Your setup looks very nice.
I can tell you though, if the motor is still a 231 or even 235 for that matter, you going to need either a high stall converter to get that turbo spooled fast, or you need to step down on the turbine housing size. But if the car is a 5 speed, it's going to take high rpms to launch the car hard.
Couple of questions and things I see first.
- Is that a -4 AN oil feed line or a -6?
If it's a -6, you need to step that down to a -4AN or the turbo will be over fed with oil and you could possibly experience some leaking issues.
- Is the oil return line a -10 AN size?
- I highly recommend, before you run this setup, that you rotate your PW46 wastegate away from the motor. The discharge does not need to blow directly onto your motor. Otherwise there is potential for a fire. Nothing like 1500* + exhaust temps blasting out of the wastegate directly onto your motor and fuel lines. Unless of course you plan on making a discharge pipe to route your wastegate exhaust back into your downpipe.
This turbo has a rating of 900 flywheel hp capability, however, with not only your setup, but also on the Buick V6 setups, we can not run the boost high enough to realistically attain this power level. So on Buick applications, I have been saying it can support roughly 845-860 flywheel hp maxed out at the boost levels we can run. (up to 32psi typically before we start to have head gasket issues)
On your setup, with the .96 A/R housing, your spool up is probably going to be in the mid to high 4000 range, being a journal bearing turbo. Running a smaller A/R will dramatically lower the spool time, if the car is a manual. If it's an automatic, then I would be looking to spec the converter to stall somewhere in the 4200 range to start, if running that housing. The .96 housing will give you the best flow possible, as it is the largest turbine housing we make for this turbo, but it is typically reserved for larger CI V6's or V8's under 400 CI.
Here are the part numbers that you need to know if you decide to change the turbine housing.
TH6865A is our .68 A/R housing for your turbo. Honestly, this is the housing I would have spec'd for this combo. Especially if it's going to be more of a street car with moderate boost levels. Moderate meaning 15-25psi.
TH8165A is our .81 A/R housing for your turbo. I would have spec'd this housing, if this were to be a track only car and you were looking to run the boost north of 25psi at all times.
TH9665A should be the turbine housing you have now. It should say .96 on the outside of the casting, just above the T4 inlet flange. The actual part number will be behind one of the turbine housing to chra clamps, cnc cut into the turbine housing itself.
If this were my car, I would order the TH6865A turbine housing and install it now. Keeping the .96 A/R housing for later if you plan on drag racing this car and running the turbo at close to maximum potential. I would also run some form of back pressure monitoring device, whether it be a simple home made boost gauge with a check valve, or a 0-100psi pressure sensor that feeds a Race pack or electronic boost gauge with memory. Our rule of thumb with back pressure to boost pressure is, once you've reached a 2:1 ratio of back pressure to boost pressure, you need to make a change to the combination and or turbo. (Ex: 60psi of back pressure measured just before the inlet of the turbine housing and 30psi of boost at the intake is the 2:1 ratio) This housing would be the most street friendly as well.
We sell all three of these housings for $229.00 each.
Hope some of this helps and sorry to ramble on so long.
Patrick
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