Getting rear built, do I need a Chrome Moly Pinion Yoke?

[NicksTurbo6]

OK, I am getting my non G80 rear in the GN built. I'm going with an Eaton posi, 30 spline axles, and I will also be replacing the driveshaft. Is it worth replacing the stock pinion yoke to a Moly one? Has anyone ever broken one?


Nick

 

[chopped39]

OK, I am getting my non G80 rear in the GN built. I'm going with an Eaton posi, 30 spline axles, and I will also be replacing the driveshaft. Is it worth replacing the stock pinion yoke to a Moly one? Has anyone ever broken one?


Nick

Get the yoke for the bigger 1350 ujoint . Cheap insurance. Strange makes custom shafts with your choice of yokes

 

[Evaddave 87gn]

It depends on the RWHP. Do you have a transbrake? Do you run slicks?

I believe the spicer 1350 is good to 650 HP

I had problems with twisting the splines in the trans yoke, so I upgraded to the billet unit, and I was not going to use the billet pinion yoke. But when I went with the 9" I decided to do all moly shaft and yokes.

I also went with strange. They can answer your question on yokes.....


Dave

 

[Mr.Spool]

all this stuff has horsepower ratings no guessing needed.my advise would be to overbuild it dont think for a second you cant break stuff on drag radials.be proactive on the replacement parts if you can.

 

[Nick Micale]

.... I will also be replacing the driveshaft. Is it worth replacing the stock pinion yoke to a Moly one? Has anyone ever broken one? Nick

Absolutely, over a short period of time in the 10's, I broke every part of the driveline!

 

[SuperCPA]

all this stuff has horsepower ratings no guessing needed.my advise would be to overbuild it dont think for a second you cant break stuff on drag radials.be proactive on the replacement parts if you can.

Get the yoke for the bigger 1350 ujoint . Cheap insurance. Strange makes custom shafts with your choice of yokes

Good advise on both counts. From my experience, if I build things to specifications beyond what is currently required, I am happier I did in the long run. Not just for peace of mind, safety and longevity, but also for possible future upgrades in power. The items you have selected are good choices. The stronger u-joints will compliment them well.

I learned the hard way many years ago how expensive having a inferior u-joint and yoke can be when it failed near the finish line. Although I had a safety hoop, the resulting vibration transferred to the transmission ripped apart the tail housing and dumped fluid all over the track. Aside from the embarassment of causing a really bad race delay for cleanup, it could have been a really bad situation if I lost control of the vehicle.

 

[NicksTurbo6]

My GN is a street car, might go to the track once or twice a year. No trans brake, no slicks, just drag radials. I have my mods listed in my sig. Tomorrow morning I will be calling Denny's and ordering a driveshaft with Molly yokes on both ends. I would rather over build it and have peace of mind...


Nick

 

[87gnguy]

OK, I am getting my non G80 rear in the GN built. I'm going with an Eaton posi, 30 spline axles, and I will also be replacing the driveshaft. Is it worth replacing the stock pinion yoke to a Moly one? Has anyone ever broken one?


Nick

YES! I broke mine on a dyno. After looking at the video from a different angle, I think that is what caused my whole catastrophe. There's a thread somewhere in here I started called Carnage at the Dyno. It took out my transmission, driveshaft, rear yoke, and maybe timing chain I found out later.... not sure on that though. I watched a video my friend's kid took from the side angle of the run and you can see the yoke snap then everything fall apart at about 6000 rpm. I would so recommend a new yoke if you're doing all that anyway. I got a forged yoke for 1350 U joints for about $90 from a local race shop. I think they are about the same price from Summit. My advice, spend the money