Front pump removal & Converter ID

[Adam Whitman]

On the PR valve grind 2 flats on the top land,this will help convertor lube. I beleive this also reduces PR buzz. HTH

Great,and thanks. I think the second land has two flats slightly beveled but didn't notice anything on the top land. Are you just talking a couple little flats like 0.050" across the land?

It looks like if I can get the bushing to fit tightly in the pump then I'm good to go.

I will see about the Gil Younger kit (noyoyo), its my favorite kit for the TH-400.

 

[LOT]

No --No

I think the second land has two flats slightly beveled but didn't notice anything on the top land. Are you just talking a couple little flats like 0.050" across the land?

The second land has already been ground. In fact all of it is ground away. Look @ your pressure regulator valve as compared to the picture. The second land is gone.

 

[SSedan64]

TransGo #700-PKH Tough Stuff

Fairly cheap here, about 1/2 what others want>> TransGo Hardened High RPM Oil Pump Ring 700-PKH - eBay (item 390293018636 end time Mar-29-11 03:58:42 PDT)

 

[Adam Whitman]

Hey, that's summit racing even. What are the stock rings made from? I think this may already have the steel rings, and single spring from the 700-PK kit. They ring like steel when you drop them on the table instead of like cast-iron.

Installed the new front bushing with a little bit of loctite sleeve retainer. It fit nice and tight and I was glad to have a press. Knocking that in in there squarely with a hammer would have been a bugger. Will stake the front side before installing the seal.

Waiting on my TCS D5 converter to arrive.

Fingers crossed on the rest of the trans but it seems to be in good shape and have had good parts installed everywhere I've looked.

Will check the servo springs and report back.

A little vaseline and ATF in the pump on assembly?

 

[Adam Whitman]

one more thing; torque spec for the pump half assemblies and torque spec for the pump to trans bolts?

 

[Steve V]

My bad I did not look at your pic of the PR valve. That land is gone,I would get another PR valve and just grind to small flats on the top land. I was told that removing it entirely causes too much line pressure loss.

 

[Adam Whitman]

Well, better to get the bad news now than after it's back in! I think I know where there is a core to get a valve from.

 

[SSedan64]

The Pump Bushing needs to be staked from the rear side, inside the Pocket. This keeps it from moving forward & cutting the Seal. Just making sure as you said stake the front.
Stock Rings are Cast Iron.
Lube all the Pump parts & Valves well with Vaseline.
Torque is 15-20 ft/lbs. on both Pump halves & Pump to Case.
Maybe I didn't miss anything.
Todd

 

[turbo nasty]

The trans go no yo yo High Rev pump kit is a good one. Not sure if it has been mentioned yet.

 

[Steve V]

PR valve is the same as 700r4 and maybe some early 4l60es..should be as easy find. 18 ftlbs is what I use on pump halfs.

we got us a nice little thread going...good info.

 

[LOT]

land

My bad I did not look at your pic of the PR valve. That land is gone,I would get another PR valve and just grind to small flats on the top land. I was told that removing it entirely causes too much line pressure loss.

I have the instructions from a NO YO YO kit, it mentions nothing about grinding flats on the TOP land but grind them on the second land.

 

[Adam Whitman]

Well, I found another PR valve and ground flats on the second land, I wouldn't call them small, but about half of the land is still there which is much more than with the other valve where the land is completely gone. Wish I could do this one over but I'm pretty much stuck with half a land now. Hope that is better than no land at all.

Yes, this thread is quite informative. I am grateful to all who are contributing. I'm surprised there isn't already a good thread on the basics of pump inspection and prep. to go along with Bruce's more advanced how-to. Now if I could just rename it for the next guy who searches...

 

[Steve V]

I have the instructions from a NO YO YO kit, it mentions nothing about grinding flats on the TOP land but grind them on the second land.

Thanks for pointing that out...I should've said 2nd land. Do not mess with the top land at all.....my bad

 

[Adam Whitman]

The Pump Bushing needs to be staked from the rear side, inside the Pocket. This keeps it from moving forward & cutting the Seal. Just making sure as you said stake the front.

Todd

You lost me here, I staked the front so the bearing can't walk forward or it will just get tighter. Were I to stake the rear (pump side) I'd be risking the pump surface, no? Or I'm missing the point entirely.

Front seal should be here today, hopefully the converter is here tomorrow.

Praying I didn't grind too much from that second land on the PR to un-do the damage from its entire removal. Operative word there was "small amount" and I missed it.

 

[LOT]

2nd land

You lost me here, I staked the front so the bearing can't walk forward or it will just get tighter. Were I to stake the rear (pump side) I'd be risking the pump surface, no? Or I'm missing the point entirely.

Front seal should be here today, hopefully the converter is here tomorrow.

Praying I didn't grind too much from that second land on the PR to un-do the damage from its entire removal. Operative word there was "small amount" and I missed it.

I've seen them ground all the way off, your included, I just touch them on a grinding wheel and make a couple small flats. You're OK. IMHO, you would be well served to go back with a .500 boost valve (or better yet 1 of the vendors has a .530 whicjh I like) .300 reverse boost valve and a TCI (part # 374300) pink 275 psi pressure regulator spring. Assume you don't already have these parts. Best of luck.--Lee

 

[Adam Whitman]

Don't I have a .500 boost valve and .380 reverse boost valve? (see pic above)

 

[LOT]

boost valves

Don't I have a .500 boost valve and .380 reverse boost valve? (see pic above)

If the measurment you're showing for the boost valve (one closest to the snap ring) .500 is the ID of bore--Yes. The reverse boost valve --measure the small end of spool--that is your size. Could be .296 or .300 --either will be ok. I believe stock is .267.

 

[Adam Whitman]

Yep, boost valve for sure, and the reverse boost valve was bigger than the stocker from the core.

It's all together now, have to get atf and fill the converter, rear seal, torque the pan and I'm ready to go in. Cross fingers! Probably a few days before it's ready to test for leaks, probably not a test drive for a couple of weeks....

Thanks again for everyone's advice. You saved me some coin and serious headaches!