Front Suspension rebuild??

[1952ray]

If the bushings are poly you will not find just one grease to do all. The poly bushings use a synthetic water-proof grease, the clear sticky stuff. Everything else ,the yesterday blue grease

 

[TexasT]

2) I am going to try and put the springs in tomorrow. I used a chain wrapped around the spring and the frame when I removed them, is it necessary to do the same on the install?

I would but it is your call. They didn't loose tension and can fly out whether you are pulling or installing.
Safety first for me.

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[charlief1]

I prefer the mobil 1 synthetic or a synthetic blend.

 

[oc192]

wow, tried putting a spring in, what a PITA!!! I basically needed about 1/2 inch more and I could have put a nut on the upper control arm. it appears the issue may be the spring compressor itself or the way I am applying it. The main drive bolt sticks out about a half inch on both ends so it is resting on the lower control arm. If the bolt was shorter I could of had the spring in.

Think I may try this one next...

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PFM0/W80554/N2403.oap?ck=Search_spring compressors_-1_3650&keyword=spring compressors

Or.... I could put a 1/2 inch spacer on that drive bolt, that should move the head a 1/2 closer where I have room and bring the other end in a half inch.

 

[TexasT]

Hence the chain. Put it in and jack up the a arm so you can get the ball joints fastened. I'd stay to the side even if you chain it. That spring compressor is holding back plenty of force. You are doing well if you got this far.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[oc192]

OK, everything has been put back together and I took it in for an alignment. The shop advised he could not do anything about the negative camber as he removed all of the shims on one side and it still is off. He said the upper control arms need to be a little longer to correct the camber? I have attached the spec sheet with the alignment. Its all greek to me but it appears everything is off. Are these specs within reason for what I have replaced or do I need to go someplace else for the alignment? I replaced both upper (gbodyparts) and lower control arms (UMI)

with standard balljoints and all of the tie rods, center link, idler arm, swaybar endlinks etc.

 

[1KWIKSIX]

OK, everything has been put back together and I took it in for an alignment. The shop advised he could not do anything about the negative camber as he removed all of the shims on one side and it still is off. He said the upper control arms need to be a little longer to correct the camber? I have attached the spec sheet with the alignment. Its all greek to me but it appears everything is off. Are these specs within reason for what I have replaced or do I need to go someplace else for the alignment? I replaced both upper (gbodyparts) and lower control arms (UMI) View attachment 237975 with standard balljoints and all of the tie rods, center link, idler arm, swaybar endlinks etc.

I've got the same set up on my car. Only difference is I went with 1/2" taller upper ball joints on mine. There are a bunch of shims used on mine (more on the left side though).

I've dug up the alignment sheet to see how they compare.

Here's where mine ended up at:

Front - Caster (Left) 4.8 deg (Right) 5.0 deg
- Camber (Left) -0.6 deg (Right) -0.5
- Toe (Left) 0.05 deg (Right) 0.05 deg
- Total Toe 0.10 deg

Rear - Camber (Left) -0.6 deg (Right) -0.5 deg
- Toe (Left) 0.15 deg (Right) -o.20 deg
- Total Toe -0.05 deg

Thrust Angle 0.2 deg

Found some notes on the back of the alignment spec sheet.
Camber / Caster Shims used per upper control arm:

Left Side Right Side
F - (2) 1/8" & (1) 1/32" F - (1) 1/8"
R - (9) 1/8" R - (6) 1/8"



dave

 

[Boost231]

.

 

[Boost231]

By the way, I just got my car aligned today as well

 

[charlief1]

That guys has no clue what he's doing. He needs to take some shims out of the front so you've got a little caster. The camber should be closer to 0 and the caster will be high enough to provide some stability. Go to the top of the suspension section and look at the stickys. There's one about brake and suspension mods. It's got several links in it, and mine, about setting alignment specs for drag racing.

 

[Paul69camaro]

Charlie is right, your caster is way off. I don't know much about drag racing alignment specs but you normally want to run as much positive caster as you can get (to match spindle KPI) while still keeping the wheel centered in the wheel well. Your camber is good for a handling application but it is aggressive for a street car and probably not ideal for drag racing. I run my car at -1.2 degrees camber and 8.3 degrees caster but it's setup for handling and not drag racing. There is a possibility that the control arms are not compatible with each other but before drawing that conclusion follow Charlie's advice and see if he can correct the alignment.