GNX REAR SEAT CROSS BRACE

[TIMINATOR]

I am going to put some sort WELD IN, behind the rear seat, cross brace on my GN. Pros and cons of the different types please: Tin man, original GNX, the later style GNX brace that doesn't require cutting out the stock brace that comes in the car, or whatever. It will be covered by the trunk liner, so it won't be visible anyway.
The car will prolly run mid 10s os so, but will never go to the track, nor will I ever do a roll bar either. It's going to be just a good handling, lowered, moderately fast street and mountain car. I will also box the "C" channel of the frame, and address a few other flex points also. The body and paint (redone recently) are near perfect, and I don't want to ripple the rear fenders or "C" pillar like what happened to my Chevelle. I am open to suggestions! Thanks in advance!
TIMINATOR

 

[TType85]

The flat metal style one works great, weld it in or bolt it in either way it is 100% worth it. I have the one Kenne Bell carried years ago, it looks similar to the tinman one.

 

[Silver Ghost]

Go to TURBO FARM facebook and look at the Chad Dickey designed 11 ga steel GNX style rear cross brace. It's a winner with plenty of installation instructions and support.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

 

[TurboTGuy]

I welded in the flat Tin Man one. Didn't have to cut anything.

Butt dyno tells me it helps with flex.

 

[GNONYX]

I installed this one from Kenne Bell many, many years ago
Kirban sell them somewhat similar:

1984 1985 1986 1987 Buick Regal Grand National Turbo T T-Type GNX GNX REAR SEAT BRACE #7169

www.kirbanperformance.com

I removed the rear seat, attached the brace drill matching holes and bolted
never had any issue, but it did helped the rear from being twisted from leaning downward from the right side.
Keep in mind my GN is all stock with some mods; see sig.
If you need more info of Kenne Bell's brace, I would have to look for his catalog for the actual photo

 

[~JM~]

Seen this one talked about lately: Facebook

I've not seen in person.

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

The one I got from Kenny-bell in the early’90’s has a piece of thicker metal spot welded to the brace where it bolts to the car for extra support.
I don’t know if the newer ones are made the same, but could definitely be added.

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

Seen this one talked about lately: Facebook

I've not seen in person.

I have the one pictured. Works perfectly.

 

[Sagecoach]

I bought some from Kirban years ago. bolted in easily. Don't know if he still sells them.

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

I am going to put some sort WELD IN, behind the rear seat, cross brace on my GN. Pros and cons of the different types please: Tin man, original GNX, the later style GNX brace that doesn't require cutting out the stock brace that comes in the car, or whatever. It will be covered by the trunk liner, so it won't be visible anyway.
The car will prolly run mid 10s os so, but will never go to the track, nor will I ever do a roll bar either. It's going to be just a good handling, lowered, moderately fast street and mountain car. I will also box the "C" channel of the frame, and address a few other flex points also. The body and paint (redone recently) are near perfect, and I don't want to ripple the rear fenders or "C" pillar like what happened to my Chevelle. I am open to suggestions! Thanks in advance!
TIMINATOR

Go to Turbofarm on Facebook. Get the Chad Dickey sells. Comes with instructions. Riveted and glued in . 1/4 inch steel plate. Have it in my car.

 

[Peacock]

Go to Turbofarm on Facebook. Get the Chad Dickey sells. Comes with instructions. Riveted and glued in . 1/4 inch steel plate. Have it in my car.

Ditto….it’s a seriously nice piece.

Though it’s not 1/4” plate. Closer to 1/8”.

 

[TIMINATOR]

I don't do social media. Can't see Facebook. My unpopular media views have been vindicated by Musk...

 

[turbobuick]

I put one in my Ttype and it really seemed to tighen it up plus my car has Ttops. Definitely a worth while upgrade. I have a Tinman one I bought 15 years ago and just put it in this fall. I was going to weld it in but then was concerned about weld splatter with a MIG, then I was going to TIG weld it but didnt want to deal with cleaning off the factory paint & undercoating, and I definitely wasn't taking the time to drill all those holes and nut and bolt it in either. I just used self tappers and it worked great! It took longer to get the back set out than the install lol! I may put a road race bar in the car and if I do I will tack it in but honestly after putting all the self tappers in I highly doubt its going anywhere.

 

[~JM~]

I don't do social media. Can't see Facebook. My unpopular media views have been vindicated by Musk...

Here is the FB info.

4 GNX BRACES READY TO SHIP
Chad Dickie
815 695 5290

Not a fan of FB either.

 

[TIMINATOR]

Well, life's been busy, and I haven't bought a rear seat brace yet. Has anyone tried the flat type vs the tube x type and have a comparison? A Shop? Or multiple car owner? I want the best the first time. I can see any bracing will help, but I would like some comparison if available please!
TIMINATOR

 

[Mr.Spool]

Well, life's been busy, and I haven't bought a rear seat brace yet. Has anyone tried the flat type vs the tube x type and have a comparison? A Shop? Or multiple car owner? I want the best the first time. I can see any bracing will help, but I would like some comparison if available please!
TIMINATOR

I've seen and driven multiple tube types.
What type of comparison are you looking for?
The t top cars will still flex and never drive as stiff as a hardtop car
to some no worries to others is a deal breaker.
It's just preference.
I've had hard top and t top cars both pull 1g of lateral acceleration and drive totally different.
In a straight line the hardtop car without a doubt shines.

 

[TType85]

Well, life's been busy, and I haven't bought a rear seat brace yet. Has anyone tried the flat type vs the tube x type and have a comparison? A Shop? Or multiple car owner? I want the best the first time. I can see any bracing will help, but I would like some comparison if available please!
TIMINATOR

No back to back comparisons that I have seen but I would think the flat one would be better because it can be bonded to the car in more than the few places you could do with the bars. I would also think it has more surface area to stop the twisting motion of the car than the little electrical conduit braces.

 

[TIMINATOR]

I have a hardtop car that will see mountain road duty. Looking for the stiffest system. I was leaning toward the flat, weld in type, but looking for input. Does anyone have a stronger flat type than the gnx unit?
TIMINATOR
Hi spool!

 

[hensleyt]

IMA bolting and bonding the flat type with a quality or name brand body bonder over welding