Flooding in New Orleans
- Thread starter tscruggs
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
ESP posted here the other day, he had a good idea on how to diagnose this issue.
It could either be fuel pump, regulator, or the return line.
If you have a stock fuel pressure regulator, put that on and see if the pressure lowers.
If the pressure doesnt lower down, REMOVE the return line at the frame in the engine bay to diagnose if the return line all the way back to the tank might be pinched.
Stick the just removed hose into a bucket, and see if the pressure lowers down with just the key on.... If it does lower down, then something between the frame pad and fuel tank return line is kinked or pinched, if it was 20° outside, it could be frozen:biggrin:
Doing the regulator is going to be the easiest way, but do you at least have a spare to help diagnose?
If someone has just installed a fuel pump, then possibly they have the rubber line pinched above the fuel tank
If you suspect a bad coolant temp sender or coolant switch, just unplug it to diagnose. In this case, its not your problem
You have a fuel pressure problem.
It could also be a stuck piece of injector o-ring inside the regulator, thats very common.
BW
It could either be fuel pump, regulator, or the return line.
If you have a stock fuel pressure regulator, put that on and see if the pressure lowers.
If the pressure doesnt lower down, REMOVE the return line at the frame in the engine bay to diagnose if the return line all the way back to the tank might be pinched.
Stick the just removed hose into a bucket, and see if the pressure lowers down with just the key on.... If it does lower down, then something between the frame pad and fuel tank return line is kinked or pinched, if it was 20° outside, it could be frozen:biggrin:
Doing the regulator is going to be the easiest way, but do you at least have a spare to help diagnose?
If someone has just installed a fuel pump, then possibly they have the rubber line pinched above the fuel tank
If you suspect a bad coolant temp sender or coolant switch, just unplug it to diagnose. In this case, its not your problem
You have a fuel pressure problem.
It could also be a stuck piece of injector o-ring inside the regulator, thats very common.
BW
just checked return line - not return line -
when CTS unplugged car runs slightly worse but not much
do not have another reg to test with -
will check for rubber pieces in reg if not there will order another and get back on the thread when arrives and tested
THANK YOU!!!! THANK YOU!!!! THANK YOU!!!!
when CTS unplugged car runs slightly worse but not much
do not have another reg to test with -
will check for rubber pieces in reg if not there will order another and get back on the thread when arrives and tested
THANK YOU!!!! THANK YOU!!!! THANK YOU!!!!
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Are you sure it's flooding? Maybe it's stumbling. Since you've reduced the fuel pressure to a more correct level, reset the TPS and IAC. Hopefully you have a scantool to do this with.
Two items to check...
1. the Inlet Air Control (IAC) is a controlled vacuum leak. If it is malfuctioning, could be sticking open which tells ECM to add more fuel since it thinks the throttle is opening.
Or,
2. You could have a vacuum line loose or leaking. Has the rubber vacuum hose gotten hard with age and under-hood heat? Might want to replace vacuum hoses.
Conrad
1. the Inlet Air Control (IAC) is a controlled vacuum leak. If it is malfuctioning, could be sticking open which tells ECM to add more fuel since it thinks the throttle is opening.
Or,
2. You could have a vacuum line loose or leaking. Has the rubber vacuum hose gotten hard with age and under-hood heat? Might want to replace vacuum hoses.
Conrad
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
Travis,
I know your getting it narrowed down, we are trying our best.
Could you list the items that you have done to it, and the items that "someone else" may have done or already did in tennessee....
If its coughing or missing, or you think its running rich..
The first thing that comes to mind is either the MAF sensor is making the car run super rich at idle when you smell gas, what are the maf numbers at idle and wot when it pops...
or the fact that its coughing and sputtering could be the coil pack and module. and or cam sensor out 180° will idle fine, but under a load will pop ut thru the intake.
Normally, these cars will idle fine and run great at idle, and once put under a load, the coils will miss and the car will sputter, sometimes the maf is the culprit too.
Also, weve experienced corrosion at the ecm, where the harness plugs into the ECM, if its green or corroded the connection isnt great and the car acts all sorts of weird.
Let us know, just trying to figure it out.
BW
I know your getting it narrowed down, we are trying our best.
Could you list the items that you have done to it, and the items that "someone else" may have done or already did in tennessee....
If its coughing or missing, or you think its running rich..
The first thing that comes to mind is either the MAF sensor is making the car run super rich at idle when you smell gas, what are the maf numbers at idle and wot when it pops...
or the fact that its coughing and sputtering could be the coil pack and module. and or cam sensor out 180° will idle fine, but under a load will pop ut thru the intake.
Normally, these cars will idle fine and run great at idle, and once put under a load, the coils will miss and the car will sputter, sometimes the maf is the culprit too.
Also, weve experienced corrosion at the ecm, where the harness plugs into the ECM, if its green or corroded the connection isnt great and the car acts all sorts of weird.
Let us know, just trying to figure it out.
BW
Bryan and others;
THANK YOU!!!!! I am trying too. My other GN never gave me any problems.
In Tennessee, they replaced the CTS and claimed that it ran great. I have recently replaced the ECM, prom, MAP, MAF, IAC, TPS, fuel filters, plugs, wires, 40# injectors, PCV, EGR, 02, etc. FP is 38, TPS is .40, Do not have a current MAF, etc. I can get one in the am. Lost my home in the flood and am currently ina n apartment where I can not get lights, tools, etc out at night. I will get up to date readings after church. Car idles great, runs great at heavy acceleration, runs GREAT in park or neutral (no load situations), under low acceleration, car sputters and fuel can be smelled from exhaust.
THANK YOU!!!!! I am trying too. My other GN never gave me any problems.
In Tennessee, they replaced the CTS and claimed that it ran great. I have recently replaced the ECM, prom, MAP, MAF, IAC, TPS, fuel filters, plugs, wires, 40# injectors, PCV, EGR, 02, etc. FP is 38, TPS is .40, Do not have a current MAF, etc. I can get one in the am. Lost my home in the flood and am currently ina n apartment where I can not get lights, tools, etc out at night. I will get up to date readings after church. Car idles great, runs great at heavy acceleration, runs GREAT in park or neutral (no load situations), under low acceleration, car sputters and fuel can be smelled from exhaust.
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
First question-
Your running 40# injectors, do you have the correct chip for those larger injectors?
BW
Your running 40# injectors, do you have the correct chip for those larger injectors?
BW
84BuickGNYorkPA
Daily Driving Buick V-6 Turbo's 1979 - Present
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2005
You need a computer chip for the new fuel injectors as stated above, in the mean time pull that dip stick and take a smell. That oil should be changed asap if you smell gas in the oil. Take another look at your plugs, if any look different take note to it's location and change it out, I've had new plugs foul out under boost. Your getting closer to your problem just be persistent and you will find it. It does sound like it's a chip problem though....
Chuck
Chuck
Chip is supposedly set for the new injectors. When I got this car it had this chip (TIMSLBY40) and 40# injectors - All plugs look good - can not smell fuel in oil - after church this am I will hook up scantool and set my IAC and repost
Please keep suggesting - THANK YOU!!!!!!
Please keep suggesting - THANK YOU!!!!!!
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2004
What is the voltage at and does it "dip"?
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2004
Try 3X :biggrin:
I don't think this will make a difference but set your TPS at 0.42-0.46, THEN, reset the ECM, drive it around and have the chip re-learn.
Final suggestion
Maybe that is the issue. After replacing everything, there is are only "so many" left to replace. .... Thought about a chip from TT?
