Glass blasting hood results

[corkatoa]

In case anybody was wondering about this process for paint removal...



My hood had a huge crack in the paint and when I started scraping, the surface rust never ended!! So I took it to a guy and had it glass blasted. Here are the results. (in between the pics of it bare and the priming, I took it to the local car wash and spent $10 pressure washing the media out of the bracing)

Wasn't cheap at $300(cdn), but saved me a lot of sanding. I block sanded the top with 220 for about 5 minutes and primed. It took the guy 2 1/2 hours. He said it was the thickest paint he had ever seen.

 

[S10xGN]

Looks good! Now, do yourself a favor and toss those rattle cans in the garbage. That stuff never really cures and any good 2k automotive paint over that as a substrate is asking for trouble...

 

[S10xGN]

F'ing double post. SOMEBODY FIX THIS CRAP!

 

[corkatoa]

I know, but it has been raining here for days, humidity is over 90%at all times. Didnt know what else to do at the time.
I live in the middle of nowhere and it is all I could grab at the only parts place we have. Won't be painted for another year probably. Removing that skiff of primer will be a lot easier than the 4 layers of paint that were on it.

Live and learn. Won't ever be a show car. Except for the doors!! (thanks again m233roller!!)

FYI I am contemplating putting my 85 engine into an s10.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

A suggestion: I/we use a product called "A Must For Rust". Get it at Lowes, HD, etc. I just bought a bottle for $8.
Once the surface is naked/clean, I mist a very lite coat on the part, scrub it in w/ a Scotch pad, let it dry. Do not let it puddle up.!
Clean surfaces will look a light gray color, and any rust pits will be black. The black is rust that's been converted.
It will protect the surface for up to a yr, in a dry storage.
When ready to prime, I hit it w/ the da/80 grit, degrease, prime. {Comes off as a dust.}
Actually, the product is a mild % of phosphoric acid.