RmvBfrFlght
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2007
The rust is probably from the water condensation in the oil.
RemoveBeforeFlight
RemoveBeforeFlight
Going for round number 2 with the oil leaking possessed TB!
- Thread starter BARRACUDA1968
- Start date
BARRACUDA1968
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2011
I would bet your right. I'm hoping the 180 thermo helps out. I'll try that first and then eliminate catch can if need be.
I'm guessing the rust came first. Even oil with condensation in it is still pretty oily.
Last night when I was reading this, I was halfway wondering if your front seal leak wasn't really a leak. There's room between the leading edge of the seal and the casting to house a little bit of oil... If your fuel pump plate leak managed to fill that cavity up, it would dribble for a little while until all the oil was displaced.
Last night when I was reading this, I was halfway wondering if your front seal leak wasn't really a leak. There's room between the leading edge of the seal and the casting to house a little bit of oil... If your fuel pump plate leak managed to fill that cavity up, it would dribble for a little while until all the oil was displaced.
BARRACUDA1968
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2011
I had the same thoughts that's why did one thing at a time. First block off plate and drive, more leaks but not near as bad. Changed pan and drove. Much better and I thought I had it licked until I drove the car 45 miles and did some logging. Ran 19 pounds of boost all the way through 3rd gear. Put the car in the air, drips off bottom of balancer and wet pan, K member etc etc
I drove the car over 300 miles after fixing fuel block off plate so I pretty much knew the gig was up. The old seal was junk, good enough to keep oil in the motor under normal driving sort of but under boost no so much.
I'll have the car running tonight so we'll see how it goes.
On a fresh engine, boost shouldn't pressurize the crank case that much to go over a tipping point. Just for funzies, you might want to make sure your PCV circuit is passing air in only direction, and maybe do a leak down test (on a warm engine) just to establish a baseline.
BARRACUDA1968
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2011
Finished the motor today. Changed to a new PCV and bypassed the oil catch can. PCV passed the blow test and so did check valve. If I'm going to pressure the system to test it how much air pressure would it take to fail a good system? 15 psi 20 psi?
Motor runs 175 to 185 ish with new thermo.
Did the 20 minute reset chip drive and rolled in to boost a few times, nothing hairy but enough. Never had a wif of oil smell like before and I would have under the same conditions previously.
I had a moist valve cover drivers side when I got back from the breather grommet. Nothing off the breather itself. I have baffled push in grommets that suck. There's gota be a better way. Least of my worries at this point. I did change oil so maybe the head was a little full and got some splash? Who knows.
Bottom of motor is dry for the first time since I put it in which I'm happy about. Need to take the car for a serious ride before I host a celebration but the early indications indicate I made some progress.
Earl if I keep having issues then the leak down is the next logical step. I'll throw my hands up if thats the case because my engine builder is the real deal. I followed every instruction breaking the motor in. Didn't skimp on one single part when building the engine. But it is what it is.
Right now I'm optimistic.
Motor runs 175 to 185 ish with new thermo.
Did the 20 minute reset chip drive and rolled in to boost a few times, nothing hairy but enough. Never had a wif of oil smell like before and I would have under the same conditions previously.
I had a moist valve cover drivers side when I got back from the breather grommet. Nothing off the breather itself. I have baffled push in grommets that suck. There's gota be a better way. Least of my worries at this point. I did change oil so maybe the head was a little full and got some splash? Who knows.
Bottom of motor is dry for the first time since I put it in which I'm happy about. Need to take the car for a serious ride before I host a celebration but the early indications indicate I made some progress.
Earl if I keep having issues then the leak down is the next logical step. I'll throw my hands up if thats the case because my engine builder is the real deal. I followed every instruction breaking the motor in. Didn't skimp on one single part when building the engine. But it is what it is.
Right now I'm optimistic.
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The main reason I mentioned the leak down is because the rings are seated and it would be good to have a baseline for future troubleshooting.
Unless you had an odd hole that was leaking like hell, then that would have been a clue for crankcase overpressurization.
Unless you had an odd hole that was leaking like hell, then that would have been a clue for crankcase overpressurization.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
"I had a moist valve cover drivers side when I got back from the breather grommet. Nothing off the breather itself. I have baffled push in grommets that suck. There's gota be a better way."
Screw in breathers can/will eliminate the grommet issues...
Here's one.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ham-1132/overview/
Screw in breathers can/will eliminate the grommet issues...
Here's one.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ham-1132/overview/
BARRACUDA1968
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2011
Looks like a nice piece but unfortunately I have aftermarket valve covers that require a push in breather.
I'll think on a way to get it to seal better.
I'll think on a way to get it to seal better.
