521 lift with? For a 206 like I said before is huge lift. My 210 roller with 1.65's is only .523. Just curious
 
DonnieShort said:
What rocker ratio is .539 / .521 lift with? For a 206 like I said before is huge lift. My 210 roller with 1.65's is only .523. Just curious


That is with 1.55's, I spec'd it myself, not an off the shelf grind, but since no one knew anything about it I ordered the off the shelf 206/206 cam. Looks like it will get me where I want.
 
There are some cars out there which run in stock type classes, which are forced to run stock heads. I'm thinking of this one car in particular. Its a 5.0 stang, running stock E5 heads. Those heads flow like CRAP. You think stock TR heads flow poorly? Check out those heads some time. They dont flow any more past .400 lift, yet this car runs a cam with about .700 lift. The reason is that with a higher lift cam, the valve is spending much more average time in the sweet zone for max flow. If you run a .400 lift cam, the valve only spends a moment at .400 lift, and the rest of the time at a lift where the heads are not flowing at thier peak. You run .700 lift, and now the heads are flowing at peak by the time the lifter is only halfway up the ramp. The only other way to get more air in the motor with a cam, is to run alot more duration. Run alot more duration, and now you end up with increased overlap. Top that off with the valve closing much later after bottom dead center. Now you're bleeding off major cylinder pressure, losing all this low end and now you have a powerband about 1000rpm wide. Thats the main reason why naturally aspirated race motors run so much compression. Its to buy back some of the torque that was lost from bleeding off pressure, and gain some of the curve back. So dont sweat running an extra spark plug gap's worth of lift. As long as you check piston to valve clearance and cap to guide/seal clearance, you'll be fine. I would go for a beehive spring setup personally. You wont have to run a ton of seat pressure. I know its a roller, so who cares, but running more pressure than you need to causes parasitic power loss from friction, and even if its not alot of power, its hard on parts.
 
I think the 206-206 is a good choice. There is a local guy that has went 11.0 @ 124 with one of those GT61 turbo's. More lift then .500 will not hurt you with port iron heads. However, since Irons probably peak out before .500 lift for max flow, you can obvious go fast with less. I have a good friend that has gone 135 mph with a 200/200 with maybe .450 total lift if he is lucky. (stock pushrods, are not happy)
 
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