Fuel upgrades tomorrow...questions!!

[WH1_T-Type]

put the stock FPR on and removed the FP gauge. Nothing. Definitely cannot hear the pump at all.

 

[WH1_T-Type]

Found the fuse for the pump.....it was blown. Replaced it and the car started...BUT it won't stay started. Put the gauge back on and pressure has yet to go above 32psi even when giving it gas. Have to give it gas the whole time to keep it running.

 

[WH1_T-Type]

Got the car to stay started. Possible that all the hooking and unhooking I did of the various fuel parts drained enough gas to where it just took some time to get fuel back to the engine???

Reg FPR is on there now. FP @ idle doesn't go above 28psi! I'm pretty sure it is supposed to be higher then that!!!!

 

[Boost231]

Sounds like it is time for a pump. Line off should be around 42 or 43

 

[WH1_T-Type]

Well...I took apart the ADJ FPR and peeked at it. It was a bit scammer in there (this was a used unit)...cleaned it out, put it back on, hooked it all back up and increased pressure a bunch. Took it out and pressure wouldn't get above 50 at WOT. Stopped at a gas station and popped the hood and took a look. Because I hadn't been able to get one of the side bolts on to the FPR I had just given up for a bit and wanted to see if it was working...well that lack of extra pressure wasn't forcing the O-ring to sit right and the thing was spitting fuel out the back like crazy. Took it home and managed to get that bolt back in.

Now It is sitting around 40 at idle right now and at full throttle gets up to about 55 with around 13-14lbs of boost.

Seems like the problem was a combo of that fuse blowing and just sucking the fuel back into the engine after draining so much out of it.

with the ADJ FPR, a new PCV valve, clean oil, clean trans fluid, it really seemed like the car responded to the throttle better. I REALLY wish I hadn't run into trouble and had been able to get the pump/hot wire in, but oh well. I think I have some specific questions that I want to ask about the hot wire anyways so this will just give me a chance to ask.

Not done yet: rear end fluid change, fuel pump/hot wire, TT chip, spark plugs, clean my K&N filter. Next Sunday is going to be full again!! (work for the next three days)

Side note...while making the attempt at the fuel tank the wrench came off and cracked me in the forehead. Ow. I have a pretty good size gash there now.

I hope other newbies read this thread an learn from my mistakes and my questions...but in a matter of weeks this thread will be lost depths! lol

 

[1 in 2000]

Should spray some WD-40 on those bolts while its sitting. I started shooting mine a week before doing the job.

 

[WH1_T-Type]

Good idea. I will start that tonight when I get home from work.

NEW PROBLEM!! when I first start the car the idle goes to about 1k put starts to rapidly rev up and down by maybe a 100 rpm's. This change doesn't really read on the scanmaster because I think it is happening too quickly for it to register on it. I can see the fuel pressure bouncing up and down by a few psi. It does seem to even up eventually.

While driving it does it anytime I come off of the throttle. It will bounce about 4-6 times and then it will even up and run fine. It did that all the way through a 30 minute drive.

 

[Heg87t]

Good idea. I will start that tonight when I get home from work.

NEW PROBLEM!! when I first start the car the idle goes to about 1k put starts to rapidly rev up and down by maybe a 100 rpm's. This change doesn't really read on the scanmaster because I think it is happening too quickly for it to register on it. I can see the fuel pressure bouncing up and down by a few psi. It does seem to even up eventually.

While driving it does it anytime I come off of the throttle. It will bounce about 4-6 times and then it will even up and run fine. It did that all the way through a 30 minute drive.

Unplug the ECM and change to your TT chip and see if it's better. Might need to reset the IAC.
Might want to do the hot wire also. It will help any pump perform to it's fullest. I did my Racetronix unit in about 45 minutes one night. Pretty easy.

 

[WH1_T-Type]

Not sure what time it is going to be by the time I am done with work and the gym, but if there is anychance of some light when I start I will look at getting that TT chip in.

Thought: could it be that my pump is causing the pulsing due to not being effeciant enough at the constant higher pressure that the ADJ FPR is causing? I am going to turn down the pressure slightly and see if there is any effect.

I am positive that I won't get a chance to install the hotwire or new pump till Sunday at the earliest.

 

[WH1_T-Type]

TTT for anyone elses thoughts on the bouncing RPM's!!

 

[Boost231]

Did you reset the ecm? What the fuel pressure at line off

 

[WH1_T-Type]

When you mean line off do you mean when sitting in drive or when you initially take off? It's about 39psi in drive at a stop.

To reset the ECM I just pull the orange wire from the battery correct?

 

[Boost231]

Yes just disconnect the orange wire for a few min. As far as the fuel pressure keep it in park at idel and pull the vac. Line off the regulator and see what the pressure is at.

 

[WH1_T-Type]

Well, TT chip is in. car isn't do the bounce BUT I didn't hear it at all when I got done with work this afternoon either. Didn't at start up or when coming off throttle. It DID do it this morning as previously described. I don't have my gauge hooked up right now so I will have to check that later. HOWEVER I have noticed that my IAC is reading 0 when at idle in park. If I give it gas the numbers go up. But not in park at idle. Car is running fine though, even when it does the bouncing thing it is running much better then before I did the fluid changes and increased my FP>

So let us table the bouncing RPM's till tomorrow and I can report back if it does it in the morning and so I can check my FP after I get home from work.

I suppose for the zero reading for IAC the first step is to do the IAC reset procedure on GNTTYPE.org.....trying to find it now...not having much luck. If that doesn't work...what after that?

*found the IAC procedure*

 

[WH1_T-Type]

Oh yeah, I was an IDIOT!!! I was TOLD by the guy that I bought the car from that the company he had do all the work for him custom burned him a chip...so instead of CHECKING to see if they had actually custom burned him one or if they had just ordered one from another company...I just went ahead and ordered a new TT chip. Yup....now I have two of them with the same basic settings. I am dumb. Lesson learned. Verify EVERYTHING.

 

[WH1_T-Type]

So I got the pump installed today.

I didn't notice that the pump came with a jumper wire to connect the pump to the old plugs coming from the harness. I went ahead and cut the old ends off and put new ones on, is this a problem? Car started and ran fine......

 

[Boost231]

shouldn't be a problem cutting it like that. as far as the IAC reading being at zero, you might have a bad IAC. someone will probley chime in here as i have never had a bad one.

 

[WH1_T-Type]

OK...I will investigate the IAC more once I am done with this.

Pump and tank are in. Car will NOT start unless there is a 30amp fuse in the main fuse block...anyone else have this problem? Car starts and runs fine once there is one in though.

 

[WH1_T-Type]

Pump and hotwire in. Gained 5 more lbs at WOT already without touching anything.

Only worried about that fuse now....thoughts?

 

[Steve V]

Pump and hotwire in. Gained 5 more lbs at WOT already without touching anything.

Only worried about that fuse now....thoughts?[/QUOT

The fuse in the hotwire harness?If so yes it has to be there. If you are talking about another fuse the which one?

The IAC can read zero,it needs to be adjusted. You will also have to adjust the TPS again.

You are talking about the wire harness in the tank? That should be fine.