fuel pressure?

[86grdnatl]

Ok I installed my boost gauge and it got up to twelve lbs of boost before the hesitation and bucking started. I guess I'll try the fuel pressure gauge again to see if there is an increase that corresponds with the increase in boost.

 

[Ttype6]

I guess I'll try the fuel pressure gauge again to see if there is an increase that corresponds with the increase in boost.

If it makes 12 lbs of boost.you need to make 51 lbs of fuel pressure. If the fuel pressure doesn't rise to 51 lbs,you have a fuel delivery problem. Check voltage with engine running.

 

[86grdnatl]

ok i will let you know when i test the car again. Quick question, my maf sensor is in the shape of an hourglass and i got it from a local auto parts store. Multiple people on hear say that these local parts stores maf sensors cant be trusted, i tried the tap test with a screwdriver at idle and noticed no difference in how it idled. I also unplugged it while it was at idle and the car sounded like it was going to die, but after a couple of minutes of it running like crap (never dying) i plugged it back in and turned the car off. Do you agree that the local parts store maf sensors are junk? and do you know of a better way that i could test if its working correctly?

 

[Ttype6]

ok i will let you know when i test the car again. Quick question, my maf sensor is in the shape of an hourglass and i got it from a local auto parts store. Multiple people on hear say that these local parts stores maf sensors cant be trusted, i tried the tap test with a screwdriver at idle and noticed no difference in how it idled. I also unplugged it while it was at idle and the car sounded like it was going to die, but after a couple of minutes of it running like crap (never dying) i plugged it back in and turned the car off. Do you agree that the local parts store maf sensors are junk? and do you know of a better way that i could test if its working correctly?

I had one,out of many tried,that worked correctly. The one you have isn't,even,the right one. The factory sensor remained the same diameter throughout the full length. I recommend a Translator Plus and 3" MAF. No need to buy a new MAF as many GM cars use them and they are available at any salvage yard.. My 4.3 S10 and 99" 3.1 Monte Carlo for instance. I also recommend an Extender chip to go with it. They're an awesome package. They compliment each other.. It makes no sense to by a Translator and then by another brand of chip.

The best way to see how it is functioning is with a Scanmaster. If you had a Scanmaster and a Powerlogger,it would be even better,but you only need a Scanmaster

 

[86grdnatl]

alright because i have a scanmaster 2.1 that just got delivered. Im now trying to figure out how to install it. i know you connect the black wire to a good ground, and the red wire to a fused power source (most people use the ign terminal in the fuse box) and then connect the white wire to the pin E on the aldl connector under the dash. These may be stupid questions, but how would i connect the red wire to the ign terminal? and it says to crimp or splice the white wire to the orange wire going to pin E. Do you know how that would work? again sorry, im new to this electronic stuff

 

[Ttype6]

These may be stupid questions, but how would i connect the red wire to the ign terminal?

Go to the hardware store,or Lowe's,or Home Depot and get some of these and a crimper to crimp one onto the end of the red wire and insert it into the ign receptacle on the fuse block.

http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/male-spade-terminal.html

It says to crimp or splice the white wire to the orange wire going to pin E.

While you are at the store,get some of these to connect the white wire to the orange wire.

http://www.google.com/search?q=scotch lock&hl=en&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=RCYTUJy4CMf1rAHYpYCYBw&ved=0CGUQsAQ&biw=1024&bih=605

 

[86grdnatl]

Thanks alot for all the info, you've been a great deal of help

 

[sean lawrence]

just put a stock delco fuel pump in it and your done problem solved. a delco pump will even support 80 psi if you like. but you only need 45 psi. hey its working like a champ for me.

 

[Heisenberg]

My Scanmaster wiring pics

I brought the ground to the accelerator pedal bracket back to the fuse box.
Note - for the ground attachments at the fuse box - I installed a threaded stud in the space where the flasher relay goes in a other G-bodies.
I did this so my pairs of wires could be fed and grounded all in the same place - i.e. not having to run grounds all over the place away from the fuse panel.
Also - added an extra fuse block to the upper right of the accelerator pedal on the firewall - just because while I was laying on my back jammed up under the dash.

With a power drill - Twisted a black and a red wire together - and ran to the Scanmaster
Covered those in black convoluted tubing where they exited from under the dash.
Used a nylon wire clamp with one of the under dash screws to keep it nice n tidy.

You can see the red wire in the left of the picture - where I stabbed it into the spare IGN terminal.
The spades shown in the Ttype's previous post you will find are a tad too wide to stab them in the spare connection points on the fuse panel - without clipping, dremeling, or modifying them.
At least I did.
I found the smaller gold plated "audio type" spades (Advance Auto or others) are a better fit - although they are quite a bit more flimsy than the larger size. So you have to exercise some restraint.

I also did the stab trick to the ALDL connector rather than splice into the orange wire.
But on occasion, it works itself loose - and I have the fiddle it - so I think splicing into the orange wire is mo better.
I seem to remember fighting the width and thickness problem and ended up taking an audio 'Female" and squishing it with my pliers to have the right width, but enough thickness to get a good bite.
But don't hold me to that.