Flooding in New Orleans

I know you've tried different ones, but it still sounds like you have a bad MAF or bad wiring to/from it. Maybe I've missed it but I don't see any scan tool data for MAF flow numbers?
Are you sure the other maf's you checked were known to be good, or even the right one's?
Never heard of a Harper's Racing MAF so that would certainly be suspect IMHO.
 
Gotcha! I found Harper's at another gn website before I realized the expertise that can only be found here at turbobuick.com. I am at work now, but I will post the MAF numbers when I get home. What is your recommendation on their readings? I tried a OEM MAF from the Buick dealership and this one from Harper's.
 
Jerryl said:
If it is a new MAF, trust that one.
You can not run a stock chip with the 40 lb injectors. It will be RICH.
Click to expand...

Here's what he said in a previous post "When I got this car it had this chip (TIMSLBY40) and 40# injectors "
 
tscruggs said:
Gotcha! I found Harper's at another gn website before I realized the expertise that can only be found here at turbobuick.com. I am at work now, but I will post the MAF numbers when I get home. What is your recommendation on their readings? I tried a OEM MAF from the Buick dealership and this one from Harper's.
Click to expand...


You're not running an extender chip, so you should see idle AF (air flow) numbers of 5-6. How did you find an OEM MAF from a dealership. They no longer exist, and have been out of production for many years. I'd bet they gave you the wrong one.
 
TurboDave said:
You're not running an extender chip, so you should see idle AF (air flow) numbers of 5-6. How did you find an OEM MAF from a dealership. They no longer exist, and have been out of production for many years. I'd bet they gave you the wrong one.
Click to expand...

Interesting observation. (Bet you are right on)

It was also stated that he switched for the 40# chip to the "Stock chip" w/o any change. Hence my comment on the "rich with stock chip".
tscruggs said:
......... I have the stock chip and have swapped back and forth - both chips produce the same identical problem.
Click to expand...
 
Turbodave and Jerryl;
Thank You!!!! I wound up working late and just got home. That is correct stock or other chip - both produced same result - sputter at low acceleration - replaced injectors hoping to solve problem - good deal on good injectors - what the heck - The MAF from the dealer could be wrong considering they did not want anything to do with the car - however, the other pone should be good plus I have the old one and have swapped back and forth and no change
 
tscruggs said:
Turbodave and Jerryl;
Thank You!!!! I wound up working late and just got home. That is correct stock or other chip - both produced same result - sputter at low acceleration - replaced injectors hoping to solve problem - good deal on good injectors - what the heck - The MAF from the dealer could be wrong considering they did not want anything to do with the car - however, the other pone should be good plus I have the old one and have swapped back and forth and no change
Click to expand...


READINGS!! NEED READINGS for MAF flow at idle. STOP speculating that this or that "might" or "should" be good.
 
The MAF readings, using winaldl, are .888 at 800 rpm, .958 at 1600 rpm, and .983 at 3200 rpm. Are these good? I have been told by several mechanics that the MAF #s are good, but....... First time I have used winaldl. My scantool was lost in the flood. Couldn't find it, asked wife - she lovingly reminded me.
 
Maf *should* read:
~ 5-6 @ Idle
255 @ WOT only (Under load and > 14 # boost)

If you see these numbers, it does in no way imply the MAF is good.
It could be "off" in the mid-range, or lazy (slow to respond)

One more thing ........
How accurate is the MPH?
This is used to calculate the load variable (LV)


Edit:
The post with the "incorrect MAF" readings must be O2.
She is pig rich, and, as was stated by a few of the experts (and based on the MAF readings), your MAF is highly suspect.
It is "telling" the computer you are @WOT and ECM commands fuel.
 
Just a thought....Could a cam sensor that is a little too advanced cause the fuel to puddle up causing this problem?
 
Thank you!!!!! What do you suggest is the best MAF for the money? Just a thought, mentioned from a GN owner I happened across, could it be a hairline crack in head gasket - only revealing itself under load - at WOT blows through? Just wondering is it worth the pressure test? Fuel pressure stays steady.
 
i also have a harpers racing maf on my car. the #s on DS read 4 to 7, but my car seems to run very rich with this maf, and i have the off idle stumble at times. turned fuel press down from 43 to 40 and my blm #s got better, but still have a rough idle when 1st cranked for about a minute or so. also my maf #s @ wot are around 235-240, thats with the tps only reaching 3.2 volts (accelerator not to floor) i suspect these maf's do not work like the factory units, but has been getting me by for about 4 to 6 months now. from everything i have heard, the LT-1 or the LS1 mafs with translator is the way to go. (just some info i wanted to pass along since we both have the same mafs) hope this helps.
 
THANK YOU cjacobs!!!! You are the first person taht I have talked to with that MAF. That is good info. I have done the same thinsg and gotten teh numbers better but still off. I will try a new MAF. THANKS!!!!!!!
 
the reason i haven't gone with that maf setup is $$$$$$$ it runs about 300 to 350 for this setup. with the mafs that i have purchased in the past, i could have paid the 300 to 350 and been done by now.
 
full throttle speed would probably be a good place. my buddy has that setup and loves it. (You will need to have the hard maf pipe to run this)
 
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