You can type here any text you want

First start, scanmaster readings

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

Brad_H

Active Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2013
Messages
493
I finally got my GN running after a year of restoring it ground up.
Here is my scanmaster readings at idle (warmed up)

Af- 4
L8- 32
Bae- 12.5 (battery was dead but just jump started it)
Ine- 128
Bl- 132
Cle- 166 ( Efan kicks on after and I have a 160deg. Thermostat)
Ats- 71
R- 750-800
Tps- .44
Iac- 06
Cc- 81
Pu- 3.6
Sp- 26.8
Mal- 0

What should my reading be at. Seems to be hard to start when cold But after its warm it starts good
 
I'm not too famiar with hot air but I think air flow maf reading should be closer to 10.
 
Didn't even write 02 readings down
Hmmmm but if I remember correctly it was 850-890 at idle at warm temps

Haven't token the car out for a drive or wot yet
Wanted to make sure scan master readings are correct at idle before taking it out at WOT
 
IAC is too low. Should be between 20-40. Go through the IAC TPS reset procedure and keep the TPS at .44.
 
It's up there 71 degrees
Unless its really 71 degrees outside I thought when there's no air temp sensor(hot airs don't come with them) it says 71? But I guess he would have a code?
 
Unless its really 71 degrees outside I thought when there's no air temp sensor(hot airs don't come with them) it says 71? But I guess he would have a code?
With the 5.7 chip not are needed the stock chips require the ats but my car ran without it until my TT chip was installed
 
Ya it was a cold day
And I'm currently using a 5.7 chip from tt

My readings changed a little today
O2 readings kept climbing 780-800 at last look
Af-4
L8-33
Bae-12.7
Int-128
Bl-131
Clt-good
Ats-71 ( it's inside a shop)
R-normal
Tps-.44
Iac-15
Cc-245
Pu- 3.8
Sp-26.4

So on the knock retard side of the scan master , the decimal is blinking, which I believe is open loop
But the decimal won't stay on solid which is closed loop
Or is that wrong? How do I tell if it's in closed loop or open loop......I haven't installed the software for power logger onto a lap top yet
 
Your right about the blinking light
Well I let the car warm up and let the electric fan quick on like 5 times and the scan master decimal light was still flashing
How do I get it to stay solid which is closed loop?
I just want to raise my iAc numbers
 
If you have extended crank time you could have a bad fuel pump relay. See if you can hear the fuel pump cycle for a second or two when you turn the key forward.
 
With a 5.7 chip, the car will idle in open loop until you drive it....that's how Eric's chips work. (Smooths the idle) all of you numbers look normal so far....but without driving it you won't know where it's at for sure. The ECM needs to "learn" and the only way to do that is to drive it. Make sure your tps is set properly at idle and at WOT before you go out and rip on the car.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but with the with the 5.7 chip you can go into manual closed loop I think it's like you turn on the key don't start and do se type of gas pedal pressing sequence I'll try to find my TT paperwork to get a deffinate answer
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but with the with the 5.7 chip you can go into manual closed loop I think it's like you turn on the key don't start and do se type of gas pedal pressing sequence I'll try to find my TT paperwork to get a deffinate answer
Ya I think your right.....I remember it saying something like that...I'll check my papers tm
 
Back
Top