Fuel Pressure gauge & Powerlogger reading

Rod Hartzell

New Member
I bought a rebuilt 3.8 v6. Installed it in an Anglia 300e. Everything is new, water pump, 3 core radiator, cap, thermostat. Temperature reaches 270 in less than 10 minutes.
Have good flow through radiator, but the block gets extremely hot. Pulled engine back out & completely rebuilt again, using better parts. Same problem, even with bigger electric fan. block casting # is 1254083, head casting # is 1254170. thanx , rod
is it possible that the water pump is incorrect for the block? I'm going to ask some stupid questions....Anyone know the applications of that block? Sounds like flow blocked or can pump be rotating in the wrong direction? Try removing the hose from block water outlet when cold and start up and see if it's pushing volume? Thermostat not opening? Gasket blocking hole? just spit-balling.
Tried reversing water pump, tried hi flow water pump. tried two different thermostats, no thermostat, gutted thermostat, drilled 1/8" hole in thermostat. Changed radiator cap to 20# , drove it 8 miles, & blew the lower radiator hose off at the radiator.
You're burping the system and getting all the air out after each of these changes, yes?

Front Mount Intercooler?
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You can check flow with the upper rad hose off. Start with a cool engine after a while of idling the thermostat will open and quite a bit water should start flowing out of upper hose. Be really careful on a normal engine the water will be hot but you may have an even more dangerous situation. If you have flow and the parts are new maybe the gauge is faulty. There also may be a crack in the block causing compression in the system. That'll make it barf.
We only need a few things to have a cool running engine .
Heads and block no cracks, with good gaskets.
A water pump spinning correct direction for belt and thermostat design.
An unclogged radiator and hoses.
A pressure cap.
A fan of the right size.
Clutch fan setups can be more tricky, electric are easier to keep cool.
Coolant mix or water or both.
Airflow through the rad when traveling.

We had a Jeep Cherokee that ran hot when towing. Everything seems ok, but I couldn't get a good look at the radiator but I found the fins all fell off of it. The tubes were still there but no fins to transfer the heat.
That block could be odd or even fire. Heads were of even fire first year.
Is it a even fire crank And distributor ? Vacuum advance distributor ? Is this a aftermarket 4 barrel carb?
What was the rod main bearing and most important thrust bearing clearance? Is it a automatic or stick? If it’s a stick do you have clutch free play? V belt setup? Lots of questions but a mismatch set of parts can make you life missable. Just count your lucky stars it not a Ford