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Fuel Line Re-route

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Spoolin Hooligan

Off the wagon Boost Addict
Joined
Aug 7, 2011
Messages
652
I am going to replace my fuel lines and I traced them out today....its a f-ing maze. Can i reroute the fuel lines so its easier to put back. and as I've said a few times im new at this but i found a small little extra fuel tank. about twice the size of a solo cup. front right side of engine bay. WTF is that for? and more quetsion anyone know what are the stock fittings size for the fuel line i will need from the engine to the fuel pump

thanks ZANE
 
feed lines are all 3/8"
connection at the fuel rail saginaw male M16 x 1.5 and steel line with crimped rubber hose section down by the frame connection to allow for motor movement
connection at frame are saginaw m16 x 1.5 female on engine feed line, male on the end of the steel line at frame
connections at fuel filter lines are saginaw m16 x 1.5 male , filter is female
from filter its 3/8 steel line over to above the axle (passenger side )
above the axle is a 3/8 rubber fuel hose to a steel line which runs to the front of the fuel tank
at the front of tank is another rubber hose to the sending unit
all rubber connections on feed side are under high pressure and get double clamped at each end
 
feed lines are all 3/8"
connection at the fuel rail saginaw male M16 x 1.5 and steel line with crimped rubber hose section down by the frame connection to allow for motor movement
connection at frame are saginaw m16 x 1.5 male on engine feed line, male on the end of the steel line at frame
connections at fuel filter lines are saginaw m16 x 1.5 male , filter is female
from filter its 3/8 steel line over to above the axle (passenger side )
above the axle is a 3/8 rubber fuel hose to a steel line which runs to the front of the fuel tank
at the front of tank is another rubber hose to the sending unit
all rubber connections on feed side are under high pressure and get double clamped at each end
Wow thanks......but I forgot to mention I'm using steel braided line
 
why should that matter , the info is there ..read
the rail is female saginaw m16x1.5 (needs a male fitting or weld a bung )and its a 3/8 steel pipe at the tank .. either weld a bung or use a hose barb adapter to AN , or just push -8AN hose on and double clamp it
 
why should that matter , the info is there ..read
the rail is female saginaw m16x1.5 (needs a male fitting or weld a bung )and its a 3/8 steel pipe at the tank .. either weld a bung or use a hose barb adapter to AN , or just push -8AN hose on and double clamp it

So i broke this down to what i think i need i am going to order the fittings and hose tonight just wanted to make sure i got it right.....

2 saginaw male M16 x 1.5
2 saginaw m16 x 1.5 female
a couple clamps for rubber hose i can probaly get at auto store
i was gonna run 8-AN supply 6- AN return

Now 2 qustions i'm replacing the return line too. what fittings will i need for that, break it down for me I'm not the brightest when it comes to parts. and can i just run the lines straight from the gas tank to the engine without zig zagging everywhere.

Thanks for your help and patience
 
No..

2 saginaw male M16 x 1.5
2 saginaw m16 x 1.5 female

saginaw to what ?? you only have one side of the fitting and a fitting needs two sizes
what are you using the female fittings on?

if your plans are to replace all from tank you need
fitting for the fuel rail.............. 1 male saginaw M16x1.5 to -8AN male
if plans are to use the stock filter youll need 3 of those fittings (i would just get a new inline -8 filter)

for return its m14x1.5 saginaw male at the regulator
youll need a saginaw m14x1.5 male 90degree to -6AN
you can find a m14 x 1.5 90* to 3/8 jic37 at discounthydraulichose.com


if plans arent to go to a double pumper i dont see why you need the an lines
 
thanks for the break down as you can tell i have know idea what im doing. As for why I'm doing AN lines because i have a fuel leak on my supply line and instead of replacing it with stock line i figure i would be ahead of the curve by just getting AN line in case in the future i want to run E85.
 
It isn't THAT hard to replace the stock lines. Just unbolt the body and lift it up a few inches.
 
It isn't THAT hard to replace the stock lines. Just unbolt the body and lift it up a few inches.

maybe for you but when you have very little tools and very little knowledge. it's not as easy i wouldnt even know what freaking bolts to take off. I'm having somebody replace the fuel line for me. Thats why i needed to know the sizes so i can order them. Went to HS with him.
 
His sig says roll cage. Doubt he can raise up the body easily if the bar is welded to the frame...
 
If you have a leak in a stock line you can replace a section of tubing with a piece of new tubing and a couple of compression fittings. NAPA has them in stock hanging on the shelf. It'll cost you a ton of money to convert to braided steel and it WILL smell up your garage because it weeps through the hose (rubber) You need to use TFE hose and fittings if you don;t want to smell the fumes in a gararge. Repair and keep your stock lines. For about $15 in parts and $25 in tools you can fix your leak. PM me for my number if you would like to talk about it.
 
If you have a leak in a stock line you can replace a section of tubing with a piece of new tubing and a couple of compression fittings. NAPA has them in stock hanging on the shelf. It'll cost you a ton of money to convert to braided steel and it WILL smell up your garage because it weeps through the hose (rubber) You need to use TFE hose and fittings if you don;t want to smell the fumes in a gararge. Repair and keep your stock lines. For about $15 in parts and $25 in tools you can fix your leak. PM me for my number if you would like to talk about it.
PM sent
 
Any opinions on running the fuel lines on the driver's side if you were to run braided line?
 
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