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Fuel Problem???? (HELP)

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Black1986Beast

No!! It's NOT A Monte!!!
Joined
Jan 14, 2002
Messages
209
Alright, well some of you know that it was about 9 days ago that I finally solved my transmission/rear end problem..$2,700 later the GN is runnin great, faster than ever..and now let me take you to TODAY:
Well I drive it to school everything's pretty much fine..THEN AFTER SCHOOL I get in the car and go to start it, It sounded and felt like it was going to start as I was cranking it, but it didnt. I did this about 3 times with the same result (felt and sounded like it was going to start, but didnt) So the 4th time I crank it while giving it some gas and it would start. I noticed that the idle was very low around 500-550rpm, it would usually jump up to around 750. So I drive to my friends shop and just for the hell of it I changed the plugs (they havent been changed since I owned it)..No luck.
By the way, On the way to the shop (about a 2 mile drive) it stalled 3 times as I was driving. I would be going and I'd take my foot off the gas and the RPMs would drop way down (around 500-600) for alittle bit and then it would stall. This happened 3 times..on the way home from the shop it happened twice. It happens as Im coming to a stop too. I also noticed that I have to press the pedal down more than usual to get it going and it doesnt have the power that it had. My brother and his friend think fuel pump. Possibly even regulator??
What do you think?
Thanks
 
Sounds like your maf is dying.

Hows the O2 sensor?

What are the scanmaster #'s at idle?
 
well the O2 sensor is fairly new..I replaced that in july.
The maf hasnt been replaced (by me anyway), but I'll get idle #'s tomorrow.
Any other ideas?
 
Classic MAF syptoms. Inevitable. You can hedge your bets and try a rebuilt (new is N/A), or be much happier with the result of going w/a Translator and an LT1/LS1 3 or 3.5" MAF. The car will run/idle better, the late MAF's are vastly superior pieces, and the kicker is greater tunability. Ck it out..
www.ramchargers.com
 
Scanmaster #'s

Ok, at idle after letting the car warm for alittle bit, the O2's were alittle erradic (normal?)
O2's AF L8 Int IAC
238 09 47 127 120 isn't the IAC WAY too high??
585 06 43 Could that be what's causing
378 All of this?
734
777
503
617
730
222
738
710
421
523
703
201
726
492
308

The scanmaster didn't throw any codes yesterday. Once I got the idle #'s I unplugged the MAF and restarted. The O2's seemed to be steady in the 700s but the IACs were in the 140's.
As I did this I got a code 34 which is a bad/unplugged MAF and the Engine light was on. (Note: as I was taking the maf off I broke the clip that snaps it into place) So I plugged the maf back in and restarted and the code was still 34, but the engine light was off. Is it just stuck on 34 or could it mean the MAF is bad? (could it also be because of the broken clip?? does it actually hold it in THAT much?? I know the maf is plugged in and in all the way.
I think I need to adjust the IAC's but could that be the cause of ALL of this?? And how could they suddenly be so out of whack??
 
Well your ecm probably just stored the code when you unplugged the maf. Unplug the orange wire to reset the ecm. You need to get under your car and check out the crank sensor. Also the cam sensor can cause all kinds of things to go crazy. You say you suspect the pump, are you getting good pressure? On the iac counts, wait till your car is fully warm and in closed loop to check. My o2. Good luck.
 
There could be something wrong with the IAC motor. You say your idle speed is too low, yet the IAC #'s are in the 120-140's? You could try opening the throttle blade more with the throttle stop screw (min air), then restart the car once or twice to reset it. See if the IAC # comes down. (Make sure the car is fully warm.)

Eric
 
Well I did the MAF tap test and nothing happened..so isnt that good and it means it's not the maf??
Could it even be the fuel filter?
Any other ideas?
 
Start the car, then unplug the cam sensor and see if the idle improves. If it does, you may have something flaky going on there.
 
Cam sensor

And where might that be located? In DETAIL, lol
Also I dont think it would exactly be something idle related..Im mainly worried about the fact that it stalls when Im driving..mostly when I get on it and then let off..the RPMs will drop down pretty low and then it'll stall. Also that I have to press the gas down more to get it moving more..almost like it's not responding. That's why I think it's a fuel problem like pump or filter or something..what else is there?
 
Well do you have good fuel pressure?? You need to determine that first, and if you do I would start to look elsewhere. I'm telling you the cam sensor can cause all kinds of crazy things like you describe if it is not properly set, or it has a physical problem. If your standing in front of your car with the hood up, locate the alternator, then look just to the left, it has a black round cap, and you'll see where it plugs into your harness. After the car is started, unplug it, that will throw it into batch fire mode, and see if you notice any difference. If your still concerned about the pump, there is a certain amount of time it should take for it to pump say a gallon of gas. Cant remember the numbers on it though.

Edit: I dont see any mention of your tps. What are your numbers there?
 
Im pretty sure fuel pressure is good..it's over 40psi at idle, isn't that good?
Also, Eric said he set the TPS when he had my car for the trans/rear end project. It's been at .48 ever since and it ran great for 10 days after I got it back from him and it's still set at .48 so I dont think it could be that.
 
Yea that fuel presure is ok. Actually .48 on the tps is out of range on the high side at idle, and you need to check it at wot as well. And if your iac counts are really that high at idle, you need to get them way down. Check this quick reference out:

http://www.gnttype.org/maint/quickref.html
 
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