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Fresh Engine, Break-In and Boost

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Spooling

Member
Joined
May 24, 2001
Messages
271
Earlier today - I managed to fire-up my fresh engine and it fired right-up. I heat-cycled the engine once, changed the oil and filter.
I know it is best to vary RPM for the 1st say 50 miles or so.

When should I put some boost to it and any other break-in tips you want to share is all good by me.

Many Thanks !!!
 
If all is well and smooth I and would go ahead and start with part throttle 3rd gear pulls holding the boost at 4 or 5 pounds running from say 50 to 85 mph, do these pulls 5 or 6 times, then next time you drive it load it to 9 or 10 pounds same thing, and so on. I like to get at least 200 miles on before I go wide open throttle. This has worked very well for me to slowly load the motor and make long pulls. What oil are you using?
 
I put boost to mine first time out. Might not have been the best thing to do but I really couldn't help myself. Zero issues since the first voyage. I have a full roller motor so I didn't have any cam break in steps.
 
After letting it run a minute and checking the fluids, I built 10 to 12lbs boost on the brakes to seat the rings. I don't believe in a gradual break in.
 
Earlier today - I managed to fire-up my fresh engine and it fired right-up. I heat-cycled the engine once, changed the oil and filter.
I know it is best to vary RPM for the 1st say 50 miles or so.

When should I put some boost to it and any other break-in tips you want to share is all good by me.

Many Thanks !!!


If it's a roller cam engine, it's ready to make boost before you get out of the driveway. Load the rings for 5 seconds, coast for 10. Do that 5 or 6 times and you're done.


If it's a flat tappet cam, I hope you held the RPM's up for at least 20 minutes while doing the heat cycle.
 
Excellent Guys - Thanks.

I am running a Billett Hydraulic Roller Camshaft.

The engine oil I selected for break-in is Pennzoil Mineral Oil (30 WT) + 1 Bottle of GM Engine Oil Supplement (EOS).
 
IMO once the engine has been ran initially and heat cycled, good oil psi, no leaks, no overheating, no weird noises, oil has been changed to get the break in lube out of the sump and filter, etc. then it's either right or wrong. I always put some boost to it right off the bat ..5-10 psi keep very close eye on gauges.
 
Thanks for sharing your viewpoints.

It is a Cryogenically Processed 109 Block + 0.030" w/ RJC Girdle with Cryogenically Processed Turbo Crank and Rods.

I am impressed that I have absolutely no leaks - since it has a Block Girdle fitted.

Certainly was a "lot-o-hard-work". Thus far, I am relatively pleased.

Couple more "bugs" to work-out - then it's time to have some fun again - after all of that hard work.
 

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Ed, your car and engine always look top notch, after break in and fluid changes I drive them like I intend to
 
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