Front Brake Questions

[chadly]

I’m doing a little snooping in prior posts trying to find what my options are for new front brakes. I would like to just install rotors, calipers, pads, or what ever is needed and be done. I’m not prepared to make a large change. Can you point me to any good readings that may answer the following questions?

1) What is the minimum thickens a stock rotor can be turned to?
2) Assuming I need new rotors what can be put in place of stock that would be a plug and play and offer improvement (larger diameter)?
3) What is the best pad that does not create a bunch of brake dust and offers good stopping (I hate brake dust)?
4) Is there a caliper that is superior to stock that bolts right up and makes sense to change regardless of the condition of the stock caliper ( or needed with larger rotor)?
5) I assume I should also change brake lines while I’m at it. Can just change the short rubber line?

Thanks for any and all help.
Chad

 

[Anthony P]

1. From the Buick shop manual section 5F-2...G carline
Lateral runout = 0.004"
Rotor thickness (MAX) = 1.043"
Minimum thickness after refinsh = 0.980"
Discard thickness = 0.965"
2. I'd just use stock replacement stuff from the local auto parts store. But check around. Places like AutoZone and NAPA have geographically adjusted pricing.
3. I'd just use stock replacement stuff - maybe a Bendix semi-metallic.
4. Cardone makes a hardware kit (bolts, bushing, washers, pad retainer) and a rebuild kit (hardware plus pistons & seals) for the stock caliper. Kirban's sells them and a rebuilt caliper set that has been powder coated.

Changing sizes of calipers and rotors to something like a Baer setup is $$$$. Need to change spindles as well and may have clearance issues depending what wheels you have.

5. It depends on the condition of the original brake lines. If you have one of the cast iron proportions valves, I'm sure the valve and line fittings are pretty well rusted by now. When I changed everything out, I got a SS complete brake line kit - all pre-bent- from Classic Tube. You can get the brass version proportioning valve from one of the Buick Vendors or from Classic Tube, Jegs, or Summit racing. Both Russell and Classic Tube make a braided SS three piece kit to replace the 3 rubber hose sections.

You can change out only the pieces you want, but take a good look at all of the lines and components. I may just be easier to work with new parts and bleed/flush the system once and be done with it rather than taking the band-aid approach.

-Anthony

 

[jdpolzin]

If you are going to replace the calipers, do the 11" bolt on upgrade. Very simple and a little better than stock! Probably the same cost as well.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/br...71079-11-bolt-brakes.html?highlight=11+brakes

 

[chadly]

Thanks guys. I pulled the tires yesterday and power washed the area. Last night I then inspected everything and it looks like everything is in great shape. No leaks, the car did not pull or pulsate. However the pads are very thin and the rotors mic out at .975. I read through the blazer conversion and since it appears rotors, pads, bearings, and seals are all that will be required I will look further into that project next time around.

I did some calling around this morning and there is $16 dollars difference in rotor cost depending on where you go. Is there a quality difference?

Has anyone ever tried ceramic pads?

 

[jdpolzin]

Ceramic pads will work great for a primarily street car and will have the least amount of dust. If you plan to do mostly drag racing, check out HAWK HPS pads. These are high quality and stick like crazy! The only drawback is that they tend to wear quickly for street use. Hawk also sells a ceramic pad for the street but they arent really any better quality than a simple Raybestos ceramic pad. I personally used Raybestos ceramic pads on my car. As far as rotors, just get a lifetime warranty set from the parts store. ------Jeremy

 

[Anthony P]

As far as rotors go, I too am not sure on stock stuff. I like to look at the Napa online catalog as there are pics, prices, and a few options for each part. With that said, they have premium, ultra-premium, and high performance replacement rotors. I don't see much difference between the first two other than part #( and hence manufacturer) and price. The last one is cross-drilled and someone had a thread about cross-drilled rotors cracking at one time.

I have not experimented with ceramic pads.

 

[chadly]

I bought ceramic pads and the better rotors.

Is there a torque spec on the nut that holds the rotor to the spindle?

 

[Anthony P]

Once you have re-assembled the unit with re-packed bearings...

1. Tighten spindle nut to 12 ft-lbs while turning the wheel. Then back off nut 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

2. Apply an extra layer of grease.

3. Tighten nut by hand until it is finger tight.

4. Loosen the nut no more than 1/6 turn until the nearest hole in the spindle lines up with the slot in the spindle nut. Install new cotter pin.

5. Check for looseness in the hub assembly. There should be no more than 0.001 - 0.005 in. end play.

6. Install cap.

Hope this helps. It is important to set and adjust the bearings.

 

[chadly]

Thanks appreciate the info. I’ve always tightened and loosened the nut as I spun the rotor. Eventually you get to a point where you know bearings are seated and there is no slop of the rotor. I’ll give your way a try.

Thanks
Chad