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fuse 23 fuel pump+injectors

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garnetkid

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2006
Messages
41
A couple weeks ago I replaced my valve cover gaskets ( bit of a bear to do!!) I started the car and ran it for a couple minutes outside and then turned it off. half hour later, started it and headed out for a cruise night. Got three quarters up my 1000 ft driveway and it shut down and would not start. Coasted back down into the shop. I thought OK that's just like it did quite a few years ago when the fuel pump gave out and I replaced that. So I bought another fuel pump and installed it and that wouldn't turn on. Checked the fuse panel and #23 was blown so put in a new fuse and that blew. OK, so then I pulled the relay and it was leaking that sealant into the wire harness so I got a new on and cleaned the wire harness soaking the socket in lacquer thinner which did a good job. It still blew the fuse. Next I drained the rad so I could remove the botton rad hose to gain access to the oil pressure switch. I just unplugged it and the fuse blew as well. Now I am trying to understand the #3 injector wire possibility and where exactly is this wire and where is it shorting out. What is the color of the wire? I also noticed a wire that looks to be fused or attached to the exhaust manifold just behind the alternater support bracket? what is that wire for?? I am kindof stumped on this right now. I have owned the car since new. It is a 1987 Regal Turbo T. Picture is of the wire affixed to the manifold. Thanks for any recommendations. Leon
 

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Just an after thought and second guessing myself. Is it possible to pinch a wire installing those valve covers and not notice it???
 
Perhaps your fuel pump test connector (normally located somewhere behind the alternator) got moved around during your valve cover gasket replacement and ended up getting melted onto your exhaust manifold, causing a short. Caspers sells a pigtail to fix it. Fuel Pump Test Tap Splice - 1984 / 1985

Hope this helps...
 
that wire is the melted fuel pump test wire and thats your short
cut it off and put a female spade terminal on the end and then tape it up to the harness
 
Thank you pacecarta, so what you are saying is that wire is not really required? and it doesn't matter which side of the short that i cut it off just so long as I break its continuity? I don't know if my 82 year old hands will fit down there!!!
 
its useful for diagnosing and can be used for draining tank ,
it will come off header but may need a little help to break off the melted plastic

or cut it and move on
 
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