I’ve been brain storming about running a pair of Walbro 340s instead of buying a big fuel pump. Is constantly running two Walbro 340s to much fuel for a T/R? It would be no different than running an Aeromotive A1000 full speed all of the time. You are supposed to run a controller so the A1000 doesn’t burn itself up or heat up the fuel. Why can’t you use the same controller to run a pair of intake 340s? It would be the same as a double pumper with out the Hobbs switch. This way you can use all of the factory stuff and everybody and their brother could not here the pump running. I would imagine this set up would be good down to low to mid tens. You definitely don’t want to push it much further because of the size of the factory fuel lines. What do you think?
Fuel pump questions
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turbofabricator
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I will be installing two 340's intank very soon. I built a dual outlet sending unit using two 3/8" lines instead of TEEing the two pumps intank through one 3/8" line. I will install an aftermarket regulator to control the pressure as all the replacement regulators still have too small a return orafice to handle the added volume. I am not too thrilled with staging the second pump, as it causes spikes in the fuel curve, and provides Mr. Murphy one more place to screw with my pistons.
Here's the thread on how to make the dual outlet sending unit. I used a plasma cutter, (though a band saw would work just fine) and a punch and aluminum mandrel to form the holes in the top plate. I used auto parts store 3/8" steel tubing ('cuase stainless was WAY too expensive and not needed) and I silver soldered the pieces all together. I made the electrical connections out of 3/8" nylon bolts and drilled them through the center to install a stainless 3/16" allen screw to use as a conductor. Anyone with decent fabrication skills can do the same thing in their garage/shop. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/215155-new-double-pumper-sending-unit.html
Here's the thread on how to make the dual outlet sending unit. I used a plasma cutter, (though a band saw would work just fine) and a punch and aluminum mandrel to form the holes in the top plate. I used auto parts store 3/8" steel tubing ('cuase stainless was WAY too expensive and not needed) and I silver soldered the pieces all together. I made the electrical connections out of 3/8" nylon bolts and drilled them through the center to install a stainless 3/16" allen screw to use as a conductor. Anyone with decent fabrication skills can do the same thing in their garage/shop. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/215155-new-double-pumper-sending-unit.htmlMajorBoost
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I don't really want to go much faster than I am at the current moment. I popped both head gaskets at Columbus. Plus on the dyno I was told it was starting to run out of fuel. I got a pretty good deal on a Aeromotive fuel pump controller. I am not crazy about the whole Hobbs switch deal. I know that it has been used millions of time. But it is just one more thing that could go wrong. I was thinking it would be a better way to build a double pumper. Plus it wouldn't have the fuel spike that the hobbs switch would.
Thanks for all of the information on building a new sending unit. I have access to everything that you mentioned. And the thought has crossed my mind.
Thanks for all of the information on building a new sending unit. I have access to everything that you mentioned. And the thought has crossed my mind.
