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Gonna pull my hair out. Another no start

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matt921

Member
Joined
May 26, 2014
Messages
146
So I recently pulled my engine to rebuild the bottom end and do some porting as I started to get a knock figured it would be a perfect time. So I drove it into my back yard and pulled the engine. Yes it ran. I took the engine to my shop rebuilt it fresh spun crank new bearing so on. Got it all back together cleaned up, and stabbed the cam sensor the was I seen on vortexbuick dimple to the passenger fender at 25 atdc.

So i got it home and dropped it in. plugged in all my sensors grounds exhaust basic stuff I've done before. Topper her off with fluids and some zinc additive to be on the safe side. Cranked her over and no start. Had 45psi fuel pressure so I know I have fuel. I heard some injector clicking but no spark. So I thought maybe I stabbed the cas wrong triple checked even hooked the meter up and did the gnttype instructions tuned it clockwise then counter. tried again still no spark. I could smell fuel so i'm thinking i have injector pulse. checked fuses for emc coil/spark think its ccci .Just to be safe I took the module to two auto part store both tested fine. Hooked it back up nothing.checked for voltage at the pig tail had power on the two that were battery and a few others that had lower voltage. I just can't understand how I drove it in my back yard took it apart put it back together and now nothing. :-(. maybe someone can help me out
 
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Cam sensor can cause a no spark condition. Double and triple check the cam sensor adjustment. Engine should be at 25* after TDC (#1 cyl) window should aim toward #1 cyl, and check with voltmeter or caspers setting tool. (25* atdc is 1.45" past the timing mark....) HTH
 
Our cars have an electronic spark control module maybe it's bad or not connected also u might wanna check the crank sensor and make sure everything is connected worse case u may have a pinched wire or two check the harness completely good luck
 
One more thing make sure the orange wire near the battery is connected this one controls the ECM I forgot to connect mine a couple of times before after reseting
 
Wouldn't hurt to check the crank sensor adjustment.....although no crank signal will cut fuel and spark both. If you can confirm injector pulse, (noid light) that would rule out the crank sensor.
 
Typically you're right, but these cars aren't typical but touchy they are. After my build I had everything hooked up I thought, then I checked for fuel it was there, I checked for spark and had nothing. After a week or so of head scratching and google searching all my problem was the crank sensor I never plugged it in. Like you said couldn't hurt to check
 
Orange plug is connected I'm not that dumb. I did what you already said as I said in the first post already did the 25atdcr. cas can cause a no start. go turn yours out if adjustment and tell me it will start. I'll check injectors pulse tomorrow. I'm 100% it is as like I said I do smell fuel. and NO I do not have a leak.
 
norcal I know my crank is plugged in. I have had a issue with the green wire in the weather pack I checked that but it's good. I'm just sad I just want ny car back
 
not saying I havet any answers but you pretty much said what I already said in my first post by telling me how to do it. I have proven that cas can cause a no start i turned mine before and it wouldn't start turned it back wahbam started. so yes I went to my experience of that thinking that could be a issue
 
It's why we love cars. But at least your deal can't be as bad as what I did one time. I put a rubber plug in the main oil feed into the block, then forgot to remove it when I put the front cover back on. The car started up all right, but I quickly wished it wouldn't have.

You can see another thing I did one time in my avatar. That left a couple quarts of oil misted onto about nine miles of roadway. I seem to have a thing with oiling. "Oily to bed and oily to rise...."

This is the best help I can offer, to try to make you feel better.
 
lol that sucks man. Im sorry to hear that I hope its all fixed now. Ill figure it out I always do. I know its got to be something small that I am over looking.
 
i know its just a matter of time on my end. It sucks cause i love driving my t-type. But Colorado has been getting one nice day then snow then a nice day and ice storm. so i'm fighting day light and time. but ill get her figured out. i think is might be crank sensor cause i don't know if i'm getting 12v's to it, ill check after work when i get home.
 
I swapped my crank sensor I now have a pop pop situation so am now getting spark. but still no start
 
I had a similar problem & it turned out 1 wire that went from module to ecm had a faulty connection. I had to do a continuity test to find this problem out.
 
I got it started today readjust the cam sensor after swapping the crank sensor last night. It runs but it idles ruff as crap. It clears up when i rev it. I tried turning the cas a little and it helped clear the idle up and get the injector timing closer. But its still very jumpy. i thought maybe it was i had like 2 & 4 swapped swapped them made it worse. I have the order how it says on the coil and in the casper paper i got for the adapter for the module. Will double checking the gap on the crank sensor to the reluctor wheel help this? i know people say a credit cards width
 
Also i forgot to mention my blms are 128 .44v tps 19 iac when this is all going on so i have no clue what is going on. Also i removed my egr when i did the rebuild and blocked both the egr and the pipe on the intake,
 
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