gen 7 distirbutor set up revisited

[norbs]

I have a question, trying to set up the gen 7 to the distributor. According to the instructions, you cut off 5 reluctors and leave the one closest to the rotor position. You then put the crank at 60 btdc drop the distributor in with the one tooth lined up to the pickup. Then you tighten the distributor down. Then turn back to tdc and the rotor should be at #1 cyl. The question is where does the 25 degree atdc cam sync adjustment come into play here???????????? I was told to put a allen set screw into the reluctor to adjust it, but to adust it to 0 or 25 atdc?

 

[V6RACER]

You will have to make changes in your configuration to make it work. I have the BS3, so I can't tell you the exact steps. Remember you are changing the ignition to an aftermarket setup. That means you do not have the DIS requirement of 24 atdc setting. Maybe Lonnie will chime in.

 

[norbs]

I emailed Lonnie, but i know he is busy.

 

[Otto J]

there is no more 25atdc wit ha dist. Your dist with the one tooth is now a cam signal only being used to let ecu know that the next crank signal is the number one signal,Your crank signal should be at 50* before tdc and your cam 60* btdc.

But rotor phasing is also very important,you must make sure rotor is exaclty pointing at the cap terminal at the timing you run under full boost
IE... mine is set at 27* this is why you may need to move the reluctor on the dist to get this all to line up correclty

 

[norbs]

Still a bit confused, but it looks like the reluctor tooth for the cam sensor, should be on the falling edge at 60 degree before btdc exactly for the cyl in the firing order before #1 cy, which would be #2 cyl. You would have to connect a timiing light to number 1 and phase the rotor in. You would have to drill a hole in the cap correct? Then rotate the distributor until the rotor lines up? Then reset the cam reluctor position with the set screw?

 

[Craig Smith]

60 degrees will be a good spot to line up the reluctor for the cam sync.

0 degrees would be a bad spot to line up the rotor. You want the rotor to be phased at whatever timing value you are running at peak torque. For you I would guess this around 24 degrees or so. Roll the motor to 25 degrees BTDC and make sure the rotor is lined up with the #1 plug terminal. A degree or two really won't be critical.

You may need to break the reluctor wheel free of the shaft to get the cam sync timing AND the rotor phase correct. That's where you have heard of the set screw trick. That or a tack weld will do the job.

 

[norbs]

Thanks for the info. Great to see Craig is still on this board for support

 

[V6RACER]

On the MSD distributor there are a couple of slots for the roll pin on the reluctor ring. I am going to try to set it up in the car and then pull it out and grind the reluctor tabs I do not use. I don't know if those other slots will help or not. I will probably just end up putting a set screw in it.

 

[bruce]

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Nice seeing you returning to your roots

 

[norbs]

I would think, it might not be a good idea to grind to much off the reluctor tabs. I think 1/8" should be enough?

 

[Dusty Bradford]

I ground mine all the way down. The only thing I could see it would effect would be the balance of the shaft but apparantly that's not an issue. Everyone I spoke with said grind them all the way down. You definately don't want any hint of a false signal.

 

[SPEEDSTAR]

Parts to do this

I have an old odd fire small size distributor in ex. shape and a unilite trigger set-up, could this work? I am thinking that seven of the windows could be covered and the eigth be used for the inj timing, the unilite can be phased where ever it needs to be and the base plate screwed down. Does the advance need to be soldered locked? I also have a Firepower ECID that uses a hall effect crank trigger and a locked dist. It has seven advance curves already programed in and seven rev limits that rotate cyls down, I not sure what the advance curves are ,I believe they are for a v-8 in the 32deg. to 40deg max. range, it also has a retard switch that retards all the curves by 5.6 degs. But still my question is about the old dist and the unilite. TIA Jeff