Gear Venders

[Brian Verson]

My trans in my 86 GN is smoked, according to Bowler Trans it's going to cost about $1850.00 to get it back right again or I can go roller for $2895.00.
I'm looking at a Gear Venders Under/Over Drive system for my Buick and was wondering if anyone in the group has gone this route yet and what there reaction is. I'm pushing about 500hp to the rear wheels and want it to last this time. I've got about 3500.00 in the trans now w/ a 911 Converter and a Billet Forward Drum. I want to know what this thing is all about before I spend the money. Thanks for listening

 

[PhilM]

When I round up some more $, I will be getting a TH400 GV unit. I really do miss going to shows and the track/highway without OD but I will NOT screw with the 200's anymore, especially at the cost for a properly build and reliable 2004r. You can get a 1000HP capable 400 done for <1000$... find a used GV for 12-1500$ and your still less than the 200 route and now you dont have to worry about it. I've been seeing a few GV units on ebay recently. The 400 interface is popular with RVs anyway so that's a plus.

The only downside is the extra weight, but that's nothing a little extra boost can't handle. I would also guess using it after 2nd for 2nd over would help a little in ET anyways. Probably not enough to offset the weight, but sure it helps.

Phil

 

[rtviper]

It is really an overdrive as you can never go lower then your 1st gear. Once you start out you can go 1st and over then 2nd and then 2nd and over etc etc. The units will handle excess of 2400 hp and will shift very fast, I have used them with a t-400 but they are expensive at around 1700 you install.

 

[DeltaT]

You should look into a built 4L80E. It's about the same price as a built TH400 and GV OD unit, and it's lighter than that pair, and it's completely programmable so you can have it mild until you put your foot in it and then it can be a beast.

Fits in the g-bodies with very little problem.

Jim

Pix of an 80E in g-body at my site, with notes: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html

 

[chris718]

that is a very nice sleeper .we just finished up an 87 chevy caprice 2dr with a 421 vortech scharged sbchevy engine with air to water intercooler.some of you buick fans dont understand the power of a forcefed v8

 

[rtviper]

chris I dont think any car enthusiest is unaware that more cubes has more power potential, except the ricers. Most turbo buick owners just like to preserve the cars the way they were manufactured to some degree. I think chows car has shown that, a force fed v8 will run fast all day long with much better reliability. But when they look under the hood of a v6 car that runs really quick it feels so good to hear the compliments while the v8 car should be quick.

 

[chris718]

that 10.01 et is a good example of the power potential of the little v6

 

[Brian Verson]

Hey since you are the trans guy. How about some input on the Gear Venders Over / Under Drive and the TH350 w Lockup Converter.

 

[rtviper]

with the gearvender overdrive I dont think you would need a lockup convertor. In overdrive you will reduce the rpm about 1k rpm. I hooked up the overdrive to a dimmer switch on the floor. The gearvender is only about 15 lbs. You replace the tailshaft of the 400 or 350 so the weight difference is minimal.

 

[PhilM]

How much power can a stock SBC shortblock handle? What about the Buick block?

What about a 'dinky' 3.0L 2JZ? What about Nase's tiny 4 banger in the low 7's?

Sure... big engines are always great ... I can't wait to get a Toyota and begin the phase out of this domestic BS. Just because there is displacement does not meant the potential exists as many ppl fooling with the Buicks easily realize. Most domestic production blocks are designed like garbage, they are designed to need repair which ultimately leads to GM having another sale, sooner. When you bring reliability into the equation then those 'ricers' have the edge by far. How many times at the track do you see 12/11 sec neons or something that are noticeably out of tune, but don't need towed away?

I think it is unfortunate that import persons get clumped into that novice category, regaurdless of the fact that many actually know what they're doing and are on the cutting edge of technology. There are knuckleheads on each side of the import/domestic line. It has taken me a long time to realize this and why I'm still fooling with domestic stuff... Don't get me wrong, my car is fun as heck to drive, but for the money and effort to make a weak block able to handle the power I want, I could have gotten much farther doing it to something else.

Sorry for my interjection...

You should just put a 400 on the front of the GV unit if your going to do it. That way, you will have a tranny that will live through any future mods you may do until you go PG. As for the 4L80, they are just too expensive when your all said and done with hard parts and the electronics to control it. Stick with something that is cheap to fix, easy to use, and is built like a tank. It is also a problem with transbraking a 4L80... I believe there is a person making them, but you can't order just a brake... he has some sort of proprietary 'buy the whole package' thing going on... that could be outdated though.


Phil

 

[rtviper]

phil are you really serious about the imports holding up better then a domestic? I was waiting for you to give us a lol. A small block chev will hold a lot of power and live. To bring up a 12 sec neon is not really representative of a motor with lots of power being reliable. Watch a sports compact race with nhra and see how many runs the imports make before they destruct. The toyota supra motor is durable but it was built just for that purpose and is why the car was over 50k new. It is still about cubes and the effort to run 7s in a 4 banger is a low 6sec car with a v8. Now match the weight of the 4 banger race car and that v8 would be in the 5s. The v8 will handle much more power then any import I have seen to this point with greater reliability. I dont know of any other motor other then a v8 that would get you into the 10s or 11s as easy as the buick or for the money. I want to hear about this other block you would have used to get where you want?

 

[TurboBuickSix]

When you bring reliability into the equation then those 'ricers' have the edge by far.
Phil

Yeah but they are still so slow I could break my motor,rebuild it, and still easily catch back up and win the race.:biggrin: anything is quick with $$,it boils down to one guys wallet v.s the other guys wallet.

Does the 4L80 E bolt to a BPO bolt pattern? I have one already in my 95 1 ton van,good info maybe I'll use that next,I don't run a brake anyhow.

 

[Ormand]

anything is quick with $$

As I remember it, the saying was that the only way to beat cubic inches is with cubic money! You get big power in a small engine with either real high rpm, or real high boost, or a combination, and neither of those is cheap. And neither of those makes torque,either. If you don't mind buying the gas for it, a 502 chebbie in a G body would give INSTANT throttle response, and could easily match most turbo engines running on pump gas, at least in street trim. And would be cheaper, too. But this ain't the board for that car....
Maybe the monte folks...

 

[bison]

I know this is off topic but i have seen a lot of buicks and chevys broken with way less power than it should have taken to break anything. Same for the imports. The $ on hand and the tuning abilites are what make cars go like hell and last. The buick has the most untapped power and can easily be cranked up reliably with the factory setup which is the most important thing to most people on this forum. The bang for the $ cant be beat. Anyway you seem to have spent a lot of $ on the 200-4R and it should have held up to your power levels. The 4L80E is a pain in the ass option dollar wise and install wise. The GV unit is strong and a little cheaper but you will still need to spend a lot more on a new converter. A heavily modifed 400 with a brake will still cost a good amount. Someone stated $1000, but i would guess more like $1700-1800 with a converter, shifter, and a replacement bell housing. If you dont plan on more power then i would have the 200 done again by one of the vendors on this site and save some $.