Flat Tappet vs. Roller

[Swt_86]

What would you recommend? I know zinc was removed from oil and there have been some "soft" cams in the market leading to premature failures. Have those issues been resolved or should I bite the bullet and go with a roller cam.

I am not concerned with making huge horsepower numbers - just reliable with enough power to make the car fun to drive and stay with some of the current cars out there.

My current mods: Power Logger, Scanmaster, Walbro fuel pump, 55# injectors, Turbotweak chip, LS1 MAF and translator, AFPR, Adjustable boost rod, Walbro fuel pump - hotwired, Hooker 2.5" cat back exhaust, Razer alcohol system, boost gauge, Casper's knock gauge. The turbo, down pipe and intercooler are all stock. The car has about 60,000 miles on it.

The reason for changing the cam is that I have a wiped lobe.

 

[chopped39]

Go roller and dont waste your time with flat tappet. Why take the chance.

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

Spend the few extra bucks and get a roller cam and be done with it. Problem solved for good and you are not at the mercy of the EPA controlled oil companies. No more ZDDP or worrying what oil company changed what oil formula. Brad

 

[TRYMYSIX]

Spend the few extra bucks and get a roller cam and be done with it. Problem solved for good and you are not at the mercy of the EPA controlled oil companies. No more ZDDP or worrying what oil company changed what oil formula. Brad

What all is needed to go to a full roller set up? I seen somewhere folks were using the "Spider" valley hold down from a Ford 5.0

 

[TurboBuRick]

Go roller and never look back.

 

[chopped39]

\QUOTE=TRYMYSIX;2819780]What all is needed to go to a full roller set up? I seen somewhere folks were using the "Spider" valley hold down from a Ford 5.0[/QUOTE]

Thats when you use the 4.3 roller lifters. The roller cam kit you will get will not need that. Check all the vendors and they will have complete kits

 

[ek02]

Remember to get a cam thrust bearing button from Full Throttle. You can not use a spring loaded cam thrust button with a roller. The kit from Full Throttle has shims that go behind the bearing to adjust the end play to .010. A roller cam has faster ramps and opens the valves quicker. Noticably more power than a flat tappet. I have experienced a rounded off lobe on a flat tappet cam. Roller is the only way to go.

 

[Nick Micale]

Remember to get a cam thrust bearing button from Full Throttle. You can not use a spring loaded cam thrust button with a roller. ........

Wow! Maybe I did not get that information years ago when I was installing the first ductile roller cams with a spring loaded button, as the hundred or so I have installed since, never had an issue?

Roller spring button has doing the job so far.

 

[Swt_86]

Thanks for the advice. It looks like I'll be calling one of the forum vendors for a roller kit.

 

[Eric Stauch]

Wow! Maybe I did not get that information years ago when I was installing the first ductile roller cams with a spring loaded button, as the hundred or so I have installed since, never had an issue?

Roller spring button has doing the job so far.

X2. 30k miles on a COMP roller cam with stock spring cam button. Go roller, Mine is no 9 or 10 second rocket ship but when I do turn it up 6000 RPM I know I wont have a problem.

 

[La8agn]

3X...I also used a spring loaded rollerized cam button. Nick has stated this before in other threads. So far no problems, it makes cam set-up easy. Remember "K.I.S.S."

 

[ek02]

Thanks for the correction on the spring loaded button. If you guys never had a problem, then that speaks for itself. I would use one in a minute now. Setting the end play takes a lot of time with the shimmed bearing.