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front pump

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ST. RACE

New Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2001
Messages
22
When changeing my con. i noticed the splines no front pump were 1/2 wore out, almost rooled over. I need to change the pump.can i get a stock one or up grade best place to get it.---- Does this mean i should look for outher internal problems or is f/p spline damage self contained. need to go cheep rout spent all my $$$ on turbo-inj-chip-n/lconv-linelock big w/c-rear seal(lots of work ror a 5$ part hehe)valve springs// THANKS FOR ANY HELP
 
You don't necessarily need an entire front pump assembly.

What you do need is a heat treated stator support tube. It's available from most major vendors.
 
Read this when you go to change...

*PUMP STATOR:
A hardned stator should always be installed. But there is a correct way to do this and a hacker way to do this. We will discuss the correct way and if anything varies from this it would fall into the other catagory.
Remove bolts from old stator. PRESS out with a press, not with a hammer by beating on. If the stator just falls out when pressed against a bench, ck bore closely for damage, and or walking. Now to install stator red loctite the base surface. Clean the bore cavity real well. Use dowel pins to guide as you press it in . DO NOT BEAT IN WITH HAMMER!!!! after presed in,replace screws with a drop of loctite and reinstall.Stator Guide pin is also OD clutch washer lube. Drill feed hole .040 for feed to washer.Drill seal return hole 9/64ths as well. Now after stator has been pressed in , chuck it up in lathe and ck for the stator to be perpendicular to the pump surface. I only see 1 in 20 that is actually perfectly straight...1-20!!!!!!!!!! So then to resurface perpendicular to the stator, we must "parrell deck" meaning you cut the back side of pump , then bring carriage around and cut the front side without moving material being machined, so everything is cut to center....... meaning the stator is EXACTLY 90 degrees to the pump surface. Not doing this is a big cause for front pump failure as if it is not performed,they are fighting center all the time and will eventually bind in cavity. End result,premature pump failure.
For even more info visit....
http://63.200.89.2:82/faq/display_faq.asp?faq_id=4
good luck..
 
stator chance

Looks like i can change stator my self but not get it in straight correct ? car is on rack in buddys garage kind of need to replace and back in car in a couple days.should i try to get stock one and go from there for now.Plan to do real trans later . OR can a local shop make new one straight. Thanks for all the help.
 
Ok then....

Call Vince Janis in the morning. He is in Akron. No reason on Gods green earth you cannot have running by Wed. Phone # is 330-753-6609.
Explain to him your dilemma and explain to him that I off here sent you to him. He will have you going by the time frame you allowed, and you KNOW that you got the right stuff. He will be able to install and ck so you are ready to go. If not, in an extreme situation, we could overnight you one, but , I really believe Vince could help you without a freight charge and at a cheaper expense to you. You got nothing to lose but a phone call. If for some reason you are still stuck, I will be home and back in shop Tuesday Morning. :) Good Luck
 
Like riding?

If you like looking out the windshield instead of up at your car on a rack, get that pump straight either via machine shop or buy one from PTS. I've broken the convertor hub and ate up the pump in two "fresh" rebuilds. All three included a heat-treated stator install without any further attention to detail. When thay failed, my ex-trannie guy had lots of maybe this maybe that but not a clue to the actual cause. Now I know!

Whenever you install a convertor stator support, machine the pump stator square! Otherwise, roll the dice.

Thanks for the enlightment, Bruce.
 
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